Help with machine binding
 

I'm so behind on putting binding on my quilts that I've decided to try putting them on with my machine, but I have several questions.

1. Do I sew the binding on the front or the back? (I've done both.)
2. When I get ready to fold the binding over the raw edge of the quilt, how do I figure out how to align so the stitching doesn't show very much? (it usually looks good on one side but a little off on the other.)
3. Should I use a straight stitch or a zig-zag stitch? (I've done both, but not sure which is better.)
4. Is there an easier way? I'm open to any easy suggestions.

All the quilts are donations, but I'd like them to look nice for the recipients.
Thanks in advance.

dee

Dee, I can't offer any suggestions but I'll be watching this thread. Hubby and I had quite the discussion just a day or so ago as I've been finishing up this project for his Aunt Debbie. I don't like the hand work, I'm super slow at it, and it is increasingly difficult with my vision issue, but so far the machine sew on front, fold over to the back and blind stitch (complete with continuous mitered binding) is my preferred finish.

I told him some of the other ways to do it, but also that I've never been really happy with my workmanship. I've seen other people who do a fantastic job, but as I say, it does not rank high in my skill set...

Hadn't thought about the blind stitch! Thanks for the suggestion, but do you stitch on the front or the back?

I make the double fold continuous bias binding, machine sew on the front, and then flip to the back and blind stitch by hand. Among other benefits, doing it from the front typically gives the better mitered corner, you can make up any issues on the bank.

I don't cut off my backing until all the quilting is done and the binding is on, then I use the stitch line as my guide for how high to trim the remainder. My typical binding cut is wider than most, I generally start at 3" for a twin or queen sized project and I've gone up from there. Cutting at 3.5" today! I think most?? people cut around 2.5" and I know a few that like 2.25".

One of the things I've learned from board members is I no longer press my bindings in half before putting on. If I have to store them for awhile (it can often be years before the poor tops get quilted/finished), I wrap them around a piece of cardboard -- which also lets me measure it pretty well (just count wraps around the length of cardboard, which I typically cut at 18" so one full wrap is a yard). I soft fold them together when I pin the binding to the front of the quilt. By not pressing them, (a) I save a bunch of time and I happen to hate ironing, and (b) it allows for a better edge to allow for the thickness of the batting and folding the fabric.

I do most of my bindings by machine. Most of my quilts are meant to by used, washed, and dried. I use my walking foot a lot of the time. I stitch the binding to the back using a 1/4 inch seam (I cut my binding 2.5 inches and fold in half) then I pull to the front (most of the time, I don't even pin) and try and get the fold just a little bit past the stitch line from attaching the binding to the back. And I use a serpentine stitch. On my Bernina, I have a couple of stitches that are serpentine...and I adjust the length and width of the stitch until I get something I like. It has been a while since I finished a quilt...but I did find a note that was attached to my machine that said I used either stitch 1317 with adjusted width of 3.0 and length of 7.2 or stitch 4 adjusted to width of 2.5 and length of 1.10. The stitch just makes a gentle curving. It takes a little bit of practice and experimenting to get to look fine. I usually line up the edge of the fold with the inner left side of my walking foot and most of the time, it aligns fairly well on both the front and back. The corners can be a bit tricky to get to line up so you don't see the stitching on the backing but now I have mostly gotten the hang of it. I do stop about 1/4 inch from the corner when making that mitered corner, fold the diagonal and start stitching down the new side. Not all machines have a serpentine like stitch and I would probably use a zig-zag

I've tried machine binding and never happy with the results. Didn't like the results since I was never able to hide the stitching when I flipped it over. Now I just sew the binding on the front and flip to the back. Just gives a small pop of color on the edge of the quilt. If I want a larger "pop of color" I sew on the back and flip to the front. I like hand sewing the binding down. Last part of the construction process until it gets tossed into the washer/drier and then out the door.

Sew the binding down any way you want. As Karen Brown says, "just get it done!"

Thanks for the info! Everyone has given me something to think about! I appreciate each of you for sharing your ideas!

I don't usually machine bind, but when I do, I make a continuous bias binding, attach it to the back, fold it to the front, and straight stich as close to the edge as possible. I then go back over that stitching with a decorative stitch.

This is more or less how I used to do my machine binding. I've done
so many that now I don't even bother with the glue. I do it by feel.
https://blog.lellaboutique.com/2020/...quilt-binding/

I do mine just like that too, also skipping the glue! Sometimes I sew to the front and hand stitch. I don't mind hand stitching. It's just a mood thing.

