I did use some poly batting I got on sale. I'll switch to the better quality and see what happens. Thanks!

Thanks for the advice. I don't mind spending the same on charity and non-charity quilts. I just can't afford to pay anyone to quilt any of my quilts! LOL

I'll check that out! Thanks!

Do you have a walking foot for your machine? That would help and they are reasonable on ebay.

And I thought taping the backing to the surface underneath would solve all problems! Of course, pinning, also.
I am anxious to see what answers the group comes up with!

I found a new tutorial last night. It suggested adding a 18" x 20" acrylic extender to the machine. My machine does sit on a table. Does anyone else use one of these extenders?

Schoolmarm,

I really like this tutorial for hand basting that might address your concerns. I've bookmarked it myself; haven't tried it, but will be using this method when I next sandwich and baste.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhwNylePFAA

Make a small quilt first...top...batting...backing...maybe 12" inches square...practice with adjusting tention until you get a perfect stitch on each side...it could be the thickness ... a walking foot would help.
I also make lap quilts and I start my quilting in the center and work outward that helps with keeping it straight without puckering too. I use a walking foot and it works for me.

There are a number of good books on machine quilting. Harriet Hargrave's is really good, and I have another "Bible" called Quilting in Sections. Hargrave says to use masking tape all around your backing.

With your Trip around the World quilt, I think going diagonally is best. Use the walking foot and don't pull or push. Just let the machine move on its own while you hold the quilt flat. Start at one corner and work your way to the other. You may need to put up with a few puckers at first. After the quilt is washed, they may not show anyway.

Are you using cotton batting with cotton back? Some people swear you need to use cotton thread, too, but some don't. It takes practice. Don't be too critical - you will get the hang of it after a while.

I HEARD YOU CAN GET FUSABLE BATTING IN CONNECTING TREADS. HOW ABOUT TRYING THAT. I HAVEN'T USED IT OR SEEN IT YET.

I second the suggestion about the presser foot pressure.

I swear by the Supreme Slider. It's a teflon sheet that creates a slick surface under your quilt to reduce drag. Some have had trouble with them, but I love mine. You can't use a walking foot with it, however.

http://www.softexpressions.com/softw...SewingMach.php

A folding sewing board can be a big help if you do not have a large flat surface. I put it on the bed and proceed as you all have suggested. It works.

My method is to put backing on a smooth floor & use masking tap around the edges (do not stretch) just lay flat with no wrinkles - lay batting over that & again smooth out & tape to the backing fabric or to the floor (do not stretch) - lay quilt top over that & check for squareness...smooth out & tape it to batting, backing or floor (whatever is under edge) - safety pin (quilting pins with the bend in the center) starting in the center & work in a circle ever 3 to 4 inches between pins (a lot of pins are key) - when complete trim edges to quilt top (maintaining the squareness) - now start quilting using a walking foot & be sure the pressure is properly set (actually proper pressure/tension looks & feels kind of loose) figure what your longest "run" will be (stitch in the ditch or across the ditches) & start with the longest runs & then go to second longest, etc. - the only time I have ever got "gathers" is when I crossed the first "long runs" with a secondary run (only happened a few times) - the key is a lot of pins very close & proper tension on the walking foot - good luck!

Well Schoolmarm, this is an on-going debate, but I spray baste and have for at least 120 for my 140 quilts made. When I first learned to quilt the pinning drove me mad so I tried spray basting and haven't pinned since. It took some practice but the results are so superior to pinning. No puckers at all. I really think pinning is carried over from when quilts were hand quilted because the puckers could be smoothed out in an "as-you-go" method. The advent of machine quilting calls for something different and spray basting works for me. I can spray baste a king quilt in less than an hour by myself on my king size bed, and no pins to get in the way of quilting.

I've only done a few quilts, but like others have stated, since I've started taping my backing down, I've had better results. I use masking tape on all four sides of the backing, taping one side down then pulling the fabric taut and taping the opposite side down. Then I move to the sides and pull each side taut before taping down. Then I lay the batting and smooth starting from the center. I then lay the top on the bottom layers and once again smooth from the center. I haven't tried taping each layer, but did have that recommended to me. I have used both pins and spray basting and had no troubles since I started this way. Before when I just hand-smoothed the layers, I did have puckering.

Thanks for mentioning that donated quilts shouldn't have spray basting. I never thought of that and this is something I really want to start participating in.

Good luck!! You'll get it!

That would be my suggestion to start in the center and work out each way.

I find if I use a 100% cotton batting there is less puckering on the back.

