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GrammieJan 07-21-2015 09:14 PM

Help with binding
 
I would like to learn how to make a perfect machine sewn binding that finishes at about 3/8 to 1/2 inches wide on both sides. I watched several you tube videos, but still cannot get what I want. I always have to finish the back side by hand stitching in order to cover the stitch line from the initial sewing on the front side. I would like to SID from the front side and catch the edge of binding underneath. I use a 2 1/2 inch wide strip, folded double. Should I cut my strip 2 3/4" wide?
Thanks for your help.

Tartan 07-21-2015 09:48 PM

I cut my binding at 2-1/4 for 1/4 inch binding but find it impossible to get a straight line of stitching from the front to catch all of the back binding edge. I have tried pins, clips and dots of glue but I am never happy. If you use a fancy stitch it works better but not perfect.
If I want to machine stitch my bindings, I always use Charisma's Quick Machine Binding with flange tutorial here on QB. She gives the measurements for finished 1/4 inch binding with 1/8 inch flange that you stitch down from the front. If you match your thread to the backing it matches right in. If you wanted the binding to finish at 1/2 inch with a flange, you would change the measurements of your binding strips. I think it would work out to be a 2 inch strip for the flange colour and a 1-3/4 inch strip for the binding and they are sewn together and folded. Try a sample and see how you like it.

maviskw 07-22-2015 04:46 AM


Originally Posted by Tartan (Post 7264233)
I cut my binding at 2-1/4 for 1/4 inch binding but find it impossible to get a straight line of stitching from the front to catch all of the back binding edge. I have tried pins, clips and dots of glue but I am never happy.

Gluing the binding to the back works for me, but not dots of glue. I put a thin line of glue on the seam allowance of the quilt back, fold the binding over to cover the seam line by 1/8th inch and iron it down til the glue is dry. The corners need another drop or two in the folded sections. Then it takes about an hour to stitch in the ditch from the front. I very seldom have any sections that are not sewn.

I usually use 2 1/2in. width binding, but occasionally a narrower one.
I put the ironing board (folded) on the edge of the bed, lay the quilt on the bed, back side up, and work there. The bed holds the weight of the quilt so it is easier to work around the quilt.

coopah 07-22-2015 04:51 AM

Try the 2 3/4" strip on a small something...like a potholder and see how you like it. I don't show my quilts and finally decided to do machine stitching on the binding finish...so I finish it on the front rather than on the back. Not too many folks are going to look at or criticize any wobbles on the back.

ManiacQuilter2 07-22-2015 05:20 AM

It is near to impossible to sew thru so much bulk and get a perfectly straight stitch. You might want to Google "flange binding" because at least you can hide your stitches in the ditch that is created. I have always preferred doing the binding the old fashion way. It just looks neater and cleaner. I won Best of Show twice and many blue ribbons doing my binding that way.

ClairVoyantQuilter 07-22-2015 05:50 AM

I machine bind about half of my quilts. I make my strips 2.5", fold down the center and press. Then stitch it to the BACK side using a .25" seam allowance. Then take it to the ironing board and press up that seam, fold using clips to secure, then stitch down using an edge foot. I should point out, I have a Bernina with dual feed, and the dual feed edge stitch foot works similarly to a walkng foot. I'm extremely pleased with the outcome using this method. Though show quilts and scalloped edge quilts always get hand binding.

EasyPeezy 07-22-2015 08:12 AM

I have the same problem but I'd rather go over the missed sections than do the binding
by hand. I think there are two reasons why we don't reach the stitch line...either we
didn't stitch a straight 3/8" or we didn't trim our quilt properly. It happens.
If you have a lot of miss I would follow coopah's suggestion and cut the binding
a little wider. I've done it and it works better. Most of the time I forget. Oops. LOL
It also helps to do a running stitch along the edges of the quilt before applying
the binding. Do you use washable school glue when applying your binding?
It helps to sew straight because you don't have to struggle with pins, clips, etc.
I glue one side at a time.
I also make a better binding if I remember to make a test piece:-).
For example, a quilt with a piano key border is a lot thicker at the edge and
usually needs more than 2.5". The thickness of fabric and thread will also
make a difference.

tessagin 07-22-2015 08:58 AM

I use clips to hold it down whether hand stitching or machine stitching. Just move the clips along as you go.

Jingle 07-22-2015 09:46 AM

I use clips also. I think it is faster and easier with them. I still hand stitch inding to the back. I prefer that look.

Nammie to 7 07-22-2015 10:12 AM

Google "Happy Feet - quilt binding edition" This process uses foot #71 (Bernina). It is a flat fell foot, and is used to completely machine stitch the binding on. It works for me.

maminstl 07-22-2015 10:21 AM

I cut my binding 2 1/4 inches, do not iron it, just fold and sew it onto the front at 1/4 inch Then I press open the seam (again without pressing any fold) wrap to the back and press a little bit past the stitch line, then glue a thin bead all around and press. One of the things that helps get it on nice is to zigzag around the edge of your quilt before you begin - it makes a nice edge for the binding to hang on to. Lately, I've been using my edge joining, or stitch in the ditch foot, and if your machine will do it - i move the needle just a bit over to the right - 2"clicks" for me. That makes a nice stitching line just past the ditch, and will catch the back almost every time. If a spot gets missed, I just turn it over and fix it - never see it if your thread matches the binding. With practice, my bindings are looking better all the time - but practice is definitely required.

cmilton 07-22-2015 10:31 AM

I use a flat fell foot and 2 1/2 inch strips. It is slow but looks good. I sometimes use washable glue if I want it to go faster. the seam is 3/8 which works better than 1/4. when you fold the binding over it should barely cover the stitch line. Practice practice!