I sew mine to front first, because I can better guarantee that that looks better. I have tried many methods for getting it to flip to back, but honestly, it is never perfect and never show quality. if you want it more perfect, then using glue is the best option. you can pull the binding just past the initial stitch line, put just a small line of elmers school glue (only do a few inches at a time), then press that section of binding with a hot dry iron. continue with that all the way around the quilt. it is indeed time consuming, but you don't have to worry about "catching" the binding while you are sitting at the machine.
If I am too lazy to do the glue method, then I will use wonder clips (pins work, too, or any kind of binding clips). I clip or pin no more than the length of one side, keeping the pins close together. I stitch with the top of the quilt up, just in the ditch of the binding. I do it this way, again, so the front at least looks nice. Then I just hope and pray that it all catches on the back. The more I do it, the better it gets, but I still usually end up with a few spots where the stitching drifted and doesnt catch the binding. When that happens, I unstitch about 1/2 inch on either side of the blooper, pull it down tighter, re pin/clip and stitch it again.
Like i said, it never looks perfect on the back, but the front looks just fine!

I second the flange binding method, once I tried it I have never gone back It takes longer to make the binding, but once it's made it goes on lightning fast, but it is a little bit wider than traditional binding and will cut off any points. Now I always add at least a small border to all of my quilts so I don't have to worry about it.

The last time I had to use a traditional binding I did a double fold straight-cut binding, attached by machine to the back, and I used one of my decorative stitches in a complimentary thread to attach the binding to the front. I will use it again, but I need to experiment with it more. The stitch I used had flowers and loops on it, and the binding ruffled a little after being washed for the first time, since the stitching along the edge wasn't consistent.

I do all machine bindings. I sew my folded binding to the back of the quilt, and turn it to the front. Then I topstitch very close to the edge. I miter the corners as I come to them.

It takes practice and experimentation to find the right width of strip to cut and the right seam allowance, and how to make a pretty turn so the binding looks good on the front. Don't be discouraged if you need to rip and redo sections when you first start.

Here is a link to Jordan Fabrics tutorial on binding. It was very helpful to me. Two things that I do that vary a bit from her is: 1.-Where she folds the binding down after the 45 degree fold, I lay a long pin under that top edge fold and to make sure it is aligned straight with the top of the quilt and pin in place. (read that tip someplace and makes all the difference for me) and 2 - when she finger presses the binding along the seam line where she has sewn it to the quilt, I take it to the ironing board and press the binding away from the quilt with an iron, much like what you do when pressing to the "dark side". I think I saw that tip in one of her videos where she uses an iron to press the binding after sewing it on. If using that method, no need to iron in half before sewing, just align edges as you fold and sew, the pressing after will take care of the fold. I also cut my bindings 2 1/4 inch and usually serge the edges of the quilt before adding binding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQgjp4Upt8w&t=844s

https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...s-t310370.html
I bind my quilts using the quilt top, or sometimes the bottom (minky) folded forward. I made an illustrated tutorial!

This is the technique I use also for machine binding. Rather than glue, I use Wonder Clips as I work around the quilt. I use a Stitch in the Ditch foot on my Bernina 10D which keeps me accurate. When I get to the corners, I use a long pin to secure the fold until I drop my needle to secure the binding.

I agree with Tartan in that matching your thread to each side is essential when machine binding. You will never be able to have straight perfect lines on each side of he quilt, so it's better if the stitches on the back blend in with the material you have used.

I prefer to use bias binding - I baste the raw edges together - instead of ironing the strips in half. That crease line is "off" as the fabric is wrapped around the edge of the quilt sandwich. Gluing might work - I found that the edges of the binding tended to creep before I secured them together.

When stopping stitching before mitering the corners - 1/4 inch is only for when one has a 1/4 inch seam allowance. If wider or narrower, use that seam allowance for the stopping point.

To the original poster - I think any of the ways you have done it is okay. Just what you prefer to do.

It does seem that there is more than one "right" way to bind a quilt.

Practicing with scraps that are similar to the real thing is helpful.

Thank you everyone for the tips. For my quilts, I think I still prefer, machine stitch to the top then hand sew to the back. But, I have a lot of fat quarter size machine quilting practice sandwiches that I may bind to use as dog mats. Perfect to try new binding methods!

I can never get the back stitching to look right when I try to machine bind. I sew on the right side then hand stitch the back. I have no trouble with mitered corners, but I don't like the way the stitching looks on the back when I try to catch it. I'm going to look at some of these links, thanks.

GREAT ! Very clear instructions & photos! Thanks

Here's one more method... Stitch the binding onto the front. Roll it to the back and glue only the corners in place. Then on the front of the quilt, stitch-in-the-ditch right next to the binding. Use thread that matches the quilt front on top, and thread that matches the binding on the bobbin. This looks better than any machine binding method I've tried.

Me too! I try and get thread that matches each side closely which sometimes means different in top and bottom!

Takes me about 2 hours to do a generous lap - just finished one yesterday 70 x 70.