How To Machine Bind
 

I am adding a new thread because the How To is getting lost in the other discussion.

There are several ways to bind by machine. I believe that a good machine binding results in the same evenness of the stitching on the back as the front. This means that if the binding is sewed first to the back and then flipped to the front, the back stitching should be even and not weave on and off the edge of the binding. With this said....
1. Which side do you attach the binding - back to front or front to back.
2. How do you line up the fold over to get even stitching on the other side.
3. How do you stitch the mitre.
4. What stitch do you use in the final sew - straight or decorative ( includes zig zag)

There may be other suggestions, if so please discuss.

Now folks, this thread is not meant to be a discussion of the preference of hand over machine. It is a discussion of the techniques of doing machine binding.

Tks for posting this Holice. I'll be watching this thread closely.

I put a written tute on the board years ago addressing this issue.

1 - I sew the binding to the back first. Then I iron/press the binding away from the body of the quilt.
2 - then I fold the binding over and press it again toward the fron of the quilt. You may use a glude stick or school gule if you want with this.
3 - I like to hand stitch the mitre after all is done because I prefer the look.
4 - I played around with the stitches. The one I really like looks like shichen feet.

For me the ironing is the key. I avoid any pulling and it is ready to sew without any difficulties.

AliKat: When you fold the binding from the back to the front....how do you line it up with the stitches that are showing on the front. The positioning of this edge would appear to be important not to stitch over the fold in the back. Do you try to catch the edge of the back fold or just off (in the ditch). This appears to be the one important part that few if any describe. This is the part of machine binding that judges look for.

Just had this same discussion at my quilting group yesterday! Responses were all over the map...
0. ( you didn't ask but...) How do you prepare binding?
Unless I'm doing a scallop, I cut it across the grain, 2.25", and do not press it in half.
1. Which side do you attach the binding - back to front or front to back.
I attach it to the front first, using my 1/4" even feed foot
2. How do you line up the fold over to get even stitching on the other side.
I press 3 times: Once to set the seam (avoiding fold of the binding)
The second time, I fold it straight out, really giving it a tug to make sure that there's no tuck in the binding. again not pressing the fold
The third time I press it back over the edge, pressing the fold in, making sure the binding is even and fully filled with the batting. I press to within 2 or 3 inches of the corner. dealing with that section as I sew it.
3. How do you stitch the mitre.
OK, I know you are supposed to do this, but I don't. Send in the police.
4. What stitch do you use in the final sew - straight or decorative (includes zig zag)
I usually don't need to pin or even glue. As I sew, I just hold the quilt up a bit from the bed and feel with my fingers to make sure the binding stays in place. As I come to a corner, I stop and manipulate the binding so the corner lays flat and pin this small area securely. I sew a straight stitch from the front, stitching in the ditch.

My binding is narrow and the excess binding makes a bit of a flange in the back, but it's just fine with me! I will say that I do not enter any shows or competitions. If I did, I would hand stitch #4, and stitch the miter closed.

I like simple and here is how I do it. I cut the binding 2 1/2 and iron only the diagonal joins. I fold it over and sew it to the back about 1/4 inch. I turn over the quilt and sew it to the front using a serpentine stitch my Janome has. I aim to have the left bite just a tad bit over the binding onto the quilt.

I am not a show quilter and the majority of my quilts go to charity. I want a very sturdy quilt that will hold up to numerous washing. Quilts For Kids requires the binding to me all machine sewn. That is what made me learn this technique. It was so fast and easy.

I won Best Of Show in my guild show---viewers choice only no judges----and used this technique. That is my avatar picture. If I did a real show quilt---I would do the traditional binding with the hand sewing on the back.

After sewing binding to the back I fold it to the front and hold in place with those small red clips.
Sew onto the front by following the back stitchs as you take out the red clips. This way you are stitching in the ditch on the back.

I use clear thread in the bobbin and sew to the back and fold over to the front and sew it down with a regular stitch. I cut my binding 2.5 inches and I do not sew any part of the binding - I think it was Peckish that suggested this and my bindings have gone on without a hitch since I stopped ironing the bind. My quilts are made for use and not for show so no hand sewing for me :)

When you fold the binding over (either side) do you align the edge to:

1. before the stitching line
2. on the stitching line
3 or after the stitching line.
4. or wherever it lands on the other side.

How do you align if your seam in stitching binding on is not consistenly even.

Several of the above comments said "I don't enter my quilts in competition so it is ok with me". What exactly do mean by this. Do you have a different standard of quality if the quilt is entered in a show and one made for charity.

Is there extra effort made when entering the quilt than charity quilts.

I fold so that the stitch line is under the binding far enough to top stich close to the edge of the binding.

I cut 2-1/2" strips and sew together diaganolly.

I sew to the back first.

I don't iron (maybe I should try that sometime???)

