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Mathematically Challenged...
And, I can't "conceptualize" either.
Maybe someone can help. I need a backing for a quilt and the backing needs to be 80" by 56". I want the seam to run horizontally, across the width of the quilt, not vertically, along the length. How much fabric, at a regular 45" do I need to buy? Thanks, Watson |
Originally Posted by Watson
(Post 7891512)
And, I can't "conceptualize" either.
Maybe someone can help. I need a backing for a quilt and the backing needs to be 80" by 56". I want the seam to run horizontally, across the width of the quilt, not vertically, along the length. How much fabric, at a regular 45" do I need to buy? Thanks, Watson |
My method. Most fabrics have usable about 40 inches wide. Most times it doesn't matter whether you do WOF or LOF.
So divide 80/40 = 2 widths to make your length. 2 widths x 56 inches = 112 inches total length of fabric 112 inches divided by 36 inches in a yard = 3 yds (108 inches) + 4 inches = 3.11 Yds. Round the .11 up 1/8 (4.25") or 1/4 (9 inches) Edited to add: When I make my backings like this, I use a 1/2 inch seam allowance and iron the seam open. This takes most of the bulk out of the seam. |
Using Barb's calculations, I'd buy 3.5 yards. It might shrink a little when you launder it before use and you need extra on the ends - I like at least 2 inches (4 inches for 2 ends) , sometimes 3 (6). With a longarm, you might need more. (Remember to double the amount you allow for each end). 3.5 yards = 126". You need 112 + 1 for seam + 6 for ends=119", so 3.5 yards doesn't too allow much for shrinkage.
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For starters, I would also "assume" that the fabric only had 40 inches usable width.
Are you planning to have it long-armed? How much "extra" will you need? If I was doing the backing and needed 5-inches extra all around, I would buy 5-2/3 yards of fabric and would have leftovers. I would also wash it before cutting it. But I just checked - and you live in Canada where fabric is more expensive (usually) than in the USA. I don't remember if you are in the wash before cutting group or not - Anyway - I have found some fabrics have shrunk over two inches in width - some have shrunk over two inches in length - very very few that have not shrunk at all. |
I also would choose a wider backing. Would save money in the long run. There is a lot of 90" and even 118" at reasonable prices.
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I agree that the wider backing would be easier - and probably less expensive, in the long run.
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Cotton sheets from the thrift store...no seams and less $$$.
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I use the Robert Kaufman quilt calculator app. It gives yardage for both vertical and horizontal piecing.
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Thanks everyone.
I had already figured in the extra for long-arming, so I'm OK that way. I bought everything they had....3.7m, so that's just over 4 yards. Thanks, again! Watson |
Think about laying 2 pieces of your 45" and sewn together (selvages to selvage). This would make a piece approximately 84" wide (remember fabric is no longer 45" and you have your selvages). This gives you your seam horizontally. Now, you need the width - 56". You need 2 pieces because you used 2 lengths, so 2 x's 56" = 112". 108" is 3 yards, so you could get by with 3 1/8 yards. I would probably buy 3 1/2 yards. Hope this helps. If you aren't good at drawing things out on graph paper, you might take an old bed sheet , lay it out and with a sharpie, mark sizes on it (45", 54" 72", etc). Then use can lay it on the floor, fold it back to your expected quilt top size and lay out fabric on top of it to see how much you need. This is a bit more cumbersome, but, if you have a difficulty with paper drawings, this works!
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If the amount of fabric is "not quite enough" - one can always put a contrasting band/strip - or band/strips - to make it look like it was a design choice.
I had - at one time - assumed that all quilting type fabrics were 45 inches wide. I had this top that was about 84 inches wide - should have been plenty. WRONG! That's when I learned about adding strips to make it look like this was what I had really wanted to do all the time anyway! |
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