I've found it very helpful to use a glue stick on the first piece, especially if I'm working with tiny pieces. Just a couple swipes with the stick holds it long enough to sew it down with the second piece.

WOW I've never seen the fold and stitch method but I can't wait to try it! Thank you for sharing and then explaining how to do it so easily! thanks

I print the pattern on freezer paper. Then I use photo paper or even a shiny post card, place the straigth edge on the printed line and fold along the line. The shiny surface gives the card/photo paper a good grip so it doesn't slip when folding,

If you can buy Carol Doaks DVD you will soon achieve perfection. Carol is an amazing teacher. You will get all the wonderful info right at your fingertips. I recently saw the DVD at Joanns, so you may be able to get it with a coupon. Either way, its worth whatever the price is.

I put my stitch length at 12/14 per inch wich translates to 1.5 on my Bernina. Your stitch is to small if it is bunching up.
There is no need to either back stitch or drop your length to 0. As long as you sew past the intersection or into the seam allowance several stitches. I have never had any seams come apart. If a few stitches get loose at the begining or end of your sewing it is okay because those stitches are not actualy part of the sewn seam. They are before and after the actual seam area.

I only pin pieces if they are large and flop over. I keep a lamp next to my machine and hold the paper section up to the light so I can see through the paper and line my fabric up with a 1/4" allowance over the line on the pattern piece.
You will get lots of help here from people and also do a search for some tutorials.
peace

I agree. Sewing through the paper on the lines is the beauty of pp: ACCURACY.
Go to www.quiltworx.com, click on learn more under Technique.
Use the folding template (I use a strip of template plastic - factory edge!) Add-a-quarter ruler is very important.
Set stitch length to 1.
You will be sewing over the ends of your lines of stitching - no need to backstitch. Start about 1/8 to 1/4" before the seam line and sew past the line at the end about the same amount. This sew over is included in the seam allowance so doesn't matter. Sew past the end on the outside edge of the block and leave a thread tail - Don't trim! The threads are twisted when they come out of the machine. This twisting usually keeps the seam together until you are ready to sew your blocks together. Just be gentle when taking the paper off. If you can get sheets of newsprint for your copies, it is a much softer paper and tears away easily.
Oops, Katybob reminded me. Use a glue stick on the #1 piece.

The problem I've had with sewing before and after the line is that I was taught to fold after I've sewed & cut the seam to 1/4 inch. When I do this the stitches come undone. So when are you cutting the 1/4 inch seam? (I hope this makes sense.)

I trim to 1/4" after every seam.

I trim to 1/4" after every seam, too, and I very rarely cut through any stitching, so I'm not sure I understand what's happening. Don't cut 1/4" around the outside of the pieced portion until you're entirely finished with that portion. The only place you cut while you're putting it all together is 1/4" outside the fold after you've stitched and folded your paper back. Be sure to stitch several stitches before the beginning and after the end of the stitching line.

Check out the blog called ThatQuilt. It is a Dear Jane tutorial blog but she has a great method for paper piecing using freezer paper. There is a link to it on the blog, look down the right side of the page. I love this method! The way you get a straight fold line is that you gently score the lines (use the dull side of your seam ripper) before you start sewing. The lines are then straight and crisp. You don't have to stop sewing at the end of each line. The freezer paper helps stabilize your fabric, especially small pieces and bias edges. Excellent method!!