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That's a great tip Watson! I'll have to try it.
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Check your block sizes every time you start sewing or start a different fabric combination. Different fabrics can affect your seam allowance -- and sew can sitting down to sew (your position can be different so the way you eye the needle and the seam guide can change). Being off by and inch in you position can change your perspective.
Starch fabric stiff if you are going to have bias edges -- this makes it much less likely you will stretch the bias out of shape. |
I have so many tips, but . . . I would say one of the most important is to measure EVERY block as you complete it. Better to know immediately if there is a problem than to wait til everything is done or -- worse yet -- until you are stitching the blocks together. I trim the too-big blocks and haul out the seam ripper if they are too small.
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4 Attachment(s)
Learn to use 1/4 inch gridded graph paper to draw out designs with a pencil, 6" ruler, and colored pencils.
Learn how versatile the "snowball" block can be. (3 variations shown below.) You can even use the technique on rectangles. Jan in VA |
Jan thanks for diagram I'm just about to start on some snowball blocks. I am right in thinking the seam should be a thread or two to the right of the sewn line?
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Square up each block before sewing them together. It didn't occur to me to do this when I first started, and it's the thing that has made the biggest difference for me.
Chain piecing has also helped save time and helps me sew straighter (like Kathy said, it's the last inch that goes crooked). |
Originally Posted by Tartan
(Post 7761201)
My newest favourite tip I shared on QB about making a single hole plate out of tape for my machine to prevent it eating triangles while piecing.
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Originally Posted by rryder
(Post 7761143)
What Jane and Kathy said, also learning how to press without distorting blocks, esp. HST blocks. And, for those times when you need to be extra precise matching seams or getting good points when joining blocks or rows- use your sewing machine to baste all the intersections before sewing the entire row or block.
The way I do it is: 1. take a few stitches at each intersection (do Not baste in between the intersections). 2.open them up to see how they look 3. take out and readjust any that need it. 4. Sew down entire row or block making sure to sew exactly over the basting stitches when you come to each intersection. This has saved me a lot of ripping out over the years. Rob |
Originally Posted by cannyquilter
(Post 7761893)
Jan thanks for diagram I'm just about to start on some snowball blocks. I am right in thinking the seam should be a thread or two to the right of the sewn line?
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I glue the intersections with Elmer's School Glue or Washable Glue stick
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