need help with stitch/needle/thread for thick purse seams
 

As many of you know, I have embarked on a purse making frenzie! I have made a couple with very stiff interfacing, but once you sew the seams together, and try topstitching, all you-know-what happens. I discovered the seams are loose (stitches don't seem to hold tightly enough so I can see daylight thru them), and sometimes when topstitching, stitches skip and are not uniform in size. I use a walking foot, and my machine sews everything else fine. What size needle, thread, tension ect should I be using for these really tough thick seams? It doesn't happen when I use fusible fleece or thinner interfacing, just this strong stuff (which some patterns call for). Thanks!

Thanks-wish I had an "old clunky" to use!

I too, use my trusty old Singer treadle to sew heavy duty stuff. I use a size 16 denim needle, lengthen my stitch and loosen the tension. Never had a problem doing it this way.

I agree with Val, use a size 16 needle and lengthen your stitches. Also would use a heavier thread.

try a top-stitch or universal needle in the appropriate size for your thread- probably a good 40 wt will work just fine. as for tension- you will probably have the best luck if you use the same thread in the top & bobbin- and just stitch a 'test' piece and adjust until your tension is equal- i've made lots of things using timtex (the heavy weight interfacing used for baseball hat brims) and have not had a problem --- i never use a walking foot though- i just use my regular 1/4" foot- you may need to slow down a bit too-

We all think alike, only I go "modern" with my 1948 Singer Featherweight for the thick seams. I agree with the jeans needle and longer stitch. My Brother won't do the topstitching on heavy seams either. Good luck. One idea is to try making your topstitching further away from the edge so you don't go through the seam allowances from the seam.

In addition to the above advice (all good) use a tailoring trick - put your thick seams on a tailoring "ham" - apply lots of steam and use a rubber mallet and literally hammer the seam. You will be amazed at the difference in thickness. I use an old wooden end table and cover my item with a cotton cloth before hammering it.

Thanks everyone-I will try it all! Top stitching isn't the only problem, when I seam the front to the back along the sides, then open it up, you see the stitches pulling apart-like it's just too loose-doesn't firmly join the seams. One I just finished says press the side seams open, which I did with lots of steam, but I could actually see daylight between the seams! Thanks again-hope at least one or all of your suggestions fixes it. I have a Brother PC420 I bought last year, and other than that, I love the machine.