That helps, as I'm still working on my sample. I'll see if I can find 70/10 Microtex sharps.

Watson

Great videos. But one thing Bob didn't teach was how to test to see if your bobbin tension is correct. I learned to hold up the bobbin by the thread in it. The bobbin should dangle on that thread. Then you give the thread a little jerk. The bobbin should lower a little and then stop again and dangle. It's not that hard to do, and gives you the correct tension for that thread.

And he said to give that bobbin screw a quarter turn. Usually a 16th of an inch turn one way or the other will do wonders. If the bobbin just plain unwinds when you hold onto the thread, tighten the screw (turn it to the right) just a little and test again. If the bobbin won't unwind at all when you jerk it, it's too tight. Loosen it by turning that screw to the left just little (lefty loosey) and test again.

I've done this many times and it is easy. Just don't be scared of your bobbin.

Invisifil, YES! I love to use it to hand applique! The stitches can hardly be seen! I use ecru for everything.

I like the poly monofilament thread because you can iron over it (if need be). The nylon melts if you iron it.

Great tip sewvicki! I was given this advice when I was making a machine pieced applique quilt.

My YLI nylon monofilament does not melt when ironed. I've used it in my invisible machine applique for years and never had a problem. When I read on the Superior website that it has a lower melting point than polyester, I took several strands of the nylon and ironed over them with my Rowenta on its hottest setting. It didn't matter how long I let the iron sit on the strands or how many times I ironed back and forth -- I could not detect any change at all in the thread. It certainly did not melt.