Older threads
 

Hello- I recently watched Tula on YouTube and she mentioned that you can use the better brands of thread as they get older, which was news to me.

I’m going through my collection and keeping the Madeira, Isacord and Sulky branded threads and ignoring the Coats brand.

I have a lot of Robison Anton threads. I’m not familiar with these. Which pile should these go in, in your opinion? Should they go with the Coats or the Sulky pile?

Thank you!!

To test whether or not a thread should be discarded do a ( tug test) you pull out about 18” of thread, wrap it around both hands and give a good tug- if it breaks its time to get rid of it- if it’s strong and doesn’t break its a keeper. I’ve had brand new spools of expensive name brand thread that wasn’t usable and I’ve had 40 year old thread still usable. Name doesn’t matter, age doesn’t matter. How it has been stored matters. You can buy thread that was in a warehouse for a long time before it got to the store and heat/ humidity/ packaging wasn’t up to par and it’s no good from the start.

I would use them all as long as there were no issues with breaking or shredding. Use them up. You can pull out a section of thread approx 15 to 20 inches. Wrap around your hands and pull/snap the thread to check if it breaks easily.

PS: I use threads until there are issues with breaking. Quite often the issue is solved with replacing the needle or changing type/size of needle.

Ok so I shouldn’t give up on the Coats then. I’ve read a lot of people saying that brand doesn’t work well in the newer machines. Likewise, I’ll have to test the ‘good’ ones.

Thank you.

I have lots of cotton covered polyester Dual Duty Coats & Clark thread. I didn't know about Aurifil, etc. until comparatively recently, but my machines are quite content with C&C. But then, all my machines are pre 1990.

My criteria is also - does it break easily? If yes, it gets discarded.

If you are "thread selective" - if you wish to donate or sell your Coats thread, I am reasonably sure there would be takers.

I have a new Janome 6700 and use Coats and Clark, connecting threads, superior, etc. no problem with any of them.

I disagree with the statement that new threads are ok and old threads are not. Statements made above are the tests to be used. If it s strong then use it. If it easily breaks then don’t.

I do the break test, too. I don't mind using old C & C, but I intensely dislike the new stuff. It's way too stiff. Superior Masterpiece is my favorite, but I really am not a thread snob and only my Elna is fussy. The vintage Singers and Necchi don't care.

The reason why some say that old threads should not be used is that the newer machines with a higher stitch speed put more wear/stress on the thread and can break the thread, and the thread can give off more lint which is not good for the machine. I use whatever thread I want on my older slower machines, but hesitate to use anything but high quality thread on my newest one. If I do use an older thread and it passes the "break test," I still slow the machine down a lot. You'll know very quickly if a thread is too old when you start getting thread breaks even though you've put a new needle in. You also need to think about how the quilt will be used. Will it get a lot of stress and wear in its use? Or, is it more of a quilt that will be used for display. If people will be sitting on the quilt or kids may drag (God forbid) it on the floor, I'd use a newer thread just to play safe instead of sorry.

So what constitutes a "higher stitch speed"? I ask because I have a DSM that does 1500 spm. I also have an Innova longarm, which is plenty fast. I have only had an issue with one thread, which I later found out was taken out of production because so many other quilters were having problems with it.

There are other (more common) factors that will cause multiple thread breaks; using the wrong size needle, a burr on the needle or elsewhere along the thread path, etc. You can also decrease the stress and friction on the thread by using a topstitch needle. They have a larger eye. They also have a longer scarf, which is a groove in the side of the needle where the thread sits as it moves in and out of the fabric, reducing friction.

I'm with those that say to determine if the thread is good or not, do a break test. If your break test is fine but the thread breaks as you're sewing with it, then switch to a needle with a larger eye.