Quilting fabric containing metallic thread.
 

I am quilting a project where some of the blocks have cotton fabric with metallic thread. I am using polyester 100 wt in the needle and cotton 50 wt in the bobbin. I have used this combination with success before on plain cotton. I reduced the top tension and used a topstitch needle, and had no problems whatsoever.

On the cotton/metallic fabric, the thread is fraying and breaking. Not all the time, but often enough to make it annoying. I changed my needle to a "metallic" one and this helped somewhat. These needles have a larger eye to prevent the fraying of more fragile metallic threads.

I can't help thinking that it is the metallic element in the fabric that is causing the problem. I don't think I will ever machine-quilt that type of fabric again. But in the meantime, I still have six 12-inch blocks to quilt!

I am using the polyester 100 wt thread in the needle because it sinks into the fabric, and I can use the same thread on all my blocks without changing colors.

I'd certainly like to hear from any of you who have used "metallic" fabrics. Did you encounter similar problems, and did you figure out any solutions?

Thanks in advance!

I'm afraid I'm not much help, because though I buy and use a ton of metallic accented fabrics, I've never had any problem because of them. I used a regular 80/12 quilting needle with 40wt cotton thread in the top and bobbin. I had significant trouble with my last quilt because I was in a hurry and couldn't wait for the elmer's to dry, so I spray basted instead and that caused so much gunk on my needle and I broke threads constantly. Horrible. Did you change anything about how you basted? What are you using on the back?

As I reread your post again, do you mean that the actual metallic portion of the fabric you're quilting is breaking? On first read, I thought you meant the top thread was breaking.

Like SEphie, I'm also a little confused. Is it the thread or the fabric that is giving you problems?

I'm with the others. I've quilted fabrics with metallic in them with 50/2 Aurifil cotton thread in top & bobbin with a 70/10 Microtex needle (same as usual) and didn't ever have any issues.

I almost never use poly thread so I don't know if you can apply thread conditioner to it, but maybe that would help??? I'd go with a 90/14 Microtex/Sharp needle & thread conditioner. The other things I'd try is skipping that last hook right by the needle and changing the direction of the spool pin (one thing at a time, of course). Oh, and probably before all of that, I'd make sure to floss my thread run maybe 3x & give my bobbin case a good cleaning & oiling.

PS -- I re-read your post & now am not sure I answered right. I'm assuming that it's your poly thread on top that's fraying. If that's not the case, ignore everything I wrote. :p

At one time you could buy imported cottons that had a metallic thread running through them I think most were from India.

Piercing a metallic thread would probably leave a jagged edge which would fray fabric - I haven't seen any of these in over 30 years.

If the fabric is imported and used for special type garments like a sari or scarf, I'd see if I could find any hints about sewing and embroidery from the nation that produced them.

Otherwise - minimum quilting and more of the STID type straight line

Sorry about the confusion. It is the 100 wt polyester thread in the needle that is fraying and breaking. There is no damage to the fabric itself.

I did floss the thread run and clean and oil the machine.

Since I had already used the combination of 100 wt polyester in the needle and 50 wt cotton in the bobbin to quilt plain cotton with no problem,I was wondering whether it could be the metallic element in the fabric that is fraying the needle thread. The 100 wt polyester thread is very, very fine.

By the way, thanks to all of your for taking the time to reply.

Have you tried sewer's aid on the top thread?

I have never had to use thread magic of sewer's aid before. I'll have to look into it.

I might also change my top thread to smoke invisible thread (nylon). I've had success with that in the past. My metallic fabrics are mostly dark colored.

I also note that Microtex/Sharp needles have been mentioned. I'll have to get some of those ...

Thanks again!

It would make sense that you might need thread conditioner only with metallic cottons. Typically the poly thread would be equal to or stronger than the cotton fibers in the fabric. But metallic fibers are a rougher texture & with such fine poly thread, it's possible it's rubbing against it more than usual and that's what's contributing to the shredding. I do notice a slight difference in metallic vs standard cotton when doing handwork and thread conditioner definitely helps. It's fairly inexpensive & one bottle will last you through many, many quilts. You just run a single bead of the Sewer's Aid across the spool each day before you start sewing.

Thanks Bree. I was wondering how you would use the Sewer's Aid. I saw a video where the thread passes through some kind of applicator that you fix on to the top of the machine. Running a bead across the spool sounds easier!

I've used Aurifil cotton to quilt metallic fabric with no problems. The metallic needle is for use for sewing with metallic thread in your machine, not to help with the fabric on metallic fabric.

I think on some metallic prints i used rayon thread to give it more sparkle. metallic threads are difficult enough and the metallic prints may give some problems. Hope you figured it out.

Seems like most of the fabric I'm used with metallic in the design have been almost like a painted on metallic. I've had no problem with most--I did have one that seemed to be particularly heavy and cause some problem. Think just slowing down helped. also, I was using a #50 weight thread.

Even though I am not quilting my project with metallic thread, I put in a "metallic" needle, because I had some on hand, and they do have a larger eye to prevent fraying of delicate metallic threads. I figured it might work with my very fine 100 wt polyester thread.

I find that by changing my needle about every two hours, and loosening top tension A LOT, I am getting less thread breakage. I'll be able to finish my 15 blocks that have the metallic fabric.

If I ever do work with metallic fabric again, I would definitely choose another thread, probably 50 wt cotton.

Thanks for all your helpful comments. So much knowledge and experience out there ...

Change your 100 weight thread. It sounds like the problem.....it is half the weight of your bobbin, so very thin..could be the metallic thread in you fabric is damaging your 100 wt...jut a thought.

I just saw an article that suggested putting a small piece of mole skin on your machine just above the needle. They put sewers aid on the mole skin so the thread would run across it right before it goes thru the needle. The also suggested trying a topstitch needle if the metallic needle wasn't working. This was for sewing with metallic thread. I haven't tried it yet but it could help. I have also seen people suggest quilting with a denim needle. Good luck
Also did you recently break a needle? Is there a small nick on your throat plate? If so get some really fine sandpaper and remove the burr.

You could try using a larger needle. I use a 90/14 for metallic threads because they make a bigger hole in the fabric for the thread to go through. It might help with your fabric with metallic threads in it.

I agree about using Sewer's aid. You just, as Bree said, run a single line of Sewer's Aid across the thread. It soaks in and lubricates the thread as you sew. Let us know what works for you.

I agree with Lady Diana. I think the 100 wt thread is a problem with metallic fabric. I would never use it again with that type of fabric.

I had started out with a topstitch needle, size 14, but the thread still frayed and broke. I only had size 12 metallic needles so I tried that. The combination of the size 12 metallic and very loose top tension worked and I was able to complete the 15 blocks with metallic fabric.

I am now quilting the rest of the quilt, which is cotton with no metallic fibers, with 50 wt cotton top and bottom, with a size 14 quilting needle. What a difference, beautiful stitches, perfect tension!

I will definitely get some Sewer's Aid, and keep it on hand.

Again, thanks for all the good advice!