Paper-piecing... Keeping edges of block on grain.
 

I am pretty experienced in paper piecing, had done Judy Niemeyer patterns and also PP many blocks of my Dear quilt.

One thing I have never been able to achieve is making sure that when piecing triangles whose outer edges are the outer edge of the block, to be on grain. I generally cut fabric in squares, retangles or strips based on the size of the piece I need and trim off when trimming up the block at the end. But when the fabric is folded back after it's sewn to the previous piece, the edge does not lie on grain... Does anyone have any suggestions for making the edges on grain.

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As long as you wait until you have sewn the blocks together before removing the paper, it shouldn't matter.

I always wait until I sew it together to remove the paper. The paper stabilizes it.

I thought one of the reasons pp was so popular was one could just "slap" a piece of fabric any which grain way because the paper stabilizes......

You can cut oversize templates of the units in the PP block. I am surprised that you posted you have done Judy Niemeyer and were not familiar with this technique. All of her patterns call for making an oversized template that matches the shape of the piece in her pattern. It simplifies the process of PP, conserves fabric and in some cases ensures the outer edge of the completed unit is on the grain. It would be very easy to do on your crossed canoe block.

Geri B, the popularity of PP is to achieve nice sharp points of odd angles that are not as easily done with more traditional piecing methods.

Doesn't matter about grain when paper piecing. All that matters is the fabric piece is large enough.

Thanks everyone for your replies. I did some playing around with scraps..Feline Fanatic, you really made me think about those JN templates. It took a couple tries, but I think I figured this out... about how to use the actual paper piece to make a template, and to determine the angle I needed to cut the fabric. I'm heading back upstairs to sew more scraps and see if my templates work... I think before I was cutting regular over-sized 45 degree triangles with this block and it didn't give me the on grain edges I wanted. I'll report back later with some pics.

So many of you say it doesn't really matter if the edges are on bias, but these are large 12.5" blocks and lots of edge to stretch out of shape, as the quilt is sewn together. I'll be back.

If/when I'm worried about bias, I starch the snot out of the fabric. Much easier than worrying about straight of grain, especially since with any triangle, you're going to be dealing with bias one way or another!

I am not worried about the sewing line because nearly every block as an angle or more. But in traditional quilt making, fabric is cut so, the edges of the block are on grain. I had not until I think today have figured out how to make those fabric templates and achieve the results I want. I still haven't been up to sew yet... again, I'll report back with pics.

I think in the case of your crossed canoe block for the pieces that will end up being an outside edge it won't be too difficult. For basis of discussion I am looking at the upper left hand quadrant of the block. The two pieces that will be on your outside edge in that quadrant are the large white right angle triangles. Measure the distance from the top left hand corner over to the right where it switches color. Add your seam allowance and then another 1/2". I suspect the measurement will be 7" or very close to it in a 12" finished block. Now measure down to where it intersects with the "canoe". again, add your seam allowances and 1/2". I bet that measurement will come darn close to being 5". If you cut a rectangle to this measurement, on the grain, I bet you can make one diagonal cut from upper left corner to lower right corner and the resulting peices of fabric will be just right for PP the two white right angles in that quadrant of the block and also leave you outside edges on the grain, with just a bit left over to trim away.

Yes to what feline fanatic said about creating rt triangles out of recs, thus creating those straight grain edges......that was my thought too, and would do that if I were pp that block, but I would not pp that block, just piece it...

yes, I am aware that this technique was originally created to achieve nice sharp points out of complex shapes.....but I have also watched some demos where pieces were were just hacked to fit and sewed on, no concern about SOG....
So, I guess there are two sides to this coin.......

Fons and Porter sells an acrylic template set. You don't need to PP this block.
http://www.shopfonsandporter.com/pro...-csi-pp-151023

I also like tbe edges of my blocks to be on grain.

I took a photo of one quadrant of the block showing the edges are indeed on grain. I will finish the rest of the block and post again.

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Ack! I have to change the tip!

Another reason to want to remain with SOG while PP ... some prints will be just awful if you slap-dash cut just any old way. Stripes going every which way on a block would drive me insane!!

If not for the print ... I personally don't worry about SOG on PP blocks, even large blocks. The reason is that I keep the paper on and then join the blocks. If the block is such that leaving the paper on makes joining the blocks a nightmare, then I'll baste the outside edge of the block to the paper along the seam line, then remove the paper, then join the pieces.

Mission accomplished!

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Warbler, it looks like you've figured it out - nicely done! It really makes a difference since your fabric has such a directional fabric. Your quilt is going to look great!

Thank you Jennifer and everyone for the encouragement and great insight. I am fairly new to this forum but it feels like I have met a lot of kindred spirits who are skilled quilters and fun to be around. :)

I agree with you. Starch works wonders on quilt blocks.