Yes, I have an acrilic "extender table" that fits around the sewing arm of my Bernina, and it's been great. (I saw it at a New Jersey quilt show and ordered it from a quilting supply store that was exhibiting there.) In addition, when quilting a bed quilt, I move my machine so I have a table behind the machine to extend the support area further and avoid the drop and drag of the part already sewn/quilted. If necessary, I also add a small table to my left to support more of the quilt. If this isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to take a picture.
Also, in regard to pinning, I once saw Alex Anderson suggest using a grapefruit spoon with safety pins, to close the pins. It's a great help for my fingers!

http://inspiredbykristal.wordpress.c...pray-adhesive/

I use 505 frequently on quilts on my longarm if I have a floppy side border or to hold the bottom border down to the batting after I unpin it from the leader. I remember reading somewhere that the National Quilt Museum uses 505 when repairing their antique quilts because after 6 months (with no washing) it is gone completely, leaving no residue. I would think that if you used the 505 and washed the quilt after it was bound, you would not endanger anyone with the chemicals.

I hand baste the quilt into5 sections =center and corners Because I quilt on a treadle I found that if I start quilting my center section out towards the corners I have no puckers Altho I've been told this is the wrong way it works for me but only on my treadle Go figure

One tip I learned (almost too late) is to begin quilting on the quilt sandwich in the center and sew with a walking foot to the edge; THEN, return to the center and sew out to another edge; repeat returning to the center for the last two edges. Then I keep smoothing and work within the quarter sections using a FMQ foot with dogs down. This has eliminated puckers for me (I spray baste, though, and pin where it seems necessary using quilting safety pins).

I lay the back smooth (but not taut) on a table, then add the batting, smooth it out and then add the (pressed) top. I took a little class that suggested putting a marble under the sandwich and rolling it to allow an Avery Dennison Micro-Fastener to be used every 4 inches. The micro-fasteners are small enough to hold the sandwich firmly together. The marble is low enough so as to not disturb the sandwich. I only had one small pucker that I could steam out. (You can get the marbles in a jar in the plant section of Michaels.) Also, does your Necchi have an addjustment for the bottom tension? I thought the one that I wore out had such an adjutment. Hope this helps. (Micro-Fasteners are available at Amazon.)

Smoothing outward with every seam is very important.

I was taught to tape the back taut, then tape the batting and then tape the top down. Then I start pinning in the center and work towards outside edges. I've also used very large binder clips on the edges of the tables instead of tape. Both have worked really well. I also start quilting in the center and work my way out.

I purchased safety pins from the dry cleaners and put them all over the quilt from the middle out checking constantly for puckers on back and front before I put the next pin in. It is a little time consuming but prevents puckers.

I too had the same problem and couldn't afford to have my quilts quilted. It is time consuming, but whenever I get a quilt ready to quilt on my domestic machine I use Sharon Schamber's method of basting a quilt together - no puckers whatsoever! I do this basting while watching TV and have the pieces on the coffee table in front of me. She has a video on this method using pieces of baseboard.

I sympathise with you. It is so frustrating. It sounds like you are doing the right things but I would suggest you pin closer together. I had similar problems when I started and if I was using a polyester batting the fabric slid around much more so I needed to pin closer to keep that from happening and I quilt in a grid like fashion starting in the centre stitch in the ditch and working out then I turn the quilt a quarter and start in the centre and work out and turn again etc. Pinning lots was the key for me. If you use a cotton batting it grips the fabric better and doesn't slide as much. I referred to the Harriet Hargrave book for tips but there are plenty of tips here to help you also. Let us know how you go. I guess there could be a problem with your machine but you would need to try someone else's if you could to determine if it was your techniques or the machine. Good luck. It will be great when you get it sorted.

I clamp my backing to a table then add the batting and clamp tight again and then add the top doing the same and then I pin same amt distance all the way through the quilt and then start in the center and go out. I don't have any puckers then.

I too use safety pins and then stitch in the ditch holding both sides of fabric as I stitch a little slower than usually with the walking foot. Before I got the walking foot I spent about as much ripping out stitching as I did sewing. I haven't had much success with free motion quilting-maybe not enough practice.

Love the walking foot with my Bernina 440 QE. Also purchased a generic one for my Singer 15-works well with it also. It is much easier for me than FMQ.

I have an extension table for my machine and it does give you a larger space to work on making it easier to move the quilt.

I haven't read all the posts in this thread, sonforgive me if I'm repeating. Have you tried starching the backing before you start pinning? That way it would lay flatter. I know there are people on this board that do that. Good luck with your quilts.

Some machines will NOT cooperate. :thumbdown:

I see good advice from previous posters. My 2 cents worth would be (for your NEXT quilt): go back to some of the older machine quilting methods. Make blocks, rows or quarters; machine quilt and then assemble.

Thanks for all the advise. I am going to keep trying. I'll let you know what works! :)

Don't use straight pins! Use safety pins and please try the darning foot. I can't machine quilt without it.

