Question for Machine Applique Quilters
 

I have made quite a few applique quilts for my grandchildren...using machine applique...now after they have used and washed these quilts....I am getting requests for repairs. Mostly on the ones I have used the satin stitch. They are falling off or parts of them are.

I used fusible backing and used the satin decorative stitch on my machine. They look nice and secure when I am done, but I wonder if the satin stitch isn't actually weakening the fabric and cutting it. The stitches are still there...the applique is lifting.

Have any of you experienced this and what do you do to fix the problem from happening again?

Yes, I have experienced this, and you probably won't like my answer. I switched applique methods. I no longer satin stitch. Most of the time I turn under and hand stitch, using the freezer-paper-and-starch method of turning under. If I DO machine stitch the applique, I use a button hole stitch. You can use fusible, but in my experience the fusible doesn't always stay fused after washings.

eta: it occurred to me that you could use a firm stabilizer on the back of the fabric, but you'd end up with stiff appliques, unless you cut out the centers after stitching. In my opinion though, it would be easier to hand stitch, or machine button hole stitch.

When doing the satin stitch make sure the whole stitch covers the appliqué itself, just the outer zag should go onto the background. I've been using the satin stitch for years too and haven't had that complaint (yet). Hopefully it'll be an easy fix for you, also I usually use at least 2.5 stitch length with a .4 so it is quite compact.

Peggi...have you had any problem with the hand applique coming apart after washing...not that I will do this because I am still working on my first hand applique quilt that I started about 4 years ago. My 12 grandchildren would be parents themselves before I finished them!

You know, for this reason I haven't yet been brave enough to use machine applique on one of the kids' quilts. I'm using either needle turn or raw edge w/ a straight stitch for wallhangings for Christmas, but I was afraid of exactly the result you're seeing if I added applique to a quilt that would be washed a lot.

I'll be watching for more replies...

I have done some machine appliqué, though Most I hand appliqué. I was thinking when you use a satin stitch, do you start off by back-tacking to lock your stitch at the beginning (as you near the starting point after satin stitching around, you cover that back stitching anyway) and especially back stitch with a straight stitch at the end to lock? I don't think a satin stitch locks if you only back stitch with the satin stitch. Hope this makes sense and if I am wrong, someone correct me!!

I've only satin stitched one quilt, but I've done a lot of children's clothes with the same machine. They were washed repeated and never came undone. Was your needle sharp? I'm more concerned about the flowers I buttonhole stitched, but my daughter says they are doing okay so far.

Treasureit, your avatar prompted me to make an appliqued panel in my daughter's quilt. At the time I posted the picture, I couldn't remember your name, so I didn't give you the credit you deserve. Thank you. K loves her quilt and that panel is what makes it special.

When I machine applique, I used fusible interfacing. Cut it out the same shape as your appliqué. Put the right side of fabric to the fusible side of interfacing, and sew around the perimeter. Cut a slit in the interfacing, and turn it inside out and finger press it, and push the corners out. The right side of fabric is up, and the fusible side is down. Press the applique piece in the correct position on your block or quilt, so that is fuses to the base fabric. Then, I use a blanket stitch to sew the edges down. And, as in the case of leaves, I use a decorative stitch down the center . Carolyn

I think the cause of this problem is satin stitching that is very tight. I have noticed when I do satin stitching that is very close together, the needle holes in the applique are so close together that inevitably a lot of the applique fibers are going to be damaged. It's almost as if the satin stitching cuts the fabric. That is why the applique ends up lifting right at the stitching line of the satin stitch. The fibers under the satin stitching are still there, but they have separated from the body of the applique.

The best solution, I think, is to change to a different type of stitch, such as the blind hem. Or, widen and lengthen the satin stitch so the stitches are not so close together. Another alternative is to do two rows of stitching, both with lengthened stitches. The first round is not as wide; the second round with a widened stitch covers up the first round. That way at least the needle holes are not right next to each other.

A different needle might help also. For example, a ballpoint needle is supposed to "push" the fibers apart where as a sharp needle will pierce the fibers. I think it is the repeated piercing of the fibers so close together that is weakening the fabric.

Possibly a different fusible would help also -- one that is more permanent. Regular Steam-a-Seam I noticed stays adhered very well, but it is pretty stiff.

No, none at all. I use Superior's Bottom Line for hand applique, it's very strong and disappears into the fabric. I like that you can buy the assortment of colors on bobbins, which means I don't have to spend lots of money on spools when I only need a little bit of thread. I recently had to use some Gutermann thread because I didn't have anywhere near the right color in Bottom Line, and boy did I struggle with that Gutermann! It's probably okay in a machine, but horrid to sew by hand.

I use Lite Heat and Bond and a Blanket stitch on all my applique work. I think perhaps you may be using such a tight satin stitch that it is quiet literaly cutting the fabric.....If I don't want my blanket stitch stiff, then I window cut the bonding material, some times I like this look, some times I don't. I think we each do things just a little differently than others, and thats okay !!!

I've used satin stitch applique and double sided wonderunder on sweatshirts which get washed more than the usual bed quilt. They usually last over 10 years. The fabric wears and rips from snags first. You have to make the stitch wide enough to cover. Some of the heirloom stitches don't ravel. I use the pin stitch to join lace to a sleeve - fold up a single hem, pin stitch, and cut off any excess. Have done this on nightgowns. It's just harder to turn corners with those than zigzag.

I made a couple of quilts for a couple of Grandsons. I turned the applique pieces under a 1/4" and pressed, pinned them on and just did a straight stitch about 1/8" from the edge. One is put away and not used, other was washed and dried often. The appliques are still on it. I'm thinking this is how I will now to do them.

I've never had that problem...but I can see it happening. What I do is I make sure my large zigzag stitch is mostly ON the applique and just the needle hole of the other side is on the fabric.This way the hole on the applique is over inside the applique piece and therefore away from the edge so it can't fray the edge. It also covers the whole applique piece edge...so again, the piece is covered and less apt to fray and with one hole off the applique piece and on the fabric...it encloses the applique edge all around. I don't use a "solid", really close ZZ as I want to make sure each hole makes its own indentation and not so close that the two holes merge together. And I always use the widest ZZ the piece will allow..the more stitches the better structure.

I have never had that problem. I use either a wide satin stitch, or a combination of decorative stitches. I know not every applique would benifit from such detailed decorative stitching, but it has been the style I've been working with. I frequently add decorative stitching across the applique to emphasize whatever design the applique is. I've never had it cut the fabric yet.