I have heard of a "bobbin gadget" to help "insure" the tension of your longarm bobbin is going to be correct. I can't remember what it was called. I'm sure someone here knows what it is, and let me know from everyone that has one....is it worth the price and does it really work? I think I remember that it was around $80 or $90. Is there a catalog that has them?

P.S.....I recently had a terrible time trying to quilt a quilt that had batiks for some of the patchwork. My HQ16 just made horrible skipped stitches on the batiks, but not the other cottons. Anyone had this experience? That's why I'm looking into this bobbin gadget. Appreciate suggestions/comments about this, too.

That would be the TOWA gauge.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7tzbj8_3fI

Yes I have had problems on batiks also.

I think I may have to buy some bobbin genies she seems to like them! I still am not sure what the purpose of the towa is.

You can buy a TOWA gauge here.

http://columbiariverquilting.com/tow...ion_guage.html

DID you see the price of that thing? No thanks. I sent you a PM.

No thanks neither me too.

Yup, I just suffered through one. Not only skipped stitches, but the thread frayed and broke every time I came to a batik fabric. I was planning on making myself a batik king quilt, but after that experience, I may change my mind.

It's a Towa, and it's worth it's weight in gold. However, on the HQ16 (that's what I have) and the batiks, your issue may be one of several things. If it's making any noise, as well as skipping, it can mean dull needle or needle is too big. Skipped stitches often mean tension is too tight on either top or bottom or both, or the thread may be dry, or the bobbin wound incorrectly.

I'd say start with some silicon drops (Sewers Aide) and spread 4-5 rows on thread. This helps so much, for a variety of things, and is also worth it's weight in gold. Try this first, test, then try loosing your upper tension 1/2 turn and test, then loosen bobbin and test. Also, loosen the quilt tension (we do tend to quilt with those way too tight which will alone cause skipped stitches) a couple of notches. Just some ideas that helps me.

Have you joined the HQ16 Yahoo Group? It's a great place for help and advice specific to our machine. Lots of wonderful helpful people on there -and tons of items to research through.

Hope this helps,
Debbie in Austin

Batiks are simply known to be difficult at times, depending upon the fabric, regardless of machine brand. It's just such a dense fabric. I don't tend to have as much problem, but I think I run my tensions (quilt and thread) pretty loose and don't hesitate to use Sewers Aide if I'm having any sort of problem.

Again, I'd recommend joinging the HQ16 Yahoo Group, if you haven't already. Great place for help from hundreds of HQ owners.

Debbie in Austin

The Towa allows you find a number associated with 'perfect tension' on your particular machine. Once you have it, you can easily and quickly adjust every single new bobbin to that same number, pop it in and go. Easy peasy :) No playing around or wondering if the tension is the issue or playing righty-tighty, lefty-loosey games. Just pull the thread, read the number, turn the screw to adjust to your correct number, and pop it in and quilt. Perfect everytime, regardless of thread, thread weight, thread content, fabric, etc.

I love mine.
Debbie in Austin

How do you know what the "perfect tension" is for your particular machine?
Thanks,
Sherryl

i totally agree with dgmoby above about the batik's i have an HQ 16 also and i sew with batik's all the time...a NEW needle the right size for your thread is definitly necessary. if you hear 'popping' when stitching on them your needle point is gone, you need a sharp needle, and i have found if i slow down a bit that helps. batiks are such wonderful fabrics i would hate for you to not use them because of this, takes a little practice to figure out the best speed/thread/needle/tension combinations but once you figure it out, it's well worth it.

The Towa gauge is great, but have you tried the Magna Glide bobbins by Filtech? They are fantastic!
www.bobbincentral.com

Debbie in Austin.....I have done all that you mentioned. However, I might have had my quilt tension too tight...that's a possibility. I will probably get the Towa and the Sewers Aid...I haven't heard about this product. I did join the HQ group on Yahoo, early on getting my machine. I posted my question..only got a couple of replies, but they have always been most helpful with things I've questioned or had issues with.

i made a whole quilt with batiks and quilted it on my tin l adjusted tennsions no problems

I did try these, but found out they aren't needed if the bobbin is adjusted correctly. So, now I have a package that sites unused. I just make sure my bobbin backlash screw is adjusted correctly, and it takes care of everything. No backlash at all. I think these are one of those things sold that work if you don't know how to adjust the bobbin correctly, but no one really needs it - just learn about adjustments. At least that's what I found out works for me.

