Isn't there an easier way?
 

You would want to cut your squares 6 1/2 by 6 1/2 inches. I don't cut my HSTS until after I have sewn the seams 1/4 inch on both sides of the diagonal. I use an iron to press the diagonal seam on one square and then place it on top and use that to work off my 1/4 inch seam. But you could cut first and deal with the bias seam. That might mean that you pull the square out of shape though.

Once both seams are done, I cut down the middle and press to the dark side. One pressed, I "square up" using a ruler that has a 45 degree angle line and I align that to the diagonal. It helps to have a square ruler and to mark off the total size with painters tape. Just don't forget you will need to have your 1/4 inch seams on the outside.

Don't be frustrated! I think you're probably making it seem more difficult because it's such an important quilt for a special person.

Here's how I would do it:

Cut 14 (6 1/2" wide) strips. From strips, cut 84 6 1/2" squares. Cut them once diagonally to make your half square triangles. Pair them up and sew them together.

Your resulting triangle squares will be just a smidge larger than they are supposed to be. The pattern is using 5 1/2" finished triangle squares, so you need to trim these to 6" square and they'll be ready to use.

Someone else should double check me, but that's how I read it.

Take care, Onalee. I'll keep good thoughts for you and your brother.

Well I guess I should post a link to the pattern on Fons and Porter as the half square triangle doesn't sew to another half square...I'm so sorry after your wonderful explanation luvspaper If you enlarge the picture an then see the black 6 3/8" point of the arrow then is sewn to the other pieces .... I hope that makes sense? https://www.shopfonsandporter.com/product/black-arrow-digital-pattern/shop-quilty/?template=sq

This is basically the same method as leaving the square whole, drawing a diagonal line, sewing on either side of the line, then cutting on the line. In the F&P directions, they just tell you to cut on the line first. There are no extra steps, you just cut first then sew as opposed to sew first then cut.
When you need HST, and you are going to start out with squares that will be cut on the diagonal, you add 7/8" to the finished measurement. So to verify LyndaOH's math, a finished 5 1/2" HST (raw 6") would need a square that is cut at 5 1/2" + 7/8" which equals 6 3/8".
So basically cut the squares at 6 1/2".
Pair up the colors as the pattern tells you & make your HST
Then trim them down to 6". They will finish at 5.5".

I see what you're saying. I'm including an EQ7 diagram of the block to see if I understand how it goes together. The grey area is the black in the pattern.

I think you'll still be fine cutting the strips at 6 1/2" and then cutting them diagonally once. When you sew them to the other half of the block, there will be a litte extra overhang but just align the long center seam with the other half of the block and leave that little extra at each end. You'll then trim your block to the correct size. Let me know if you want me to try and draw a little diagram of how to line of the two halves of the block.

You might also try marking the cutting line on your ruler as someone else suggested, just to see how that works for you. Sounds like less refiguring, etc. Good luck on your quilt and I hope your brother does well with his treatment.

If you want, there is a new Creative Grids ruler that just came out. I bought one at my LQS. It's called the Itty-Bitty Eighths (http://www.creativegridsusa.com/prod...=CGRPRG2&ref=c).

I don't worry about 3/8" -- I learned my early quilting watching Eleanor Burns and so I always over cut HST and other triangle blocks. I round up to the nearest half inch (I always buy at least an extra 1/2 yard of fabric when doing a pattern that does hst's or other similar blocks) and then I trim as needed. I prefer to trim than have a block too small because I did not see the 3/8 or 7/8 line correctly.

What is the size of each block (before joining blocks?)

Every helpful tip I've read has been a good tip. I will add to this this tip: ALWAYS -- just to be sure, and to allay fears that the resulting patch is the correct size -- MAKE ONE PATCH BY THE PATTERN'S DIRECTION. Then when you use all these tips, you can put the "squared down" patch next to your "template" (which is the patch you made exactly from the pattern) to assure you that even though you've taken measures to avoid the dreaded 3/8 cut, it's good. Hope this is helpful!

If in doubt, I always refer to the pattern instruction that EQ creates displayed in a previous post. I am not good with math anymore, but I like of oversize,stitch,starch,press and then trim. F&P do not agree with Eleanor Burns oversize method. You just have to find out thru trial and error what works best for you. Good Luck.

Bonnie hunter has a great tutorial for this...

https://youtu.be/wQ_AoJsGJbM

I know that most of you are familiar with this, but when you trim a square with triangle pieces in it, you can't just trim it square. You have to make sure the triangle seams in the block line up with the triangle line on the ruler. That is the most important step. And if you have other seams too, as in the Boston Block or the one you are making, keep an eye on those too. Look all around the outside to see if your points are where they belong. It's not hard, just time consuming.

My personal opinion........any measurements that have 3/8 ... 7/8...etc. should always be rounded up then trimmed after sewn.
Since I don't design patterns I am curious why they can't do them without the 3/8......7/8......

I have a question about this question!! If you round up to 1/2" won't the pattern come out the same just a bit bigger? My brain is non-math so sometimes my ideas don't work...

I was wondering the same thing

The absolute best ruler for squaring up HSTs is one called the Bloc Loc ruler at www.blocloc.com. It has a little groove that your 1/4" seam sits in down the middle and nestles right up to your seam. It won't shift and makes squaring up so easy. Get the biggest one which is 6 1/2" and you can use it for smaller sizes too of course. I love, love, love this ruler!