Joining batting
 

What kind of tape is used to join batting pieces? Will the tape hold or do I need to also sew the pieces together?

don't know about others - but i always overlap about 3/8" and run a zig-zag stitch over it.

I don't overlap because i don't want a bump - I will butt the edges together and zig zag. I generally don't use heat adhesives....just personal preference and often times i can sew them faster than using the iron.

I use a tricot fusible interfacing that I have left over from garment making. Cut a 1" or 1 1/2" strip, butt the edges together and iron it on. Much cheaper than the "Batting Tape". About $3-$4 yard at Joanns.

The batting tape is fusible nylon tricot. The batting tape is enough assuming you will be quilting over the area. If you are tying a quilt, you may want to reinforce the join with a machine zigzag.

You can buy batting tape.

http://www.connectingthreads.com/too...r__D21128.html

It works great. No sewing required. However, it felt to me like it is just lightweight nonwoven fusible interfacing in a strip, so I've started just buying cheap interfacing and cutting my own strips. Very easy. Fairly cheap. I've done several quilts that have been washed many times. So far, all is well.

I am on the side of just but the two pieces together and zig zag. I have more notions than I can usually find when needed... so one more and my sewing room might just burst.

I use fusible interfacing on my Warm & Natural cotton batting, which is just butted together.

I've tried a few ways and what I find easiest is to put the 2 pieces on top of each other, trim a straight edge, pin and sew thru both with a blind hem stitch. Then I open it up and rub my finger along the seam to smooth it out. I found it easier than the zig zag way. Try different methods on some scraps and see which you like best.

When I bought my Bernina I took a class to learn all the things my machine would do. One of the things they had us do was butt pieces of batting together and zig zag sew them together, no tape or anything else. No fat seams either!!

That is how I join batting together, too.

I am with 117Becca - I cut the batting with nice even sides and butt them together and use the largest zig zag stitch (width wide) and sew them together - much faster than ironing with fusible tape and they hold together nicely and then I hand or machine quilt the final project. Works great for me.

I use polyester high loft batting for 99 1/2% of my quilts and seems I am always having to add a piece. I have made several battings for a double size or a bit bigger quilts. I butt the edges together and sew them together - by hand using a large zig zag, works for me everytime.

I never overlap justy zig zag together. Why buy tape and do both just zig zag.

I overlap the batting edges and cut a long wavy curve through both layers. Then I butt the curves together and use a long wide hand zig-zag stitch. The curved seam is less visible and more secure than a straight one in my experience, and hand stitching doesn't crush the batting any. It only takes a few minutes and works well for me.

This is my method. Works great!

I overlap the batting, then cut a wavy line within the overlapped section. Make sure the peaks and valleys of the wavy line are not extreme so that it is easier to manipulate through the machine as you sew. Separate the two pieces of batting again and remove the wavy scraps. Then abut the two pieces of batting, interlocking the wavy lines. Zig-zag to join the pieces. I find this holds very well and the wavy seam is practically undetectable below the quilt top vs. a zig-zagged straight-line.

I've tried the Tricot but next time I think I will try the wavy line zig zag method. I have a Bernina 649 and it makes a really wide zig zag

I just bump them up next to each other and zigzag stitch...no bump no issues and very easy