Need help raw edge applique
 

Hello all

I have a raw edge appliqué project I'm working on. Method used was steam-a-seam Lite 2 .. all fabrics are batiks. When I've done raw edge in the past, I stitched along the edge with monofilament to make the appliqué permanent. I've never worked with light fabrics before though ... never had this problem.

See sample below (a test sample - not my project). See how the needle holes show so prominently on the light fabric? The dark fabrics are fine.

Using Sulky clear monofiliment top and bottom, dropped my needle size down to a Klasse Universal 60/8.

Any other suggestions to stitch down the lighter colored pieces? I don't like those needle holes showing on the piece. Some of my light fabrics are large pieces, some are tiny.

I would try a smaller needle, maybe a 9 and see how that does.

I would use a matching thread

if a matching thread is used, it will blend better and use a smaller needle like a 9 good luck, I love raw edge and do it all the time.

I am eager to see your finished product.

In addition to the smaller needle and using a thread that matches as opposed to the monofilament (to fill the holes better), I think I would switch to a top stitch or a Microtex sharp needle as opposed to a universal.

Batiks are a tighter weave than quilting cottons, I would try the smallest micro tex needle I could find. You could try using a 100 wt matching silk thread. Another option is make the stitching an accent in those pieces. Hope you post the finished top. Looks interesting!

I usually use a buttonhole stitch to prevent unraveling of the edge of the fabric on fusible applique. I always prefer to use matching thread. You might want to dab a little water on the quilt to see if the holes will disappear.

after the project is finished the holes should close up when it is laundered.

I agree with Feline Fanatic. Try a Microtex needle. Also, you might try spritzing it with a decent amount of water to see how much the holes will shrink up when wet. I also would at least switch out the bobbin thread to a matching cotton.

The Schmetz Microtex needles I have are sized 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14 and 100/16. I haven't seen a machine needle smaller than 60/8. I do not recommend using Universal needles.

I had this problem, too, on a turned edge machine applique project, except it was on the black fabric. I used a very small zig zag stitch, a 60/8 Schmetz microtex needle, and switched to a black silk thread, which is a 100 wt. thread.

Sometimes a wet brush (nail brush or old tooth brush) over the stitching helps close the holes.

I find when using batiks it is hard not to see the holes, however all the suggestions about smaller needle and matching thread will help. I also find that batiks don't fray as much as 100% cotton which makes a different looking edge.

I also think the smallest needle possible and fine silk thread would give a better outcome. It is a bit tricky because this portion is so prominent. Perhaps you could do these small portions by hand. If that does not produce the effect you want consider making the light spots a focal point with a design feature. Somehow I don't think you intend this piece to be laundered so thinking the holes would shrink out probably isn't realistic.

I use a blind hem stitch. Fewer holes show.

I am working on a similar project. I am using a fine needle and a fine thread but......but.......I am using the blind stitch sized to 1.5 width and 1.5 length having the straight stitch part run along the edge and the perpendicular part of the stitch go in towards the appliqué itself. Looks pretty good so far. Give it a try.

When this happens for me, I run a fingernail over the holes/stitches. I also sometimes will "warm" the heat n bond...I use a hair dryer when on the longarm. When I'm on my embroidery machine (15 needle), or regular sewing machine, I use a mini iron...warm the area, then go over with my fingernail...scratch lightly. These will close up later. I've had this happen many, many times.

I've done a few projects with raw-edge applique. The whole purpose for using the "invisible" nylon thread is to avoid the necessity of matching colors. My machine would not accept the invisible thread on the top and on the bottom -- it works fine to use it on the top, but not on the bottom. I also found that the holes disappear once the item is washed.

Just my 2 cents worth!

Jeanette

I have always had this happen while using any type of "invisible" thread! The holes didn't ever close up, and after hanging on the wall for a year, the invisible thread stretched, so now my project looks like a total mess. The other projects I made at the same time, and stitched using a small needle and regular thread, still look great. I have tried about 10 different types and brands of invisible thread, and have been disappointed by all of them.

The water helped a *little* ... not enough for me to actually like it. I also tried a 60/8 microtex needle, again, better but still not what I want.

The problem I discovered isn't the thread ... and for the most part not the needle. I suspect the problem is the fusible under the fabric ... in some cases there are 4 layers of fabric so 3 layers of fusing under it. I think the fusible is preventing the fabric from returning to it's shape (i.e. filling in the hole).

Another test I did pretty much proved this ... I layered 5 pieces of batik with nothing holding them together and stitched over it. No holes.

So I'm pretty bummed. Needle changes are not going to help, thread changes are not going to help, water is not going to help, and a hot iron is not going to help. Tried it all.

many years ago I did a raw edge appliqué that I designed by myself without instruction of any kind. I used a glue stick to keep my pieces together. Yes ... a glue stick. When the pieces were all placed (glued) I then did the same procedure using monofiliment to sew around the edges of every single piece. I did not have this problem with that piece.

Silly me ... I got a pattern and followed the directions to use a fusible and ... my project is a mess.

I use SoftFuse. It is very light. Perfect for layers of applique. It doesn't leave holes. Is it too late to use another fusible?