![]() |
Originally Posted by Kitsie
(Post 7781385)
I suppose you could sew the sleeve onto the backing first before you layer the quilt, but would have to be very careful to keep it in the right place!
Excellent idea, but that would be possible only if I was not using my longarm to quilt. |
Originally Posted by minibarn
(Post 7781312)
I have an older magazine that shows the blind hem stitch method like the one referred to above, I would give that a try but on practice pieces first until you get good at it. I am challenged w/the blind hem stitch for my dresses so I can imagine it would take some practice for a quilt.
Ok, I like both the idea of using an invisible thread in the bobin and a blind hem stitch. I'll definitely give it a try. |
I have done a few with a technique I found a long time ago. Use backing fabric (or muslin) and cut 12" squares (number of squares depends on size of quilt) fold the squares in half to form triangle, and in 1/2 again to make a smaller triangle. Place the raw edges at the top of the quilt and stitch down. Place these squares equal distances apart, so that there is about 6" between points. This is a matter of judgement. Heavy quilts require more squares. Stitch these squares down (points will "point" to the bottom of the quilt) and finish with binding in any fashion you choose. Tack the points down to the back (very little hand sewing!!!) and you're done!
The points form the pocket. You can use a longer rod to show on the ends, or use a shorter one, and hang on tiny nails (for small wall hanging) and no rod will show, just make sure the rod is secure under the outside pockets. |
If my quilt is in block form, I use one of the seams that go across the quilt at the top. I put in invisible thread and stitch in the ditch of that seam with large stitches. I then flip the fabric sleeve up and stitch in the ditch just under the binding. It makes a nice solid sleeve and the large stitches are easy to remove once the sleeve is no longer needed. The ugly sleeve fabric then goes in my scrap basket to be cut up.
|
If you could align the sleeve with a border seam you could sew it in the ditch. But you'd probably spend more time fiddling with the details than sewing it by hand.
|
In museums, they use safety pins to attach the hanging sleeve (as long as it isn't going to be on display for an extended length of time). Just make sure you only pin to the backing, not all the way through to the front.
|
If it's just for yourself you could attach the hang sleeve using Steam a Seam or something like that. I've done that for small wall hangings.
Watson |
Sew a few triangles to the back of the quilt. The rod will slip right under them. No need to have a solid long sleeve.
|
Here's a video showing how to add the sleeve after quilting/before biding & it's done mostly by machine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOff5Ok0f8M
|
When making one of that size, I sometimes cut the backing long enough that I have extra at the top. It then can be folded even with the top to stitch down when attaching the binding. At least, there's one side of the sleeve that I don't have to hand stitch! Also, can attach a sleeve with pins. Perhaps make a sleeve to be attached with pins but put the label on as a pocket to hold the sleeve when not in use. This allows the quilt to also be a cover (baby quilt) or table topper as well as a wall hanging.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:45 PM. |