(The backlash screw is located on the FRONT of the bobbin case and is even tinier than the tension screw. Adjust it and test every turn - about 2 minutes worth, until your bobbin rides just right. Test using letters O, T, M, and S - if all look good, your set.)

Debbie in Austin

Do try the Sewer's Aide. I use it so much that I keep an extra full bottle always. It's simply a life saver. I use it regardless of thread type and fabric - it's usually one of the first things I try becuase it works so well.

On the HQ list, if you didn't get a response, sometimes things are simply overlooked, or people get busy like on many lists, but it's an extremely helpful list. You can alwasy repost stating you're still looking for help - I would. Also, follow up with any additional comments, such as 'That didn't work for me'? Otherwise, folks may think whatever was suggested did work and all is well. Anyway, it's just a thought. The list is ever so helpful for me, and especially when I first got my machine...now I'm one of the oldies :) In addition, you can always call HQ as well - goodness knows they are the most helpful bunch :)

Sometimes to fix a machine/locate a problem, requires much patience and a bunch of trial and error testing. There are sometimes just no quick magic fixes, and you have to keep working on it. I know I spent many months in intensive investigation EVERY time I had a tension issue, in order to learn the details about tensions. I now know more than some of the HQ folks and my rep, which is surpising, but I did study it hard. I do demand this expensive machine allow me to quilt the way it should, using 2 colors/weights of thread regardless of fabric, etc. with perfect stitches everytime, etc. It took a lot to learn the 'secrets' for my machine, but I did, through trail and error. (For example, I've never seen anywhere any discussion on how to adjust the bobbin case for backlashing, and I disovered it by accident, and folks were amazed it existed, me too! I was told it was a 'trade secret'...but not anymore - I tell everyone who needs it!) So don't give up, keep trying, and keep asking. You'll find the answer!

Hope you get the issue resolved,
Debbie in Austin (who is apparently WAY too wordy!)

You can start with a number or two that works for others with your type of machine. Then keep adjusting until you get good tension. When that happens, put it in the Towa and record the number and thread type. I keep a list on my wall because I have a brain tumor thus a terrible memory. Then with all new bobbins, I shoot for that number.

I have found, that with some specific thread combinations, top and bobbin, when I hit that number the tension is still just a tad off, so I'll adjust the bobbin, test again, and when it gets perfect, I record that new number below the first one, along with the top and bobbin thread info (brand & weight) and the batting info. This way, the next time I work with this combo, I know right off the bat that the 'adjusted' number works better for it than my original number. This simply happens once in awhile for specific combos, but even so, you're already starting almost right on the money and it only requires a tad of a tweak to get it perfect.

Hope this helps - but if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Debbie in Austin

What needle size, thread and batting are you using? The issue could be with any of the these, or the quilt tension as you mentioned.

Debbie in Austin

(The backlash screw is located on the FRONT of the bobbin case and is even tinier than the tension screw. Adjust it and test every turn - about 2 minutes worth, until your bobbin rides just right. Test using letters O, T, M, and S - if all look good, your set.)

Thanks, Debbie, so much for your info. No one has ever told me about this backlash screw. I will certainly try this. I guess it's righty-tighty & lefty-loosey?

I'd say start with some silicon drops (Sewers Aide) and spread 4-5 rows on thread. This helps so much, for a variety of things,

Do you mean to spread the Sewers Aide up and down the cone of thread in 4-5 rows? Does it saturate before using the thread, or do you have to reapply it during the quilting process? Just exactly what does it do to the thread? You have been most helpful. BTW, I did have a new size 16 needle and the lady had sent polyester batting to use in her quilt. Also, the quilt backing was a densely woven cotton also.

If you will take a nice long look at your bobbin case, you will find that there are indeed two screws on the outside, one large and one small. The large one is for adjusting your bobbin tension. I don't know what the small one is for, but I don't see how it can have anything to do with the backlash spring.

On the inside, there is a thin piece of metal, that is slightly bent and it is removable. It looks like a perforated washer. THAT is your backlash "spring" or "brake". THAT is what controls backlashing.

It can't be flat, or it won't work right. They DO wear out. You can rebend it so that the "spring" is back. I keep these in stock for both my longarm and my sewing machines.

How your thread spools off the cone also contributes to the amount of backlashing you will experience. I don't typically have any trouble with backlashing myself, until my backlash spring is worn out, but the magnetic core bobbins (Magna Glides) totally and completely eliminate this issue, because the backlash spring is removed, and the magnetic core does all the controlling.

It's much more precise.