Tartan always gives the best advise.......she knows everything. I vote we keep her, and I am sending her balloons. <:)
(no sarcasm here, just luvs and hugs from an admiring QB member) |
I agree with the others, Tartan's advice regarding Anka's Treasures is spot on! She also has great print out on how to cut bias binding on her site. I pull it out every time I need to cut on the bias.
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Post 2, 6, 8 & 9, all great information.
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You must cut the binding on the bias when going around curves. It will make life much easier for you. Check out a tutorial on how to make bias binding. Good luck.
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My 100plus year old quilts with curved edges (from my grandmother and aunts) like you show have hand applied double fold bias binding, just like I use on my modern quilts (except mine is put on by machine). Look at some tutorials and go for it.
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The advice you've received so far is exactly what I would have said - you do need bias binding,but you can do it as French fold if you want. I have done French fold (normal double-layer quilt binding) on curves when I wanted the extra durability of a double layer, and it worked out fine.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that you have marked your sewing line on the quilt. It's much easier to mark where the edge of the binding should go - you won't be able to see the stitching line once you place the binding on top, so the edge line is easier to follow. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by Jennifer23
(Post 7858868)
The advice you've received so far is exactly what I would have said - you do need bias binding,but you can do it as French fold if you want. I have done French fold (normal double-layer quilt binding) on curves when I wanted the extra durability of a double layer, and it worked out fine.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that you have marked your sewing line on the quilt. It's much easier to mark where the edge of the binding should go - you won't be able to see the stitching line once you place the binding on top, so the edge line is easier to follow. Good luck! |
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