Printing for machine paper piecing
 

I would like to know what type of paper you use to print paper piecing block patterns. I tried running tracing paper through the printer, but I can only print one page at a time. More than 1 piece of tracing paper causes a printer jam. I can use regular printer paper, but it is difficult to see through to line up fabric pieces for stitching. I need 120 blocks for the quilt I want to make, so tracing by hand would take too long! I would appreciate any advice on printing paper piecing blocks- especially what type of paper to use! Thank you,
crcindy

I buy the Carol Doak's paper. It is designed for paper piecing.

Carol Doak paper

I use lightweight translucent vellum. It goes through the printer just like regular paper and super easy to remove from the fabric. Just recently I started using Stable Stuff. I don't have to remove it.

I got 25% rag vellum on sale at Staples a few years ago and still have a lot left.

I use regular printer paper .... and prefer to use a colour over white paper.

I don't worry about seeing thru the paper ... when I need to "see" I just fold back the paper on the line to help me line it up accordingly.

I have two boxes of onion skin paper I use. It won't go thru the printer so I just use a ruler and a sharpie and trace the patterns. Onion skin paper is getting harder and harder to find though. I got mine at an old office supply store that was discontinuing it and had it on sale for slightly less than half price. I have almost a thousand sheets so it should last a good long while.

I use Carol Doak paper or cheap copy paper.

Thank you for all of your ideas!! Although I have several Carol Doak's older books, I did not know she had a line of paper.
I will look for it and try it. I can use QuiltE's advice and fold the paper on the lines I need to see. (I'm not sure why I didn't think of that- it seems so simple :o) Thank you all again! crcindy

I buy the cheapest ream of paper .if in doubt get a sewing wheel to run over or use a sewing machine with no needle over all the lines and through a few pieces at a time. The holes cheaper than printing.
Lining up the lines fold the paper on the line. Makes it easier to remove as well but it does show where you are. Or fold back and cut last fabric piece to 1/4 inch away now paper flat next piece of fabric goes level with the last piece of fabric you cut.
You should have the lines on top fabric below and stitch on the lines.

Hope this helps.

i use normal printer paper and just do one or two copies and get it duplicated at the copy store. i ask them to use their thinnest paper which usually is not that thin, regular copy paper again. i have , to my surprise, had no problems at all with seeing through it or ripping it off the seams. i shorten the stitch length to 1.5. Carol Doak paper is lovely to work with buti find costly, tissue paper too fragile (i sometimes have to rip out and do again). i would not do 125 copies on my home printer, it is more economical for me to go to the copy store, they can even scale it up if you want. never cost more than three dollars total.

i prefer the colored paper, too. and i also use the fold back method. i rarely have trouble lining up the pieces.

I print on freezer paper. My printer doesn't like it so to avoid sticking and the paper getting crumbled I first attach the freezer paper on a sheet of regular printer paper about 1/4" at the bottom with hot iron.
I use the No-tear method, folding the paper instead of sewing through it. The freezer paper pattern can be used several times, as long as it sticks to your fabric. I usually print 6 -8, more when these can't be used any more.Tutorial:
http://www.twiddletails.com/store/in...n0uel5ev6rhfr5