Help with Metalic Thread
I am trying to do some thread painting with metalic thread and the thread keeps breaking, and the thread seems to be pushed down into the fabric. I am sure I have tension issues, but up or down? Also, I saw a post at one time that a lady was telling the needle size/type to use and what worked best for the bobbin thread. Please, I need help!!! I don't have a lot of patience for playing. Or rethreading!! Thinking about doing it by hand, it is that frustrating to me!!!!
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I recently saw a Fons and Porter show, and a man, Eric something, was talking about thread. He mentioned metallic thread and said that since it was a flat thread that you had to have the spool standing up, not parallel to the machine. How is your thread positioned? If it's laying down, it might help to bring the spool up. Hth, Gina
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Spool of thread should be standing up; I put mine in a coffee cup and up and over the machine. Make sure it doesn't get close to the take up wheel or it could get tangled. You can also use Microtec needles too those will help. Go to emblibrary.com to see their videos. I'd try like a size 90 needle,
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Ive also been using metallic thread to decorate some bug jars for my daughters quilt. I have put a thin layer of fleece batting on the back side of the jars for 3D effect But I think it is also working somewhat as a stabalizer for all the thread work and quilting since I havent yet pieced them together or sandwhiched it yet I started using a 90/14 heavy duty needle it worked great, Im using the spool up and down, supreme slider and I believe my feed dogs are still up because the slider covers them and I think when you lower them you start to have more issues with your machine make sure the thread isnt getting caught on something along the path I keep my spools on a stand slightly to the side/back of my machine I hope I could help.
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I also just read that metallica or metafil needles have a nonstick coating in the eye to reduce friction with metallic threads, but topstitch needles are great also because they have an eye that is flatter across the top helps to prevent fraying and keeps glitzy threads from curling and breaking - Libby Lehman.
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Thank you for all the quick responses. I did have the thread laying paralell, but stood it up. My Janome has a spot for that, but maybe I will try my self standing thread holder. I am also going to go get some different needles. I knew I had seen something about metalic threads.. Now I remember, I have the show taped witht he guy using the metalic threads!! I will pop that up and watch it tonight!! Thank goodness for the DirecTV recording system!!
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Originally Posted by mike'sgirl
(Post 6155700)
I recently saw a Fons and Porter show, and a man, Eric something, was talking about thread. He mentioned metallic thread and said that since it was a flat thread that you had to have the spool standing up, not parallel to the machine. How is your thread positioned? If it's laying down, it might help to bring the spool up. Hth, Gina
BTW Metallic needles and topstitch needles are pretty much identical. Long eye is the important part |
I use metallic threads in an upright position; Metallic, Metafil, or Metallica needles size 90/14 (they all have a longer, smoother eye, but I prefer Schmetz); tension at 2 or 3; and stitch length at 2.5 to 3. Metallic needles are smoother than topstitch needles, thus reducing the chances of breaking even further. Once I settled on these settings, they have worked for me perfectly ever since. :)
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The only thing I would add to the explanation is a thread stand behind the machine!!!
Originally Posted by ghostrider
(Post 6155879)
I use metallic threads in an upright position; Metallic, Metafil, or Metallica needles size 90/14 (they all have a longer, smoother eye, but I prefer Schmetz); tension at 2 or 3; and stitch length at 2.5 to 3. Metallic needles are smoother than topstitch needles, thus reducing the chances of breaking even further. Once I settled on these settings, they have worked for me perfectly ever since. :)
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by mike'sgirl
(Post 6155700)
I recently saw a Fons and Porter show, and a man, Eric something, was talking about thread. He mentioned metallic thread and said that since it was a flat thread that you had to have the spool standing up, not parallel to the machine. How is your thread positioned? If it's laying down, it might help to bring the spool up. Hth, Gina
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Originally Posted by grammysharon
(Post 6156067)
The only thing I would add to the explanation is a thread stand behind the machine!!!
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Okay - metallic thread gets warm feeding through all the places it goes on the machine and then it stretches and breaks. So I've been told to keep the spool of thread in a coffee mug a bit behind the machine. Make sure you are using a metallic thread needle and go slow. Also, if your thread is old it might break more easily. Hope this helps.
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If the thread is not cross wound, you should not be putting it on a thread stand or in a coffee mug behind the machine. Stack wound threads need to feed off the side of the spool to keep them from twisting. A metallic needle helps a whole bunch too.
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What I found works best for ME with metallic thread is slowing the machine
speed down as much as you can, and using a SHARP large eye needle. The large eye needles have a deeper "groove" for the metallic thread "glide" through. At least this is what I have recently learned from watching a Quilting Arts program on PBS and it was Libby Lehman who discussed the different needles and machine feet etc. I have also heard that putting the metallic thread in the freezer for about 15 minutes helps, but I have not tried this yet. |
The other needle that works well with metallic thread is a top stitching needle. It has a longer eye and a longer grove. Whenever I use metallic thread in my embroidery machine I use a top stitching needle now - works great.
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Only place to buy in town is WalMart and they didn't have any top stitching or metalic needles. I bought a pkg of titanium needles, cause it said they help with thread breakage. It took longer to break!! But it still broke :( So maybe the heat thing IS part of the problem. Maybe an auxiliary cooling system on the thread path? LOL I am going to keep working on it. I usually give up by now. NOT THIS TIME. Thank you for all the great tips.
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A Topstitch needle is pretty much the same thing as a Sharp Large Eye needle.
I usually buying Organ needles from Allstitch.net because I can get them in bulk (by the 100). I ALMOST only use a sharp large eye needle or the titanium sharp large eye. For me I have found that this is a good needle and I have far less issues with them than I do any other style of needle. Just my personal preferences though. I know some people may not agree with me, but this is what I found with all my trial and errors and 6 years of working with my home embroidery machines.
Originally Posted by eparys
(Post 6157243)
The other needle that works well with metallic thread is a top stitching needle. It has a longer eye and a longer grove. Whenever I use metallic thread in my embroidery machine I use a top stitching needle now - works great.
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Thank you so much for all the help. I finished my thread painting, and it came out nice. I found that the titanium needle, very loose top tension, and a s l o w speed helped a lot. For some reason, the blue, which was also the first color I chose to do, was the worst. The gold and the red went quite smoothly, with the above suggestions. I am going to continue to work on this art and see if I can't master it. LOL Thank you so much for all the assistance. I knew I could count on you guys!!
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