Latrinka 07-22-2015 10:49 AM

Lots of pressing, glue, and I use my blind hem foot.

GrammieJan 07-22-2015 03:51 PM

Thanks everyone for your good suggestions. I do have a Bernina and will check to see if I have that foot. But I usually use my Brother 1500. Also I need to use a wider strip, but I seem to always think 2 1/2 is enough until it is too late. My fault! I appreciate all of your replies. ~Janice

maviskw 07-23-2015 04:32 AM


Originally Posted by GrammieJan (Post 7264854)
Thanks everyone for your good suggestions. I do have a Bernina and will check to see if I have that foot. But I usually use my Brother 1500. Also I need to use a wider strip, but I seem to always think 2 1/2 is enough until it is too late. My fault! I appreciate all of your replies. ~Janice

2 1/2 is plenty if the quilt is trimmed and the binding glued to the back after being sewn to the front. Sometimes it doesn't even fill up the binding.

institches33 07-23-2015 06:04 AM

There is a gadget to help you - Martelli Zip Bind System. I purchased it at a show and was determined to learn to use it. There is a learning curve so be patient, but when you master it you will never do binding any other way. It's amazing! I can do perfect binding on a baby quilt in less than 1-1/2 hours. It stitches in the ditch from the top and aligns the binding on the back to stitch evenly.
The system is expensive but Martelli is having their semi-annual sale Aug 6-8 and it should be 50% off. The code for ordering is RL1507. The video is on utube - Martelli Zip Bind System & Stitch in the Ditch: Part 1. Hope this helps. If there is an easier way to do things I usually find it.

purplefiend 07-23-2015 11:16 AM

I cut my binding 2.5" wide. I sew it to the back first and then turn it over to the front and top stitch it down.My Pfaff Quilt Expression 4.2 has the IDT(built in walking foot).

gerideboer 07-23-2015 11:49 AM

I had never heard of that flange binding until I read about it here. I went to Christa's utube video and then looked at one by McCalls https://youtu.be/qcF_FIFeStY.. I love it .Looks so easy and beautiful.
Thanks,
Geri in Anchorage

GrammieJan 07-23-2015 01:52 PM


Originally Posted by institches33 (Post 7265305)
There is a gadget to help you - Martelli Zip Bind System. I purchased it at a show and was determined to learn to use it. There is a learning curve so be patient, but when you master it you will never do binding any other way. It's amazing! I can do perfect binding on a baby quilt in less than 1-1/2 hours. It stitches in the ditch from the top and aligns the binding on the back to stitch evenly.
The system is expensive but Martelli is having their semi-annual sale Aug 6-8 and it should be 50% off. The code for ordering is RL1507. The video is on utube - Martelli Zip Bind System & Stitch in the Ditch: Part 1. Hope this helps. If there is an easier way to do things I usually find it.


That sounds interesting. I will check it out. Thanks for the info.

MarleneC 07-23-2015 08:08 PM

[QUOTE=institches33;7265305]There is a gadget to help you - Martelli Zip Bind System. I purchased it at a show and was determined to learn to use it. There is a learning curve so be patient, but when you master it you will never do binding any other way. It's amazing! I can do perfect binding on a baby quilt in less than 1-1/2 hours. It stitches in the ditch from the top and aligns the binding on the back to stitch evenly)
A friend loaned me hers to use and I didn't like it. I tried using several times and finally gave up and just use my edge foot.

DOTTYMO 07-23-2015 11:24 PM

I have machined with and without flange binding. Personally I dislike the look on the back of the quilt where it shows a line of machine stitching on the binding. No matter what I use or colour match still feel the same. So go. Back to hand stitching.

GrammieJan 07-24-2015 12:17 PM


Originally Posted by purplefiend (Post 7265606)
I cut my binding 2.5" wide. I sew it to the back first and then turn it over to the front and top stitch it down.My Pfaff Quilt Expression 4.2 has the IDT(built in walking foot).

Do you sew to the back using a 1/4 inch seam? I think that would be my answer, and then I would have enough width on the front side to suit me.
The stitching on the back would show, but like someone said...the stitching over the whole quilt shows so..no problem.

ukdame 08-13-2015 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by purplefiend (Post 7265606)
I cut my binding 2.5" wide. I sew it to the back first and then turn it over to the front and top stitch it down.My Pfaff Quilt Expression 4.2 has the IDT(built in walking foot).

This is how I do it also 2 1/2 inch wide folded in half. I do no hand sewing as my neuropathy too bad now.
As long as you use matching top color thread and one in bobbin that will blend in to the underside of the quilt. Personally I think they will hild up better when washed too.

Skyangel 08-17-2015 04:14 PM

After years of trying the edge-stitching foot and moving my needle over, and sticking it down with wash-away wonder tape to keep it in place I was still not happy with the result. I have just learned a new technique using a flat felling foot (used for the double-needle seem on jeans). I sew it to the back, then use this foot to top stitch it down on the front. It has a deep groove underneath for the binding to ride when I sew it down. I use the 8mm felling foot for my Bernina (#71) and cut my strips at 2". I got a decent finish my first try without practice.

I found this technique on a blog and all I can cay is THANK YOU to the bloger:

http://awomanaday.com/2013/01/17/hap...nding-edition/


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