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I have just started practicing using the freezer paper method. I like your suggestion feline fanatic and will try it.

I found that when you sew through the paper pattern it frequently obscures the fabrics and the added piece can easily shift and cause you to rip and resew. I am thinking that by using this technique you are actually seeing, sewing and less apt to make a mistake...not to mention that the pieces on the bias are less apt to shift around, seeing they are being held firm by the waxy surface of the freezer paper and I would think this would improve accuracy?

BTW..GREAT quilt feline fanatic!

I took a class on Paperless Paper Piecing and used the book "Painless Paper Piecing" by Marjorie Rhine. It was wonderful. (If you are using a copier make a 1" mark on your original pattern to use it as a control.)

The book shows how to make templates and to mark so the "pieces" are on the straight of grain. This was one of the most helpful classes I've taken. Love paper piecing!

From my first PP I have done it this way! And I always will! It's wonderful! Here is a link for you:
http://www.twiddletails.com/store/in...age=page&id=21
Enjoy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by katybob (Post 6953813)

I paper piece a lot and the freezer paper method is the only way I do it now. I never sew through paper. There are lots of tutorials on the internet, but this is the one that clicked for me: http://www.twiddletails.com/store/in...age=page&id=21

And I order 8-1/2 x 11 freezer paper from here: www.cjenkinscompany.com
Since it's flat instead of on a roll, I've never had a problem printing on it.

Yes to both of the above statements. This too is the only way I paper piece anymore. Removing the paper is way too tedious and time consuming for me. One hour to remove the paper from a 5" hexagon! No more of that! If you make the same block over and over, you can get up to 5 -7 uses from one piece of freezer paper. It depends on how many sections in the block and how many times it get's ironed before it won't stick any more to the fabric. With the freezer paper from cjenkins, make sure you iron the freezer paper to your pressing surface first before ironing it on your fabric. It needs to gather some lint and fuzz on it or it will be very difficult to remove from your block. Yes, you peel the freezer paper off after completing a block, but if you are gentle with the bias edges, it should be OK. I try to not have bias on the outside edges of the block, but sometimes you can't. I do only print on one paper at a time, so don't just stick a stack in your printer and hit start.

I fold the pattern over the edge of a coated card to get the fold lines on the pattern, instead of creasing with the seam ripper. I also use an open toe foot. You might need to move your needle over so you can have the right feed dogs under the seam allowance.

I use the freezer paper method all the time and love it. I create my pieces by sewing through the paper to create a sort of dotted line that folds back very easily. I sew through several layers at a time by stapling layers together and then stitching the whole stack at a time (6 or more). You can reuse the freezer paper templates so you don't need as many. When you remove there freezer paper, remove it in the order you sewed it. In other words start at one and peel in the direction of the numbers.

Our guild had a workshop one year and it is exactly what you are describing. My friend and I really love this method. You are exactly right that you can copy any pattern and it works the same. Great method as far as the two of us are concerned. Happy paper piecing!

Susan

Quote:

Originally Posted by QuiltnNan (Post 6953510)

i use the fold back method and really like it... but i just use copier paper. from time to time, i use glue stick on a section to keep the paper and sewn fabric aligned.

We have done this. It works great.
1. The woman who showed us how to do it used a card to fold the paper. I think the seam ripper scoring works better. The fold lines are straighter and more accurate.

2. We used good quality copy paper; any good typing paper will work.

3. Glue stick is what is used to adhere the copy paper to the fabric. Works slick. Paper pulls off easily and washes out of the finished product.

4. One of my friends used her pattern 20 times.

5. The add-a-quarter ruler is nice, but you don't need it. You can measure that seam with any ruler. There is also an add-an-eighth ruler for when you are doing really small stuff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basketman (Post 6954185)

here is the video that got me to thinking differently: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqMiC1_JdqQ. I strongly believe almost any pattern can be done this way...and seeing that the evolving block is supported with the freezer paper until it is all together...bias might not be that critical or am I looking at this the wrong way?

I'm sorry but this video is too confusing and it seems like she is not quite sure of what she is doing, it confused me.

someone mentioned glue stick and copy paper as another way to go...tried in this morning and it also worked like a charm! I scored the lines using one of those spiky metal wheels(?) and got a neat folded edge. I will likely never rip away that newsprint again... plus I am saving trees, thread and clean up time.