What counts is how big the pieces are *after they have been sewn together*. Cut 3 pieces of fabric 2.5" wide and sew them together so you have 3 pieces side-by-side. Press. Measure the width of the pieces. Here is where you want an exact 1/4" off each piece you have cut, so the width of the pieces sewn together should be exactly 6.5" wide. If you have used an exact 1/4" seam, you will find that the width is less than 6.5". This is because turn-of-the-cloth (and thread size) take up a little of the fabric.

This is why you cut accurately, and then sew with a scant 1/4" seam, in order to get a perfect 1/4" taken off each piece after it is sewn to other pieces. The "scant" depends a lot on the thread you use and how accurately you iron. The thicker the thread used to sew the seam, the more "scant" your seam needs to be to allow for turn-of-the-cloth when you iron.

Edit: Patterns are drafted with accurate 1/4" in the finished pieces. This is what we try to achieve with sewing. It's just that if you sew a full 1/4" seam and then iron the pieces flat, you will not achieve the size that the pattern was drafted.

It's true that some patterns allow you to use any size seam and the pattern will still work -- only the size will be slightly different. However, more complex patterns really require that accurate *finished* 1/4" seam in order to have all the seams match.

This thread has be so informative to me. I am currently learning to cut and sew accurately. It has been quite a struggle for me. In addition to starching and pressing the fabric, it took a little while to realize that the width of the lines on the rulers makes a big difference as well as the scant 1/4" seam. I think I finally got all the steps working for me now and my strips and blocks are measuring like they should. But it is discussions like this one that has enabled me to finally cross all the Ts and dot all the Is. Thanks to all of you who participate.

Not only do you need to have a 1/4 " seam allowance you need to be careful cutting your fabric. If you slant the rotary cutter that will throw your size off as well. Remember every small amount the block is off it's multiplied by how many blocks you make. Therefore a fraction of an inch becomes and inch eventually. I learned the hard way when I made my first miniature quilt.

Measure your pieces after you cut them.

Depending on your ruler and/or cutting method (using dies or a June Tailor strip ruler), the sizes may vary a bit.

When I cut around a template or a ruler, my pieces are probably about 1/64 inch (or more) larger than the 'designated size'.

Examples: If I cut all the way around a 4 inch template - the fabric size might be about 4-1/16 x 4-1/16 - so I can use a full 1/4 inch seam.

If I cut a 4-inch strip using a ruler in my usual way, the strip might be up to 1/32 wider than 4 inches.

I don't know what happens when one uses the June Tailor strip cutting guide. I've been meaning to check it out,but so far, I haven't.

I don't sell, or put my quilts in competition. I don't want to be professional, I just want to enjoy the look on someone face when I give them the quilt. I try very hard to make all seams meet. When quilting began I don't believe they had sewing machines, it's just the "perfectionist" in us that wants it that way, but does it really have to be. Do you actually notice one block off a scant over the other. Okay in competition, but not in my everyday life. I use a 1/4 quilting foot, if the seams not right I always allow for error. But if it's not perfect, then "Oh Well" keep trying. I want my quilts to be used, abused, loved, dragged, or whatever. I do see though that as I keep making, the seams are getting better and consistent. If I can't smudge it correctly, then I"ll redo the block.

I do not aim for perfection. I do not enter competitions and I do not sell my quilts. I quilt because I enjoy the artistic creativity of quilting. Most of my blocks look really good and match up well, but I can think of 2 blocks (from different quilts) that I was off enough that when I insisted the seams and points match just perfectly, they bowed a bit. Both drove me crazy so eventually I ripped the seams out and sewed them back together "unperfectly" (meaning the corners and points didn't quite match) so they would lay flat. To this day, I can't even remember which quilts the problem blocks were in and no one that isn't a quilter would probably even notice. My friends and family tend to look at the overall project rather than the details.

Now if I was entering in a competition or selling a quilt for profit, I would feel compelled to be as perfect as absolutely possible, which is why I'll probably never do either of those things.

To keep the frustration of putting blocks together minimal, I try to keep the seams as accurate as possible. Another thing learned from G. Bonesteel is to use master templates to true up the block before putting them together. If possible, when the blocks are not consistant is to sash them if possible, then true them up.

Me, too! While I agree wholeheartedly that quilting should be fun, it is not fun when blocks don't fit together as they should, i.e., the more adjustments I have to make when I put the blocks and rows together, the less fun I'm having.

However, I think if I end up with a block that is somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8" off, I consider it satisfactory, at least until I put the whole shebang together.

This is an important point to keep in mind. Some blocks won't work very well if they are a little bit off in the seam allowances.

I have used the June Taylor cutting guide and for some reason the stripes come out just a tad thin. It may be just the difference in rulers I use to measure my blocks. But it is more accurate for me to use my rulers all made by the same brand. It's amazing how every little thing makes a difference in accuracy.

I couldn't agree more. A lot depends on what I'm making the quilt for. If it's for a quilt show, I care more than if I'm making it for a child to drag around. I try to remind myself that I sew for fun. There are enough stressors in life.

I enjoy crazy quilting cause there is less worrying about accuracy. I have found using an old singer magnet found in the draw of my old 301 desk is very useful to guiding the fabric to line up to the 1/4 inch mark.

Thanks, Tartan. I have the same #37 foot and I didn't realize it had the 1/8" nor did I know what that notch was for. Wow, I learned something important today. I love this forum.

Same here, I stopped using Connecting Threads cotton thread for piecing and am using up cones of polyester serger thread. I have tons of it from when I used to sew for the public. It used to be the elusive quilt police frowned on using polyester thread on cotton quilt fabric, but once I realized it was okay, I've been using ever since. It DOES seem to make a difference because the thread is thinner.

My Brother Dreamweaver allows me to change the needle positions in increments as small as 1/8 of a millimeter, but the seam will only be accurate if I follow the guide precisely. I have to have an additional guide besides just the edge of the foot or the edges of my patches will tend to wander under the foot and loose a nanometer or two in the stitching. I especially tend to wander off when sewing HSTs and other pointy-ended patches.

I go by this as well, except I usually have at least a couple points lost. But if it lays flat I'm good.

Great thread (topic, I mean:)) I, too, have a Bernina and was using the #37 foot, as well as trying to follow the 1/4" line on the bed of the machine. I recently bought the #57 foot, which is like the #37 but has the edge guide on the right side. I love it so much more! The first time I used it was just before the 4th of July when I decided to make a small one-block quilt to hang on the front door instead of a patriotic wreath. I had three pieces of patriotic fabric, one with a white, one with red and one with blue background. I made a white Friendship Star with the red fabric and bordered it with the blue. The #57 foot really, really made it easy.
I've used the #37 foot for years but will probably not ever use it again. Well, maybe, but #57 is now my favorite foot! Today I finished the top of a baby quilt that has rows of 2.5" squares of alphabet fabric and coordinating brights. Again, the #57 foot really made it easier to be more accurate. I do know you can get the same type foot for other machine, too. It's not exclusive to Bernina.

When assisting the judges at a major quilt show, I learned that if a seam was one thread width off, they let it go but when it was two thread widths off, they marked down for it. They said that two thread widths could be corrected but one might not be able to be corrected.

Yes, judges DO measure. And the binding, BTW, is the first thing they check.

Me too! I take extra care if I'm making blocks for a swap or donation to make sure they are the correct finished size... the rest of the time as long as they fit right and look good I'm satisfied.

Auriful thread helps too!