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Ghostrider, thanks for the links - the Tulip site was great. Lots of other good info there.:thumbup:
I agree on your cutting strategy - don't use the lines on the mat, cut using the ruler. I only use the lines as a double-check to make sure I am 'level and plumb' and not cutting parallelograms. I would be concerned that abrading the surface irregularities would give the mat areas of depressions and it might affect how the rotary cutter passes over them. Passing a cutter across grooves I have noticed makes it stick and parallel/slipping into grooves gets the cutter out of alignment. Maybe I'm just suffering from beginner's fussiness. |
Originally Posted by ghostrider
(Post 4724783)
Make sure you are cutting with the blade straight up and down to minimize the 'grooving'. I seldom use the grid lines to cut anything except when I'm straightening an edge at the beginning so my cutting is not always in the same spot. I have a Fiskars mat that's almost 20 years old and still in great shape.
Here's info on the soaking of mats. http://tulip-patch.blogspot.com/2010...-olfa-mat.html And a review of the mat smoother - they do work, as several members here will attest http://quiltersreview.com/index.php/...es-a-worn-mat/ |
Using sharp blades will also greatly minimize the grooving in cutting mats.
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I finally quit cutting batting on my board as it went in the grooves and stayed in the mat. Now I have one I use only the back side for cutting batting.
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