I agree that you need to tape the backing to the floor or other hard surface, not the carpet. Use quilter's safety pins and pin about every 4 inches. After you have it pinned, flip it over to check for any wrinkles before you start quilting. You may need to re-pin. Test your quilting stitch first on a test 'quilt sandwich' which is just 2 pieces of fabric and batting similar to the quilt on which you will be quilting. You may need to adjust your tensions if the stitches are off. What type of batting are you using?
I do donation quilts and have done about 2000 for various organizations. You can spray baste and then wash the quilt after you have finished quilting. Be aware that a lot of the basting sprays are temporary and only last a day or two. If using a basting spray, try to use the non-toxic ones.
Make certain there is no drag on your quilt when quilting. You may need to 'toss' it over your shoulder to take any weight off or it can affect your stitches.
I do mainly free motion quilting, but have stitched in the ditch on some of the quilts. I also like to use the 3 step zig zag on the binding. If you are doing a quilt for preemies, check with the organization. Some hospitals do not want any batting used and want those quilts backed with flannel and minimal if any quilting- just around the edge. Preemies skins are very fragile.
A walking foot helps in 'stitching' in the ditch to keep the layers even, although I like meandering (free motion quilting).
Also, what type of thread are you using? I use a bobbin weight thread mainly. The needle is important also. Here is a tip on needles from Superior Threads:
for 60 wt., monofilament, and #100 threads: use a #70/10 Topstitch needle
- for 50 wt. threads (piecing wt. threads): use a #80/12 Topstitch needle
- for 40 wt. threads (quilting and embroidery): use a #90/14 Topstitch needle
- for 30 wt. and heavier threads: use a #100/16 Topstitch needle
Here is another tip from them regarding thread type when quilting. Quilting King Tut (cotton), So Fine #30, So Fine #50 (poly), Rainbows (high sheen variegated), OMNI, Silk, Highlights, Art Studio Colors, Nature Colors, Living Colors, MonoPoly, Poly Quilter, Lava
Of course these are their threads. Some threads don't always work on all machines. Thus, it is important to test first. I do use a titanium needle and have used a variety of threads. How old are your threads? They do deteriorate over time and especially if exposed to dust.
Hopefully this is not TMI.
Good Luck

I machine quilt only. You have to pin it with safety pins and I mean pin. My last quilt I used 300 pins, it was double bed size.
You have to use a walking foot as well. Make sure when you pin it your pins go all the way through. Make sure that your have the wrong side smooth before you start. It sounds like your bobbin might need some attention . Your thread should be machine quilting thread. When you put it under the machine keep it smooth. This should help if you have anymore problems just let me know and I will be glad to try to help you. Good luck and keep on going don't stop!

I am a newbie so I will just suggest what I have done and what works for me.
I have no table and I wouod never get up after being on the floor even for one quilt. I also am like the person that says the safty pins get in the way. Soooo. If you have a wall large enough put newpaper or some type of quard. then with a stool I am very short (I need 2 stools) put your backing up from your quilt to where all edges of your wall are protectd. You can use whatever works to keep the quilt up patinters tape ect. this way you can see if you backing is strait and you can smooth out aa you go down. Gravity at this poiont is your friend.
You said you didn't want to use spray. This only stays on until washed. If you are giveng it to children etc. washing is very necessary
Spraaying the adhesive from the top down. Fold the quilt so it unfolds as you go down also the batting should unfold the same way.
When you are done have another pair of hands to help and at that time if you can roll the quilt up at least one way. Or howerer you are going to put it into your sewing machine. Alway start in the middle of the quilt. I have found the spray to hole much better than pins. Make sure you're feet are down or covered if your machine doesn't have the ablitly to drop them.
Hope this helps
Julie

This is my second reply-always change your needle after every quilt. The pinning with safety pins is the most important thing.
Josie

I use two or three tables pushed together at our fellowship hall at Church. I tape, but not so tight that it stretches the backing, then smooth the batting on, then safety pin the top. I try and find a friend to help, so there is one on each side or end of the quilt. I tried on the carpet but that didn't work for me. I found that when I am quilting I have to start in the center of the quilt and go so far out in all four directions, then finish out on one side, or end etc. I learned that I must start in the center years ago when I did a king size quilt and started on one end, had to take everything out. and start over - experience is a good but sometimes mean teacher. I have never sent my quilts out to be quilted. I don't do fancy quilting like feathers, etc, but do use stencils a lot, or stitch in the ditch. I only machine quilt.
I also wear gloves when quilting and try and keep the underside as well as the top as smooth as possible with my hands.If I can I often hold my left hand on the underside of the quilt, which helps keep it smooth, sometimes I can't do this on diff. parts of the quilt. I check the backside often, so I can get any puckers that might occur smoothed out before I get too far along on the quilt. Hope this helps, good luck.

This is a wealth of info, thanks everyone that has offered suggestions. I am sure this will be of great help to many.