How to manage seams in Hunters Star
 

I would like to make a Hunters Star quilt (I am following this method: http://www.cascadequilts.com/2011/02...orial.html?m=1).

I tried one block, it came out reasonably well. But the seams get bulky. Is there a good way to manage the seams to reduce bulk? I have seen references to spinning the seams on a 4 patch, but I'm not understanding how those few threads just pop open. I don't want to tug, this block has a bit of stretch.

You could try pressing the seams open... I know some people hate this method but I've found it helps especially when working on bias cuts.

And I always seem to get truer more accurate blocks than when only pressing in one direction.

I pop the seams open all the time. Make yourself a 4 patch. when you stitch the final seam, you need to have your seams going in opposite direction. This is so the seams will all lay in either clockwise or counter-clock direction or it won't work.

I'm an open-seam presser as well. Makes the blocks lay much flatter and I've never had an issue with a seam coming open in my quilts even after years of use/washing.

I usually do what ManiacQuilter2 does. I learned it by watching Eleanor burns. The other thing I heard about is to use my clapper on intersecting seams that are stubborn. It works fine for me but would still pop the seams open first

Maniac Quilter 2 and Stitchnripper - by seams running opposing directions, I understand that to be nesting seams? Which I try my darndest to always have. How do you "pop" those seams open? Do you just use your seam ripper and pull at the first one? I'll have to look up Eleanor Burns. I am very visual.

You don't actually "pop" them. Where the seam of the two pieces intersect, there's a vertical seam - generally 3-4 stitches from the intersecting seam to the raw edge of the seam allowance. I just very gently use my seam ripper to pick those 3-4 stitches out on both vertical stitches to the seam that crosses it. Do that on both sides then "smush" (technical Eleanor Burns term) them open.

I watched Eleanor Burns and also clicked on the link for spinning the seams onthe 9 patch. And - I got it!!! I see what is meant by those extra seams. I was able to do this on my block (only had 1 seam flipped wrong)- and it sure makes a big difference!!!! Thanks for the links - I'm very visual, and I hadn't seen those yet - those made sense to me.

I have contemplated pressing my seams open as was suggested. I know Leah Day is also an advocate and says the same – she’s never had an issue. I think I would miss the nesting seams when putting together rows. But I am thinking this might be good to try on a smaller quilt. It might be something that I really like as well. My sewing machine doesn’t really like any bulk. L

At my guild meeting on Wednesday a wonderful LAQ, mentioned that when she gets a quilt with a big star or medallion with lots of bulk, she uses a syringe with Best Press and just applies the Best Press to the seam then presses. She said it works wonders.

I am working on a 60 degree quilt and one of the many great tips I got here was to press the seams open. It works wonders for me.

If I have a block with multiple seams all come together in one spot I will press them open. Otherwise I try to do like Maniac Quilter does and pinwheel the seams open. One of the first quilts I started when I was a rank beginner I've recently finished and it has some seam nightmares--I plan to use lots of steam and my 3lb rubber mallet! :D

I also spin (or pop) seams where it is helpful... it allows the block to lay nice and flat.

Jenny Doan has a fantastic Hunters Star tute, no Y seams.

When the first two seams are nested, the cross seam should be pressed in opposite directions, so that all the seams rotate around the block. Your iron can go around and around in the same direction. That way when you sew to another block, all those seams will nest.

That center "pop" is easy to do. I grasp the seam with my thumb nails and pointer finger and twist. Most times and seam just "pops" open. Sometimes I can take a pin and undo one more stitch. But do not cut those threads. They need to stay there to secure the next stitch in that seam you just popped.

My stack 'n' whack was made that way, and it was very easy to sew one block to another. All the seams nested. Just be sure you go the same way on all your blocks; either clockwise or counterclockwise. I see in the pictures of OP that each one is different. The black and white goes one way and the yellow goes the other way. Works for her.

When I did mine, on the strips of opposing blocks, on one block press toward the star point and the other block press away from the star point. When you join the 2 blocks together you can nest the points. Then the long center seam I pressed open.
Also, because there is a fair amount of bias on these, when I have a wavy piece I spray with starch and hold a hot iron over it - not pressing, just heating. The bias wavy part will shrink back to shape.

I'm working on my son's Hunter's Star and this is just too easy. Also quick.

The tutorial on Cascade Quilts does not use Y-seams either. I made a block from MSQC tutorial and one from Cascade Quilts, and there are actually less seams in the one from Cascade Quilts. I like the look of it a bit better as well.

I have started pressing seams open. I've read a few articles on this issue, they say pressing to the side was to give added strength to the seams, but it was back when most quilts were done completely by hand. I started pressing seams open, and it works much better for me. I do a lil stay stitch at the start of each seam. I've washed a couple of my quilts, and so far they're holding up fine.
Good luck to you!
Kif

I plan on making one the Jenny Doan way. Hard to say when that will be.

I have made a Hunters star but I used a PP pattern, so much easier IMO

Lovely work - I like to see the backs of blocks - yours are beautiful!

I press seams open. After all pressed open seams have held my britches together for years.