I fold over to the front.

The final sewing is my biggest problem - because I sew in the ditch on the back of the quilt and I want to make sure I catch the front binding. What I do is I lay the quilt out on the floor. Then I fold back and pin in the ditch. I put my pin in the ditch where I intend to sew - all of the while I am pinning I flip back to be sure that I am catching the back. Then I sew slowly on the back in the ditch checking very often that things are lining up. I use a straight stitch.. I have thought about trying a decorative but not yet.

Doing it this way I am please with the outcome - its not perfect but I can live with it. I only give I don't show.

I cut binding 2.5". After ironing in half, sew to the front. Miter corners as I go. Then I use Sharon schamber's glue basting method,running a thin glue bead on the seam and ironing the binding down as I go. I then stitch in the ditch on the front. Have had really good results using this method. Seems like it took a long time until I compare how long it takes to stitch by hand. By the way when sewing the binding on I move the needle to between 3/8 and 1/4 position, when I stitch in the ditch I move back to 1/4 and it almost always catches evenly on the back.

I always machine sew my bindings. Last night I tried the blind hem stitch. I need more practice. LOL I have also just learned that when I get to 1/4" of the corner, before I fold the binding for the miter, to sew diagonally off the corner. Then conftinue on as before. I love it and my corners tiurn out better.

2.5" strips....sew to the front....flip to back and glue down, covering stitch line.....SITD from the front side

I cut 2 1/4 inch binding. I fold in half , then press. It make no special adjustment if I am sewing the binding to the front or back first. I use my 1/4 inch foot to attach the binding. Once the first part of the binding is applied I , use 1/4 inch rolls of fusible to go around the entire perimeter of the binding edge, applying the fusible in between the stitching line and the raw edges. I then press the entire binding into place, going past the first stitching line by approx. 2 threads. Then I do the final stitching... this is the only part that changes depending on if I stitched to the front or back in the first application of the binding. If I stitched to the back first and the binding is now brought to the front. .. I stitch on the font side within a thread of the binding edge. If I stitched to the front and the binding was brought to the back... I will stitch an the front side using a stitch in the ditch foot for the final stitching, sometimes using invisible thread sometimes regular thread depending on the quilt. I find using the fusible give much better results than glue and everything is exactly where it needs to be before that last round of stitching. The only pins I may use are 4 at each corner miter... but sometimes just a 1/4 inch square of fusible will hold that miter in place till its sewn... I hate lots of pins when binding.. and have enough just working with the volume of the quilt... so I make it as easy as possible one I get to the machine for that last round of sewing on the binding. I can bind a whole queen quilt in less than an evening. Then its on to the next quilt.

I have a Juki 2000 machine and a binding attachment. I love my binder attachment. It sews the binding in one pass. I did a video tutorial on my youtube channel.
You can use a binding attachment if your machine has the screw holes in the bed. There should be two screw holes to the right of your needle plate. If you got that, you can get a binding attachment.
There is a learning curve though. I put a lot of my tips in the video now that I can do it pretty well :)

I used to do the sew, flip, glue, sew method and that works nicely too. :)

I make mostly charity quilts, so I usually just fold the back to the front. The nice thing about doing it this way is that you don't have to worry about whether you are catching your decorative stitching in the foldover. I cut the excess fabric so I have one inch, fold that in half, then I miter the corners by machine stitching that corner. I have one of those cool green miter templates that works well for me. After I have stitched the miter, I trim, turn it and press a nice half inch fold all around. If you press it well, you don't need pins or a glue stick. I also think it is very important to use a walking foot. The stitch I use most of the time is the blanket stitch, and try to have the thread match as closely as possible to the front and back fabrics. This makes the stitching almost invisible.

What is a stitch in the ditch foot? Mentioned by Lori......

Holice---My goal for a charity quilt is one of STURDY and will be able to stand up to lots of washing and using. I believe binding that is machine sewn front and back is just stronger. Quilts For Kids requires it that way because if it comes lose in some part----it can get caught up in the medical equipment.

I sew it on to the back carefully to get the good quarter inch. When I fold it to the front---I make sure it covers the stitching line. The Serpentine stitch I do on my Janome is pretty on the front.

Once you sew it to the back, you pull it around the the front. Very carefully stitch on the front just where the back stitching line shows. It helps if you folded the binding into thirds before beginning, sewed on one fold line and therefore when you fold it over to the front, it lines up nicely. You can also use a decorative stitch on the front if you choose to. I do this all the time. Michelle

Pat Sloan does machine binding an has a tutorial on her blog. I only do machine binding now. NQA certified judges accept machine binding. I attach to back of quilt and blanket stitch on the front. I usually do not miter the corners.

