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LOL...worked with it last evening !! I used the right needle and lowered the embroidery speen and still had a problem. I must have broken 5 needles and finally gave up.
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I use a silicone thread lubricant on metallic thread and it really helps with the breakage. Put it a squeeze bottle and squirt it all around the spool. Not greasy and you won't feel it on your hands. Great product. Got it when I bought my embroidery machine.
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Originally Posted by mucky
Use a metallic needle and it will work.
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Lots of great tips - sort of hard to remember them all when they are needed..........
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lower your tension
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Start you a journal with the tips you hear about needles, embroidery, sewing, anything worth saving because in the future you will need it. Long as I have been in the business I have tried many thing and oiling thread and using #16 Schmidtt needle , slower sewing is the best advice amyone can give you. Also very important is what you lay under the fabric. Also when I get into a real jam I use a spool of transparent thread to sew along with my metalic thread. Can't see the transparent and the other is stronger.
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I put thread heaven on spool and needle. Then put a thread net on spool. Or put spool in a small jar.
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I use metallics a lot. I have Floriani (expensive) & Threadart brands...the Threadart (shhh) is much better quality...the price is great also.
I use a TL18LS longarm & I also use on my Futura CE150 & Brother SE 270D embroidery/sewing machines. You have to loosen the tension until you can pull on the thread coming out of the needle and it does not break. Adjust the bobbin tension to match if you get loopies on the underside. Marge
Originally Posted by wilson4514
Is it me? I have tried different metallic threads with different bobbin threads and it always breaks. I am trying to do some thread painting and would love to use some beautiful metallics that I own. All help gratefully appreciated :)
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If you are using metallic thread on a spool, the thread has to be delivered from the side of the spool. If it is on a cone, or cross wound, it needs to be delivered off the top. That way you won't have extra twists in it. Did you know the metallic needle and the topstitch needle are identical? Well, they are. We contacted the large needle companies and they confirmed it. So, proper needle (90/14 for home machines or #19 for longarm machines), loosen the tension and proper bobbin tension will do the trick.
Ricci |
:thumbup:
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Are you using a metallic needle? I had the same problem so when I went to the sewing shop I asked and bought the metallic needle. No more breaks!
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Metalic's should never come off the spool unwinding from a spool standing straight up. It must roll of with the spool horizonally. It will not twist, which causes it to brake.
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Final update ladies..........and truly, thanks to all. I watched all Superior thread videos, "they are great" and very informative. While I was using metallic 90/40 needles the quality of thread, the tension where and how the thread is feeding off are hugely important. My granddaughter's quilt is coming along beautifully. I completed the princess' crown thread painting last night :). On to the dragon. Good luck to all
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Pictures please! Your quilt sounds like it's going to be really pretty!
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When it's a spool, yes straight out and off the backside of the spool...when it's a cone or mini-cone..thread should feed straight up to the guide above the cone, and that guide should directly above the cone.
Originally Posted by vickie1976
Metalic's should never come off the spool unwinding from a spool standing straight up. It must roll of with the spool horizonally. It will not twist, which causes it to brake.
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when it is finished, I promise I will post a pic
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Thanks, I love seeing others work...gives me ideas, lol!
Yours sounds really neat!
Originally Posted by wilson4514
when it is finished, I promise I will post a pic
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