Long Arm technical help
 

I consider myself an advanced beginner at long arming. I have gotten myself into a situation that I am confident you will be able to help with!
I have a baby-size quilt loaded on my long arm (BabyLock Regalia). The top consists of various scraps and cuts of baby clothes. The seams are very thick because of the type of material and the way they come together. I do not think they are too thick to sew through and I raised up my foot a little so it glides over smoothly. I tested it out by moving the unthreaded machine along the top and it seemed like it would work with no problem.
But.....
The height that my needle raises up during the stich sequence is not sufficient enough to clear the height of the material (in some spots). If i use the manual wheel to move the needle, there is plenty of room of course, but I cannot do that with every stitch! I plan to custom quilt in each square, so for the most part, I can avoid the thick seam lines. I am currently only in the basting phase and am having difficulty, so I imagine its not going to get any easier!
Is there a way to change the needle position height??? or anything else I can do?
Thank you so much. I ove my QB family!

Could you press the quilt flatter?

I tend to quilt around thick parts, and it works just fine.

You need to adjust the needle bar height. Look in your service manual for instructions.

The manual wheel should move the needle the exact same total distance as it moves when stitching. There would need to be some pretty interesting mechanism to keep it in time if it's otherwise. However if it's like my HQ, it normally stops a bit past the highest point as that is where you need to be to have the top thread fully released from the bobbin hook. So every time the needle stops, I can move it to a higher position, but that is it's full travel when sewing.

Changing the needle height will mess up your timing. It's not that hard to do as there is normally a set screw you can release to adjust the needle height. However - you do this to line it up with the hook at it's lowest point, otherwise the hook won't grab the top thread and you'll have skipped stitches. Sometimes this is a "weakest link" part so that if you hit something really hard the needle bar may slip instead of something bending.

I have a bowl (glide) foot for my machine that will allow me to move over thick seams without anything catching. It does limit visibility somewhat even though it's clear plastic. But is sure is nice not having the foot catch on bulky seams.

Macybaby raises 2 excellent points, especially the timing concern.

I believe the Regalia is a rebadged Handi Quilter Amara. HQ sells a glide foot which is useful for going over bulk.

You might also try the FB group for the Amara to ask what others do or if you run into a question on timing the machine contact Keith Hayes at Longarm Tech

It's a good idea to learn how to time your machine, however I think it would be best to call for technical help before doing so. If the needle at its lowest point is not able to clear the fabric, then I don't see how a different foot would help. The needle is attached to the needle bar, not to the foot. Or am I missing something?

I actually like sewbizgirl's suggestion - quilt around those thick spots!

on my Gammill I can reset needle bar height and needle rotation (height it stops at). Needle bar height means a re-timing, needle rotation does not. check your manual or on-line to see if you can adjust the needle rotation. If your hopping foot is not getting hung up on those seams, and it stitches over them ok, but the needle is dragging when you must move the machine, then adjusting the needle rotation will solve the issue. Good luck. Wish I could give more guidance but not familiar with your machine.

If the seams are massive you could also try a 3lb hammer to flatten them some--don't laugh!

I have what is called a cup foot that works beautifully for thicker fabrics or seams. Can you get a cup foot for yours?

One thing about changing needle stop position, it's normally a bit on the downward side because the hook has to rotate far enough to fully release the top thread. If the needle stops at top dead center, that might not always happen and then you'll have issues when you attempt to move the machine.

My stop position is about 1/4" past the top point. at that position, the tip of needle is still above the foot, but not by that much. So when I need to thread the needle, I have to turn it so the needle is fully up so I can see and get my fingers in there better.