Quiltingboard Forums

Quiltingboard Forums (https://www.quiltingboard.com/)
-   Main (https://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/)
-   -   Need helpo with Tipped Bricks Border (https://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/need-helpo-tipped-bricks-border-t259170.html)

saskjp 01-04-2015 10:42 AM

Need helpo with Tipped Bricks Border
 
Am trying to make this border but am not sure what offset I should use? Any help will be appreciated.

http://www.quilterscache.com/T/TippedBricksBorder.html

katier825 01-04-2015 10:46 AM

It says to do this:

Then sew them together staggered, with the background fabric extending 1/4" beyond the tips of the bricks, and using a rotary cutter and ruler, slice off any extra beyond that 1/4" seam allowance.

Tartan 01-04-2015 11:03 AM

Do you see in the picture how the ruler to cut a straight line is positioned so the the line on the ruler rests on the corner of the red but there is still 1/4 inch white beyond that line for the actual cutting line? You will position the white of the boder 1/4 up from the red corner as you sew, this gives you the seam allowance you need for sewing onto your quilt.

lots2do 01-04-2015 11:56 AM

Thanks for asking this, love the looks of it.

Jan in VA 01-04-2015 02:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Looks like it's a 45 degree tilt. You could also do a 30 degree tilt; both are on most 6" x 24" rulers and some 6" x 12" rulers.

When you have cut the borders, you will have bias edges on them.
Here's a little trick to help stabilize those biases. The graphic is not drawn exactly for your situation, but the idea still applies.

Jan in VA

tellabella 01-04-2015 04:15 PM


Originally Posted by Jan in VA (Post 7033848)
Looks like it's a 45 degree tilt. You could also do a 30 degree tilt; both are on most 6" x 24" rulers and some 6" x 12" rulers.

When you have cut the borders, you will have bias edges on them.
Here's a little trick to help stabilize those biases. The graphic is not drawn exactly for your situation, but the idea still applies.

Jan in VA

Can you tell me how you draw out the diagram and add the note,etc....

Kitsie 01-04-2015 04:52 PM

Could you make strips with white on the outside and red on the inside then cut them across? You could make several with a variety of different centers.

Cari-in-Oly 01-04-2015 05:02 PM

It looks to me like each brick is positioned halfway up(or down) from the one before it. If your brick is 4", position the edge of the next one at 2", dead center of the first one.

Cari

citruscountyquilter 01-04-2015 05:39 PM

This borer is similar to Seminole patchwork. If you google that you will see more examples and tips. When you have a string of strips like this they tend to curl and it is difficult to get a straight cut for any distance. To help with this I use painters tape and tape the end of the strip to the cutting mat. This way I can tug on the strip a bit to get it more straight. I also only line up my ruler for a few inches and trim that part then line up the next few inches and trim. Another thing that help immensely is to starch your fabric before you cut your initial strips. Starch really helps stabilize things

Jan in VA 01-04-2015 08:41 PM


Originally Posted by tellabella (Post 7033991)
Can you tell me how you draw out the diagram and add the note,etc....

I use the Microsoft Paint program on my laptop.
Thanks for asking.:)

Jan in VA

Barb_MO 01-04-2015 11:00 PM

You could make the end of each unit using a triangle that had the straight grain on the long side. I've done it the way this picture suggests and having the biase edge after trimming isn't easy to handle.

Gay 01-04-2015 11:46 PM

I agree with Cari-in-Oly. The end of each brick is placed half-way along the previous brick, and seems to be what you asked.

maviskw 01-06-2015 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by Barb_MO (Post 7034427)
You could make the end of each unit using a triangle that had the straight grain on the long side. I've done it the way this picture suggests and having the bias edge after trimming isn't easy to handle.

I think I would make them with the triangle this way. The triangle needs to be bigger than you think. Make a sample brick-set the way they say, then take off the white piece and study the shape of it. It sticks out a ways, as there is a short corner that would be snipped off.

ManiacQuilter2 01-06-2015 07:04 AM

Yes, this is very similar to seminole piecing. I know that Eleanor Burns has done some so you might find a video on her site QIAD. You have to be a very precise piecer in order for the borders not to have any waves in it.

madamekelly 01-06-2015 07:57 PM


Originally Posted by saskjp (Post 7033525)
Am trying to make this border but am not sure what offset I should use? Any help will be appreciated.

http://www.quilterscache.com/T/TippedBricksBorder.html

An example for you...if you use a white 2.5" x 2.5" square, then a red 2.5" x 4.5" rectangle, then another white 2.5" x 2.5" square sewed together in a strip, it would be the first set in your border. Make another, sew them together matching the seam between the first white and the red, to sew to the white first square of the second set, the seams will end up offset. Clear as mud?

madamekelly 01-06-2015 07:59 PM


Originally Posted by Jan in VA (Post 7033848)
Looks like it's a 45 degree tilt. You could also do a 30 degree tilt; both are on most 6" x 24" rulers and some 6" x 12" rulers.

When you have cut the borders, you will have bias edges on them.
Here's a little trick to help stabilize those biases. The graphic is not drawn exactly for your situation, but the idea still applies.

Jan in VA

Brilliant! Your helps are always ones I did not think of! Thank you again Jan!

maviskw 01-06-2015 08:41 PM


Originally Posted by madamekelly (Post 7036910)
An example for you...if you use a white 2.5" x 2.5" square, then a red 2.5" x 4.5" rectangle, then another white 2.5" x 2.5" square sewed together in a strip, it would be the first set in your border. Make another, sew them together matching the seam between the first white and the red, to sew to the white first square of the second set, the seams will end up offset. Clear as mud?

Then sew them together staggered, with the background fabric extending 1/4" beyond the tips of the bricks, and using a rotary cutter and ruler, slice off any extra beyond that 1/4" seam allowance. EXAMPLE: a 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" rectangle with 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" ends will give you an approx 4 1/4" wide border
EXAMPLE: a 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangle with 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" ends will give you an approx 6 1/4" border

The end pieces are not square with this pattern. I think I would make one exactly like their measurements before I went off on my own with other measurements.

madamekelly 01-06-2015 09:12 PM


Originally Posted by maviskw (Post 7036966)
Then sew them together staggered, with the background fabric extending 1/4" beyond the tips of the bricks, and using a rotary cutter and ruler, slice off any extra beyond that 1/4" seam allowance. EXAMPLE: a 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" rectangle with 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" ends will give you an approx 4 1/4" wide border
EXAMPLE: a 6 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangle with 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" ends will give you an approx 6 1/4" border

The end pieces are not square with this pattern. I think I would make one exactly like their measurements before I went off on my own with other measurements.

Thank you for the further clarity, you are right the end pieces should be your measurements not mine.

JoyjoyMarie 01-07-2015 08:50 AM

I've been reading this post - love the look of these borders. Just thinking about Jan's twill tape idea, in addition to beaucoups starch, I would also consider using a 1 inch piece of lightweight fusible interfacing to stabilize the edge to avoid the bias ripple effect. My quilts are known (to me) as big ripplers, so you've got me thinking about what to do about it!!


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:01 AM.