Machine Timing
 

So what causes a sewing machine to lose it's timing? I'm not even sure that this is worded correctly. I have an old JC Penny work horse that I love. Twice in the last 3 months I have had timing issues and have had to have it serviced. Now it is happening again, this time just after the 30 day warranty has expired. I've taken it to 2 different shops for repair. Is it time for a new machine? And if it is what machines should I look at. I can't afford an expensive machine. I'm just really frustrated.

Hi Heronfan, Long time no chat!

The timing can be thrown off by a few things. I too have an old JCPenny workhorse, circa 1978 or so. I'm not sure if the hook is driven by gears or a belt on those machines. I have long since retired mine and only use it as an emergency backup. If the belt is going that could be causing your machine to go out of time more often like you describe. Then the belt should have been replaced. You can adjust the timing on a machine without replacing a drive belt. In fact most often that is the servicing they will do. They usually don't replace the drive belt unless there is obvious wear or it completely stretched out of shape. I know on my machine there was a drive belt that ran the needle bar (needle going up and down) and there were adjusting gears that could be moved out to compensate for a belt that had stretched out of shape from use to put the tension back on it. It is possible the same goes for the hook (aka bobbin race) and perhaps your last two servicing they simply adjusted those gears that the belt runs on. It may be time for a new belt if yours is similar to mine.

Other things that can cause it, if the needle hits a presser foot or needle guard or you try to stitch through several layers of heavy fabric that could do it too, especially if your belt is worn.

What I would do in your situation is:

(1) check Goodwill and other thrift stores in your area for a working vintage machine. They seem to be available in spurts where I am. When I can find one, the cost is usually around $35 or so. Check to make sure the cords are supple; you don't want really old cords or frayed cords. I usually test first by manually turning the hand wheel, just to make sure that the machine isn't frozen. All places have electrical outlets; you can move the machine closer to an outlet to make sure that the machine runs. Bring your own thread and fabric (and generic needles and wound bobbins, if you like) to test that the machine actually makes a stitch when you turn the hand wheel. I also usually fiddle with any knobs and levers a bit. Know the return policy of the shop you are in; the best places to shop allow returns with a receipt within 7 to 30 days. One thrift shop I know does not allow returns on sewing machines, so at that place I do extra testing within the store and usually take only really inexpensive machines. Often cabinet machines are a better buy than portables, simply because fewer people want the challenge of the extra weight of a cabinet and the difficulty of transporting it.

(2) Check out the Brother machines at Walmart. These machines tend to run about $100 to $250 depending on number of decorative stitches. Many quilters on the board here are happy with these machines. Be sure to try it out immediately. Walmart is very good about taking a machine back if you don't like it.

I suspect feline fanatic is correct about the belt(s) in your old machine. If you absolutely love this machine, I would keep it and wait until I had more money to take it in to a repair person -- explaining about the history with timing and asking for replacement of belt and anything else that could be causing the problem. There is no guarantee, though, that this will give you a reliable machine to work on. That's why I would look for another machine first.