Help.....sewing around curves
 

Do any of you have issues with sewing around circles or curved areas?? Is it me?? I can never go around a curve without the fabric bunching/puckering. If anyone knows any tips please tell me. I am making a pot holder. Pretty pathetic when I can't go around a curve. Then after I tackle the curve, I then have to put the binding on. That's really going to be hilarious....not!:(

Cut circles on bias to help with smooth. Next put bulk on feed dog side to help move the fabric through. Hope that helps.

Can't help you here---but glad for the post as I will be checking up on this also. I too have a lot of problems with curves.

Just for my information, how can you NOT cut circles on a bias?

Small clips help, and pin often so you can ease the extra fabric into the curve. Once you get the hang of it it is a piece of cake. Keep trying and let us know how it works. It's another situation where practice makes perfect.
Sue

Yeah, I was wonderfing the same thing! LOL! Since it is 360 degrees, some part of it will be bias no matter what, right?
I stitch circles more slowly and have learned to fractionally turn the fabric when the needle is in the up position....don't ask me how I did this 'cause I don't know!....I also shorten the stitch length just a bit. I watch the front of the presseer foot I use, which has an indent just between the toes, and that let's me keep the circle's edge under the needle just a couple stitch spaces ahead of the needle strike.

Jan in VA

short stitches for more control, curved pc on the bottom so feed dogs can help, make a small drunkard's path quilt (small quilt not small patches, bigger is easier to learn on), by the time you get done with the top, you will be so much better at doing this.... make an extra 10 blocks so you can pick thru and delete the worst 10 from the group....

I slightly reduce the stitch length and sew more slowly around curves. Also, I "move" the fabric when the needle is up. But the recommended method on a tight curve is to sew a few stitches, stop with the needle in the fabric, lift the pressure foot, turn the fabric slightly, put the foot back down, sew a few more stitches, etc. On a good day, it goes around the curve without adjusting. On a not as good day, I stop, lift and turn. Just be sure that the fabric stays flat on the bed of the machine.

Sometimes I even pin if needed.

Glue and clips-I put clips on curves,then glue, remove clips, then sew-did a queen size drunkards path without a pin-glue sticks or glue pens work really well and wash out when the quilt is finished.

Curvemaster foot works well, but I sold mine because I found out I could do it with my foot that has the 1/4" guide on side and following the directions on their website about lifting the top piece as you sew instead of having it down flat on the bottom piece.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...nphD3jA5vzqhdg

How big is your circle? I make a circle out of cardboard (cereal box, etc) and cut fabric about 1/2" larger all around. Then hand baste around the circle, like making a yo-yo and draw thread up tight around the circle but don't tie it. Give it a good press, then remove cardboard. Use glue stick to tack circle to base fabric and press again to make "crisp". Flip and cut "back" fabric away. Open out circle from back and stitch on pressed circle line. When I did mine, the circle was about 11" so I didn't have to clip which kept the circle round. First time I tried it that way, so don't know if it is as easy when smaller. If making drunkard's path, cut in 1/4's. Hope I explained it well. Good luck.

What I haven't seen mentioned so far is to make sure you clip your seam allowance. Granted this goes back to garment sewing days but the theory still holds. If you clip your seam allowances at very close intervals it does flatten your piece. You will be have to careful not to make your snips too deep. Or cut your piece larger than the normal 1/4", mark your seam lines and then clip. And use LOTS of pins. HTH.

This is exactly the reply I was going to make. I had no luck with the CurveMaster but did have luck with the technique they show and my 1/4" foot.

I have never snipped seam allowances and my curves turn out really great. I do divide the curve into portions equally. If one section is longer then that is what goes on the bottom when sewing .... relaxed bottom. I use my long bent angled tweezers to line up the seams as I sew. I also separate the two layers of material with a finger til I get to where there isn't any more room for a finger. Works for me.

ali

One tip I don't see listed is to put the convex curve on top of the concave curve.

(in case you have trouble remembering which is convex and which is concave, convex is the well-endowed piece. Concave is not. :D)

Piecing is an art unto itself. To learn to do it, and do it well, requires patience, practice, and guidance. There is one book I can recommend, and I do recommend you get it at Alibris. It's an online bookstore with rock bottom prices. I have picked up quilting books there for as low as .99¢, no joke. The web site is:http://www.alibris.com/booksearch.de...isting-_-title That will take you right to the book. The book I'm thinking of for you is called: Piecing: Expanding the Basics, by Ruth McDowell.

The description of the book reads: "A guide to piecing, looking at techniques for piecing curved seams, insets, multiple angles, Z seams, Y seams, puzzle seams, diagonals, intersecting seams and slipped seams. Each technique is explained step-by-step with problem solving tips and hints on fabric selection and working style."

I have this book, and can vouch for its usefulness. It seems every pattern I come across want you to "avoid" Y-seams, and other difficult seams. But you don't have to do that. With a little patience and practice, you can do these like a pro. They're not as hard as you think.

This was one of my more expensive books. It cost me $5.75. Usually I don't buy books over $5.00. Do understand these are used books, not in perfect condition. If you don't mind that, and you don't mind paying less than $5.00, there are a zillion (well, maybe not that many) books on every aspect of quilting you can imagine in this store. Of course you can spent more money. But if you just keep hunting, no doubt you'll find something a lot more reasonable in the subject you want. People have been writing about the same topics for a long time.

Just a thought.