Paper piecing
 

Is there a trick to paper piecing with diagonal seams. No matter how I arrange it, my fabric that I have added (the one that has the 1/4 inch seam and is flipped over) is always too short. The diagonal is messin' with me. Suggestions, please.

If I'm not sure I'm going to have tons of extra, I will put a pin in the seam and flip the piece over to verify that I have enough. Usually the piece is large enough, but it needs to be moved up or down the seam to cover. I usually have this problem when I start a project, after I do a couple of blocks, I have figured out what I need to do to make it come out right.

Place the fabric just below the seam allowance of the point end with excess fabric on the wide end. Then you can trim after stitching/ flipping

I do the pin or hold in place and then flip as if it is sewed. If it covers and has enough left to trim, then I am good. If it is too far down, I adjust the whole piece up. After every adjustment, I go through the pin/hold in place and check to see if it is big enough and placed correctly. If it doesn't cover it with enough fabric to trim, then I try a larger piece. And....I get to rip at least one time. lol

I've only done a few blocks. The same thing kept happening to me. I just gave up on trying to conserve fabric and used a very big piece so I wouldn't come up short.

This is what I do for tricky patches. Take a piece of paper. Trace the patch you're trying to sew. Add a very generous quarter inch seam allowance all around except on the one side you'll be sewing. For that side, add half an inch. Cut it out and use that as a template to cut that tricky patch.

I learned a fabulous way to do paper piecing a while ago. Let's see if it translates to words, without the visuals.

First, I measure the size of a rectangular piece of fabric which will cover the space plus seam allowances, with up to 1/4" to spare. to do this, I take my square ruler, and lay the 1/4" line on the line on the pattern between the piece I just finished and the one I'm about to make. The main part of the ruler is over the space I need to fill. Shift the ruler so that you have slightly more than 1/4" overhang from the farthest point, then determine the size of the rectangle that covers the complete area with 1/4" seam allowance (then I round up to a nice number to cut the piece)

Now, to apply the piece - take your work in progress, and fold the paper pattern back (away from the fabric) along the seam line between the last piece you did and the one you are about to attach. Use a 1/4" mark on your ruler, and carefully trim the 1/4" seam allowance on the piece you just finished attaching. Keeping that paper folded back, align your next piece right sides together with the edge of that piece matching the edge you just cut - hey, it's a perfect 1/4" seam right there, bonus, right? Hold the paper up to the light - you should be able to see the folded section - make sure your new piece covers it completely, plus seam allowance on all edges/points. Pin if you like, or hold carefully and unfold the paper. Now stitch along the line. When you flip, it will cover perfectly, because you checked it against the folded paper first. Never fails! (unless you get distracted and fold on the wrong line. Ask me how I know :) )

There is ruler just for paper piecing called Add Enough. It's great for the odd shapes of fabric to be sure it is big enough to cover all the points and angles.

I do kind of like Peggy but don't bother with the template. Most PP units that are diagonal will be some form of triangle. I will often figure out how big I need it then cut big rectangles of my fabric and cut them in half again on the diagonal for my odd shaped diagonal piece. If I need a lot, like in NYB points, I will cut a strip that is 3/4" wider than my point unit is tall. Then find the angle and cut over size triangle units from the strip.

You have to preview your fabric before sewing to make sure it has enough length and width to cover the area. It is better to be bigger than smaller. You have to face the fact that a lot of fabric is wasted when doing pp.

Thank you for this tip. It sounds like a good idea to avoid ripping.

This is what I do but I never know how to explain it to others. I think you did a great job of explaining, but then again I know what you're talking about & have visuals in my mind. lol

For the diagonal "Point" you need at least the width of the strip extra on both end. I've always had problem with this, and it just occurred to me that you would do it the same way that you end your binding on a quilt. That being , when you get around to the joining the two ends of the binding, you lay one end on top of the other measure and cut it straight across and have room to make a 45 degree diagonal seam.

I learned the Carol Doak method and realized that for those odd shapes, I have to use generous cuts. Don't try to cut your piece "to fit".

When I paper piece, I make templates. The method that works for me is to do a mock up in paper with all seam allowances added. It really seems to work well. I find there is less fabric waste. I agree with you. Those diagonals can make you want to tear your hair out! Good luck!

I usually work in strips. I look at all of the pieces that are going to use one color and measure from the seam line to the widest point of the largest piece, and add at least 1/2" for seams. If there are a lot of small pieces I'll cut a strip for those and a wider strip for the larger pieces. Look at the paper pattern. Measure from the seam line to the widest part of the next piece to add. Add width for the seams. When working with strips you will always have the piece covered lengthwise when you flip it. Just be sure to flip before cutting so you can see that you've got the whole piece covered.Otherwise, you'll end up cutting too short and be very unhappy when you do flip it. Always press after cutting.

I too am a Carol Doak paper piecer. I've tried all the methods and hers is the one I go back to. Her organization how to is wonderful.

I do this too. I have had to pick out too many pp seams because I couldn't quite picture it in my head the way it was in real life.

Lots of good suggestions here for sure. I'm not trying to be a smart*** but are you sure with the diagonal / triangular pieces you are not putting the pieces on backward? It happens. For me, the "trick" to paper piecing is to be able to get into a groove of thinking upside-down and backward. It takes a little while to get into that groove.
Krista's description is great for getting it right.

There are several suggestions given here that I will try the next time I do paper piecing. Thanks for your ideas.