Feathers should ALWAYS stitch "clockwise" direction, if making waves of feathers
or circles of feathers or feathers following around the border, have them flowing clockwise. And ALWAYS give your feathers a border, draw a line away from your stem line, and run your loops out to that line to create your feather. Also, leave a little border between the feather and the 'ditch' of the pieced block, this allows the feather to pop/stand out. When creating feathers use 3 sizes in the loops, this is called Frackle/a repeated pattern. When doing circles, the largest circle divided by 1/3s this is the sizes of the 3 circles you should use for fill space (which is stipple). Circles always go to the left, never back and forth like a figure 8. And if your circle isn't perfect, do NOT restitch it 2-3 times trying to make it a round circle, just move on. ALWAYS stop at a beginning point, never the middle of a circle or feather loop. And always work back to the beginning before the next loop. When using a contrasting thread or varigated thread, you must be more accurate. Blended threads are more forgiving. Judges will notice the border/binding and backing even more than your piece work. Break up one large border feathering with caviots (diamonds or swirls) to make it interesting. When stitching "rays" always stitch the center, then the outer two, then the inner lines. Decide the width of your "echo" stitching, by using the foot, either inner or outer circle width from the needle. Never mark a quilt with chalk, these new Frixion pens work beautifully, disappear completely with the iron. The pens are from 'Pilot', found at Office Depot or Office Max or Staples. When quilting, do your "free motion" stitching FIRST, then do your ditch work frame stitching... this is opposite of what most have been taught, but keeps quilt from puckering. Stitch from the center out on blocks, and always one continuous line following back to the beginning over stitches, why using an embroidery ball needle is important, it won't cut threads like quilting sharp needles do. I had learned before to do ditch stitching first...but what she taught made sense, and hey, she's the one winning awards, I paid to learn, right. |
There is a "slider" plastic with a needle hole, put this on your machine,
eliminates static, and she uses 100wt Silk thread (22-25 stitch/inch) to quilt. 3 strands of thread should float through the eye of your needle. 5 strands of thread lined up next to each other is the shortest stitch you should use, and never more than 8 threads wide. ***If your using a long arm machine, even the smaller short arms, you can control bounce with bags filled with rice, she uses a hand towel stitched shut down center & both ends, filled with rice, and sometimes she'll use 1-2-3 bags, to eliminate bounce of the quilt and keep it taught. If you have any hand tremour, even just from being tired or nervous or a little weak/illness, use weighted gloves. They were on sale at JoAnns (bright green items) that help your 'body' for sewing, these avg. $20-25 on sale for $3-5. She also sewn her own leaders, the width of the area you can stitch on your long arm, with a 1"PVC pipe sewn into a sleeve at one end where your long arm table clamps will hold onto. Then she uses 'T' pins to pin the leader to the bottom/back of your quilt, this gives a more even tension than clamps alone. Sharon Shamber always floats her tops. She will load the back fabric, & roll all to the back, alwys first. She never presses, she uses Starch, spray the fabric, and wait a minute and wrinkles magically disappear. Sew velgro to both leaders & use water soluble thread to the other velcro to your backing so you can remove the quilt...or best is to finish one quilt first. When you load it, measure with tape measure around the leader poles at both ends and middle to make sure your poles have not warped or bend, this will distort your quilt...if you have flimsy poles, put a thick dowel or PVC through center of your poles, to stabilize & strengthen them, or replace with thicker stronger polls. Baste the 3 layers (top, batting, backing) to the north pole/top roller. Baste at sashing or grid lines you've folded in, horizontally using your long arm to baste across. Baste as you go, not the whole quilt, but as you roll it forward to each new section. Well, I hope all my notes have helped. LOTS of things to think of. Deb D |
Deb D
Thank you thank you thank you for all of the notes! Wow! I have never seen anything so thoroughly explained. Thank you for finding all of that info for me. I bet that was just an awesome class to take. I really appreciate the tips. Definitely something I will be referencing back on. You should start a new thread a repost everything you just shared with me. So much useful info to share. Thank you so much. |
Originally Posted by featherweight
Guess there was not enough room above for my comment. Yes, they are with the pens. One store had them and the next one didn't. Went to Staples and they had them 3 for 5.50. one red one blk and one blue. We paid 4.00 apiece for them at the quilt show before we found them at the store for half the price.
|
I have a silver pencil and a yellow pencil. Both are for fabric marking. Not only do you need to worry about how to REMOVE the line, but you also need to check which type of marker shows up well and lasts on your fabric.
