I either hand baste or spray baste, I really would prefer the spray basting, but because of cost I don't use it often. When I hand baste, I baste about every 3".
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Originally Posted by Manalto
(Post 7298236)
Thanks for this. I've seen the wrap-it-around-a-board method before; I didn't realize that Sharon Shamber invented it. I'm going to try it; I like its compactness. One thing I did right, or at least according to her method, was the herringbone stitch, which I mistakenly called a zigzag stitch. 2 1/2" spacing seems tight, but the stability is probably needed for some projects. (I spaced my stitches 3 of Shrek's fingers apart.) She doesn't explain why you shouldn't quilt over the stitches. It seems so much easier to remove it at the end, rather than de-stabilize an area you're going to quilt. Do you know why?
I looked up DMC tatting thread and it comes in several weights. Do you know which weight would be good for this purpose? i am not confident in my FMQ to do SID by free motion quilting although I imagine experienced quilters do one block at a time and then move on. My way, you are moving the quilt a lot to do the SID but I like the results. Whatever works for you is acceptable! |
I'm going to try that method. In fact, last night I went out looking for an 8' folding table.
Maureen, is your avatar a variation of 'Storm at Sea'? |
Originally Posted by tessagin
(Post 7298011)
I baste using the Sharon Schamber method. I have an 8 ft. bench I can work on with plenty of space. Pretty quick after you get started.
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Originally Posted by Manalto
(Post 7303572)
Do you think it might be useful to get a piece of masonite cut for the top? It occurs to me all that needle action (especially in the hands of a newbie oaf) might scratch up the surface.
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Sharon states what she uses in weight. I pull the thread as I go.I have done Sharon's method and it's quite easy to quilt over the basting then pull the basting thread out. I haven't had a problem. What's nice is being able to baste then put it away if you can't get right to the quilting process.
Originally Posted by Manalto
(Post 7298236)
Thanks for this. I've seen the wrap-it-around-a-board method before; I didn't realize that Sharon Shamber invented it. I'm going to try it; I like its compactness. One thing I did right, or at least according to her method, was the herringbone stitch, which I mistakenly called a zigzag stitch. 2 1/2" spacing seems tight, but the stability is probably needed for some projects. (I spaced my stitches 3 of Shrek's fingers apart.) She doesn't explain why you shouldn't quilt over the stitches. It seems so much easier to remove it at the end, rather than de-stabilize an area you're going to quilt. Do you know why?
I looked up DMC tatting thread and it comes in several weights. Do you know which weight would be good for this purpose? |
Originally Posted by tessagin
(Post 7303644)
Sharon states what she uses in weight.
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Originally Posted by loisf
(Post 7298482)
I pin basted several quilts and will never, never, never do that again. I hate hand stitching, so that's out. I glue baste with Elmer's School Glue. It's fast, easy, cheap and I've never had a quilt "slip," nor have I ever had a pucker. I tape my backing to the floor, pulling it smooth and tight. I lay out the batting on the backing, cut it to size and fold back half at a time. Drizzle more glue, smooth out the batting, and then do the other half. Same process with the quilt top. Let dry over night, and you're ready to quilt. The glue never releases no matter how much the quilt is handled. Then I wash the quilt with plenty of water and it's perfect. My sewing machine never notices the glue and it never gums up because it's dry. I can't imagine why I'd ever do it any other way. For wallhangings that won't get washed, I use fusible batting.
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I am so [unprintable] that I first pin baste, using small curved safety pins with the snap-on plastic backs and a grapefruit spoon to lift the pin point, and then I baste with thread.
Someone once wrote that you need to be careful about using colored thread to baste a pale fabric, and I was able to prove them correct by having thread dye left when I pulled the basting stitches out. So much for using up my nearly-gone spools. |
Originally Posted by Lee in Richmond
(Post 7303713)
I am so [unprintable] that I first pin baste...
I'll bet your quilts are pucker free! (PS - I lived in Richmond and worked at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden.) I find it hard to believe that thread will bleed even if it doesn't get wet, but I shall err on the side of caution, especially since I have an abundance of ancient cheapo thread, a fringe benefit from all the machines I've accumulated. I guess I dodged a bullet when I used screaming orange (so I could easily spot it) on that mostly pale-blue quilt and didn't have a problem. |
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