Help with Applique - tight inner curves
 

I'm about to start my first applique project. It's the Flower Garden by Kim McLean. Oh and it's BIG.

My plan is to hand applique. The technique I'd like to use is where you use a double layer of freezer paper and starch the seam allowance, then press the seam allowance into place.

I got my first piece ready - and thought I was doing well... BUT I clearly don't have the knack for tight inner curves. I cut into the seam allowance but when I starched and turned them over they frayed something horrible. Not much fabric is left to sew down. Not sure if you can see it in the photo (first time posting a picture with the new forum layout).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]332856[/ATTACH]

I've read about fray check and how you can apply this before cutting into the seam allowance. I've also heard that it yellows with age. Does the yellowing seep through into the front??? I'd hate to invest this amount of effort for it to be spoiled. Some other people recommend using a basting glue instead - given that it is water soluable.

I'm just not sure what I should do - and how I can get good tight inner curves without fraying that will last the test of time.

Appreciate any help that you can give me...

I think inner curves and valleys are harder than points.

You don't need a lot of fabric for the seam allowance, and it looks to me like you have enough. When you get to the inside part, try to make your stitches small and close - I use my thumb to hold the fabric down while I stitch the curve. I try to keep cuts into the seam allowance to a minimum, and I make the cuts so they don't quite go all the way to the turn under line. You could swipe a toothpick with some fabric glue to help make any stray ends go under, but if you may not need it.

If you're not confident you can do this, you could keep the freezer paper in the applique, glue the seam allowance down, applique it and then remove the paper after the block is finished. I cut into the back and pull it out...if it won't come out easily you can dampen the block to make it easier to remove the paper.

I hope this helps. Don't get discouraged - as you do more, the easier applique becomes.

Janet

One thing you can do, is (before you clip or turn) machine stitch just short of the seam/turn line (like a thread's width and with a very small stitch). The easiest way is to trace shape onto your fabric, then stitch, before cutting out your shape. Clip JUST to that stitching line; don't cut the stitches. Then when you turn, you'll just catch that stitching, within the turned seam. The stitching will give you a guide, on which to turn, and will also help keep the seam from fraying too badly. As you sew into the tight inward curve, take tiny stitches.

I've never had a problem with Fray Check yellowing BUT I don't generally use it, where it'll show. It does make the treated area just a tad stiffer.

I agree with Hinterland. I know it doesn't look like it, but there is still plenty of fabric in those curves for you to sew! Those parts of the applique will feel the least stress when the whole piece is sewn down - your stitching in the inner curves does not have to do anything but keep that little bit of edge tacked down.

I can't add much about the fray check or fabric glue as I have never used either, but I do pin pin pin when I have a tricky curve to sew!

Alison

I'm so glad you asked this question, Kiwiquilter. I have been struggling with the same thing. I have been basting, pressing and then using fusible web to catch the edges so it doesn't fray. I don't really like the stiffness of the fusible web but I was afraid it would fray.

I've not completed a quilt yet so I'm probably doing overkill but I want it to last.

Thanks for the tips.

When I get to a valley like yours, if I can't "cut in" a little more, I use the June Taylor fray block. It does not stiffen like fray check, but don't know about yellowing over time as my quilts are not that old yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEeir...3&feature=plcp

Do, please watch this tutorial! I was lucky to be pointed to it when I was learning to applique. Now I will never hand applique without the fusible! It can stay on and is easy to sew through where glues ( I tried) are not! I will use a drop of Fray-check after sewing if I need it! I also like the little bit of the 3 dimensional look the fusible gives!

Good luck!

Thanks for this question as the information is very helpful but sorry for your problem.

Theres a product out there called Sew Secure. Its not as stiff as Fray Check and does a wonderful job. Heres a link to a tutorial on using this product and the inner points.

http://erinrussek.typepad.com/one-pi...47e210252f970b

I use her method and it works well. Her quilts are stunning.

I found this video part 1 and 2 very helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axDBl...eature=related

Thanks so much for your advice.

I decided not to use the piece photographed for the main quilt, as I had put the fray stop glue on earlier - and it leached onto the front. I didn't realize how runny the fray stop was. I was worried that what I used would yellow and spoil my quilt top.

I've prepared another piece to practice on - the same shape. This time I cut only half way into the seam allowance. I also made sure that the seam allowance was a scant 1/4". When I starched the seam allowance and pressed to the wrong side - this time I started with the main parts. I left the inner curves to the last when I just did one "swish" over the top. Doing that didn't seem to cause as much damage as my first piece.

Rather than throw these 2 pieces out, I'm reusing them and am making a cover for my work diary.

Here's the progress I made last night:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]333029[/ATTACH]

When I was appliquing the inner curves, I more or less needle turned - and pinned it well into place. The stitches I did in the curves were closer together.

Not sure how it will hold up in the wash. Using it as a work diary - where it will see a lot of heavy use (and washing) should give me a good idea. :)

Through this process I had a few more questions.

I am disappointed with the thread I used on the shape on the left. I used one color - a purple - it shows up horribly on the pink. Should I change the color of the thread depending on what's on the fabric, e.g. should I have used pink on the pink edges?

Also - if you can't get a color match with the thread you are using (if it was a one color fabric) - do you go a fraction lighter or a fraction darker?

I like using silk thread, in neutral colors. That way I don't have to worry about color, and the thread is so fine it disappears. If you don't like using silk, a lightweight cotton thread (60 weight) will also work.

I think your practice pieces look great - and I wouldn't worry about the purple thread. No one else will see it like you do, anyway.

Janet

I tried the same method (freezer paper & starch) It looked as if your seam allowances were a little skimpy in the curves. The ones you finished look beautiful. I'm still trying to master different methods of applique...........back basting, traditional needle turn. You only get better with practice. Good luck!!!!

IF I am doing needle turn... I use the light or the dark silk thread... no colour... it blends very well... sorry no examples as it's been awhile.
Your work looks lovely and as we all know.... you are your own worst critic.....

FrayCheck gets HARD. I don't think you would be happy with it.