I use the stitch in the ditch foot in the last step of the binding . When I stitch from the right side to attach the binding on the underside... it keeps my stitches right against the binding. A stitch in the ditch foot has a blade ( not sharp) that runs in the center of the foot as a guide. I find it very useful for machine bindings as it helps to push the binding to the right a bit so I can get really close and consistant with my stitches. Some manufactures have a combination walking foot and stitch in the ditch foot.

I use a double wide bias quilt binding. Measure what I need plus 2 inches for each corner to make my miter corners. Press the entire length to be sure it is flat and even with no wrinkles to throw me off as I stitch it on. Then sew it to the front of the quilt using a 1/4 seam. Fold the binding over to the back and press the entire length to make sure it is even with no buckles. I prefer to hand stitch the other side for a nice clean line. When I do utilitarian projects like pot holders, trivets, etc. I use the same method but use the chicken tracks stitch to sew down the other side. So far, knock on wood, this has served me well.

I use a edge joining foot, same set up, with the blade in the middle. Never heard of a stitch in the ditch, but I use babylock/brother feet, perhaps they call it the edge joining foot.

I start out cutting my binding 2.5ins, join on diagonal, and then press in half. (if I am doing a small piece or if the quilt is thin then I might cut it at 2.25ins)
I then trim my quilt top so that it is even all the way around, I dont want little 'bubbles' or uneven edges.

1. I attach binding to the back using a 1/4in foot with a guide. To ensure the back is 1/4in wide.

2. I then press the binding from the back out flat, this helps me with folding over if the binding is pressed good (with lots of steam) over the stitch line. I then just fold it over, put on the edge joining foot and set the needle position to just inside the binding area. It should be lined up to just past the back binding fold, so it will be stitched in the ditch on the back.

3. I stitch off the edge, fold excess up away from the quilt, finger press the diagonal line formed, then fold it down where it matches up with the edge of the quilt. I then start down that side till the next corner. When I press (like in #2 above) I make sure that I press the miter good on the back too. When I have it on the front and am getting close to the corner, I will trim off the excess fabric etc from the corner (basically clipping the corner off) I know this makes the corner a little flatter and not "filled" like it is required in shows, however it is easier for me and my friends/family dont mind :p or even notice for that matter. I then finger fold the corner and stitch and needle down turn when I am at the right location on the corner.

4. I generally use a straight stitch, my normal piecing number on my machine is 2.5 (not sure what that is in stitches per inch) but when I do the bindings, I use 3.5 or 4.0. I have used the serpentine stitch, but as I have gotten better with the bindings, I am using the straight stitch now.

For me, I have to move real slow to ensure that the bottom stitching is in the ditch in the back. If I hurry, sometimes I get off in either direction. It does take alot of practice and a ton of patience, If anyone is trying to perfect this skill, I recommend practicing with different widths of bindings. I know I cut a little smaller when I am trying for perfection. Other times, I just want it done and gone :p

1.Cut the binding a tad over 2.5 then starch with lots of starch and press in half before I trim it to just a tad over 1 inch.
2. Trim out and stitch along the very the edge of the quilt before binding so there will be no problems. 3. Attach the binding with the walking foot using the edge of the walking foot for the guide.
4. Press the binding over the stitches and off the edge of the quilt before folding it over to the other side and glue down.
5. Stitch along the very edge of the binding with wash away thread so everything can be checked out front and back, adjustments made.
6. Then do the "real" stitching hopefully right on top of the stitches which attached the binding.
Wash to get out the glue and water soluble stitches stitches. I still do the miters with just a couple of hand stitched front to back in the middle to tack them down. I still do show quilts with a hand binding which takes forever with the ladder stitch and tiny little bites of fabric because it is still the preferred way for most judges.

Holice,
Maybe I'm taking this wrong but it seems you are offended that people may take more time or make a bigger effort on show quilts than they would on charity quilts.
This is my take on the subject:
I have yet to start my first full size quilt and doubt I'll ever enter one in a show so I'm far from an expert. That said, in almost everything that people compete in, not just quilts, there are differences in standards that must be met in order to win those competitions. I'm going to use cars as an example. There are a lot of show cars out there that never leave the trailer except to be unloaded at the next show. The owners put a lot of time and effort into keeping the car absolutely spotless including the undercarriage in order to win those competions. The same sort of thing applies to quilts. Judges have to nitpick things to death sometimes in order to make a decision as to which quilt (or show car) wins. That includes things like whether or not the stitches were done by hand or machine and whether or not there's any dirt on the underside of the car.
It doesn't mean that the person making a quilt for charity cares more or less than the (sometimes the same) person making a quilt to compete at shows, it just means a different set of standards does apply. Show quilts are judged on things like technical skill and beauty, charity quilts are judged by repeated washings and sometimes some pretty hard use.
The point I'm trying to make is both quilts are equally valid but they are intended for different purposes and different rules do apply.
Rodney