I would suggest that you test on a piece of scrap to see how to remove <whatever> method you use. There are fabric erasers and there are washcloths and a bit of soap. |
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.
|
Originally Posted by LovinMySoldier
Originally Posted by featherweight
Guess there was not enough room above for my comment. Yes, they are with the pens. One store had them and the next one didn't. Went to Staples and they had them 3 for 5.50. one red one blk and one blue. We paid 4.00 apiece for them at the quilt show before we found them at the store for half the price.
|
Originally Posted by gale
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.
|
I meant a quilt you don't put a lot of expensive fabric into or extreme detail...to me, those are my crap quilts, simple patterns & JoAnn fabrics. Not that the quality of the quilt is crap, or I'm making crap to donate. I really should have used a different word..."more simple" quilts. I'm sorry... over medicated cold here, not thinking.
|
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
I meant a quilt you don't put a lot of expensive fabric into or extreme detail...to me, those are my crap quilts, simple patterns & JoAnn fabrics. Not that the quality of the quilt is crap, or I'm making crap to donate. I really should have used a different word..."more simple" quilts. I'm sorry... over medicated cold here, not thinking.
|
you should test what ever you want to try to use. just because it came out of my quilt does not mean it will come out of yours! i have had good luck with chalk and with just a pencil, but i always test to see if it will show-up enough and wash out. i ruined a quilt by using a (disappearing-ink) pen a quilt shop owner insisted was what i should be using. now i test everything, and i use what ever can be the lightest and least amount of marking as possible.
|
Originally Posted by ckcowl
you should test what ever you want to try to use. just because it came out of my quilt does not mean it will come out of yours! i have had good luck with chalk and with just a pencil, but i always test to see if it will show-up enough and wash out. i ruined a quilt by using a (disappearing-ink) pen a quilt shop owner insisted was what i should be using. now i test everything, and i use what ever can be the lightest and least amount of marking as possible.
|
Originally Posted by featherweight
Originally Posted by ckcowl
you should test what ever you want to try to use. just because it came out of my quilt does not mean it will come out of yours! i have had good luck with chalk and with just a pencil, but i always test to see if it will show-up enough and wash out. i ruined a quilt by using a (disappearing-ink) pen a quilt shop owner insisted was what i should be using. now i test everything, and i use what ever can be the lightest and least amount of marking as possible.
|
Originally Posted by LovinMySoldier
Originally Posted by featherweight
Originally Posted by ckcowl
you should test what ever you want to try to use. just because it came out of my quilt does not mean it will come out of yours! i have had good luck with chalk and with just a pencil, but i always test to see if it will show-up enough and wash out. i ruined a quilt by using a (disappearing-ink) pen a quilt shop owner insisted was what i should be using. now i test everything, and i use what ever can be the lightest and least amount of marking as possible.
|
I loved this thread... I, too, had concerns as to marking a quilt for "quilting". A very dear and a quilter since I think she was 2 yrs old had told me to use the disppearing ink pen. WEll I did pick up a blue one and proceeded happily along and drew out the entire pattern over the entire quilt top. The next day all I had to was set it on the machine and go for it. I have to tell you from personal experience that in doing that, by the next morning everything had already disappeared. DUH... but a learning experience is always a good experience as a bad experience is one that you will never made again. Still giggling over that wonderful job I had done.. undone.
|
Originally Posted by bluestarmom
I loved this thread... I, too, had concerns as to marking a quilt for "quilting". A very dear and a quilter since I think she was 2 yrs old had told me to use the disppearing ink pen. WEll I did pick up a blue one and proceeded happily along and drew out the entire pattern over the entire quilt top. The next day all I had to was set it on the machine and go for it. I have to tell you from personal experience that in doing that, by the next morning everything had already disappeared. DUH... but a learning experience is always a good experience as a bad experience is one that you will never made again. Still giggling over that wonderful job I had done.. undone.
|
Originally Posted by bluestarmom
I loved this thread... I, too, had concerns as to marking a quilt for "quilting". A very dear and a quilter since I think she was 2 yrs old had told me to use the disppearing ink pen. WEll I did pick up a blue one and proceeded happily along and drew out the entire pattern over the entire quilt top. The next day all I had to was set it on the machine and go for it. I have to tell you from personal experience that in doing that, by the next morning everything had already disappeared. DUH... but a learning experience is always a good experience as a bad experience is one that you will never made again. Still giggling over that wonderful job I had done.. undone.
|
I use and have very good luck with the childrens washable Crayola markers. I like using the thin ones vs the wide. Make sure they say washable on the marker. I have used them many times and have not had a problem with them washing out. They come in a package of many colors.
Judy in Michigan |
That is a great idea....I use the Golden Threads paper and hate picking it out!!! Never gave your idea a thought and sounds really easy to do....
|
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
I took a class from Sharon Shamber, who LOVES the Pilot Frixion pens. We did this in class, amazing how a hot iron makes it totally disappear.
http://www.sharonschamber.com/Home%20Page.htm |
great tip, thanks for sharing with us
Originally Posted by Gal
I use the Hera marking tool or water soluable artist quality pencils for my hand quilting. I also use masking tape for straight lines.
Gal |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:58 PM. |