Pellon 911 for t-shirt quilts from JoAnn's or where ever you can find it. That number I can remember -911.

You can check WalMart on line for prices of long lengths of Pellon products for comparatively reasonable prices.

I've done 12--used Pellon 911FF (I find that some t-shirts are very thin and stretchy, others not so much so this makes them all stable, have also used French Fuse but it does have some stretch so you have to make sure the direction of it--I fine the Pellon cheaper in long run). Bree123 gave you good advice. I would nix the idea of flannel on the back--once you have the t-shirt's stablized and either sew to sashing or to another stablized t-shirt the seams are heavier than when it's just seams of 2 cottons fabrics--the bat will help keep the bulkier seams from being felt so easily on the back. I'd go with wool if you think a cotton will be too warm--it's more expensive, but probably worth it for your quilt. I'd definitely do some FMQ across the whole quilt--that way you can go around/through the logos of the t's in a way that doesn't distract but still gets the quilt spacing correct (about every 4").

Thank you everyone, I copied all the responses into a word document. We will use the recommended Pellon 911 interface unless by chance all of our tshirts are 100% cotton. We won't use a flannel back. We will use cotton and a wool batting. I will help her with quilting around the logos.

Thanks everyone!

You really need a stabilizer if you want the blocks to look square. If you skip stabilizing, you will end up with irregular shaped blocks. If they're 100% cotton, it's a LOT easier -- just use Pellon 911. Pellon is designed only for use with 100% cotton fabrics. If you find out most of them are blends, Pellon products probably won't work very well & I'd recommend a 2-step process using a fusible web (Heat'n'Bond) and lightweight muslin. It's a bit heavier & doesn't drape quite as nice, but Pellon with blends usually has problems bonding. Heat'n'Bond fuses at a lower temperature, making it the better choice for non-cotton fabrics.

Make sure your interfacing is heavy enough to add stability to the squares. Unfortunately I have learned this lesson the hard way! I used a lighter weight interfacing on a quilt and I am fighting this quilt the entire way. I'm too far into the process to change now, but it has been a very valuable lesson learned.

Thanks Bree. I thought there were two kinds of pellon and I just needed to choose the right one. IF the tshirts are not 100% cotton we'll go with heat & bond.

I appreciate the hints given on this post as I also make t-shirt quilts. Thank you, ladies, for your input, and thank YOU, mjpEncinitas, for the question on interfacing.

I've used French Fuse interfacing with good results. Be sure you quilt AROUND the designs on the shirts, not over them. They create too much drag on the needle and you will have a lot of problems trying to sew on top of them.