quilting a tshirt quilt
 

I made my very first tshirt quilt for a friend last month. I watched mega videos and it went smoothly until the quilting part. Cross hatching the tshirt blocks was tough with all the rubberized lettering and different textures and back did not look as neat as I wanted it to. It was ok and she loved it. I am a perfectionist so I need to perfect my technique on my next one which I am starting for another friend.
I have been researching again. The video I watched said to use sulky invisible thread on top and color of backing on bobbin. I am scared of the invisible thread. Never used it. Any suggestions from seasoned quilters?

I hate to give you the bad news, but I have never heard of anyone sewing thru the rubberized letters or objects before. If you had looked at previous posts, you would have seen that many of us seasoned quilters have voiced to outline the rubberized area of a t-shirt rather than stitching thru them. When I am searching for a topic, I go to the Advance search and by replying to a few options, I am able to find previously posted information. Just consider yourself lucky that you didn't break any needles. We have all learned from our mistakes and if your friend is delighted with the quilt, that is all that really matters. I am not a big fan of using invisible thread on a t-shirt quilt because of the weight of the quilt. I have used it on wall hangings. Good Luck with your next project.

I prefer to stipple around rubberized designs. It will break needles on the long arm....a serious thing for the quilt and the machine. Also when you stitch thru the rubberized design, it can start to "peal off" with use.

Quite often when quilting T-shirt quilts pop use a batting that allows maximum distance between quilting lines (like warm &natural that allows up to 10") so they do not have to stitch on the logos. Then they just do some easy meandering or stippling. I have quilted many of them with invisible thread on top. The key to success with invisible thread is to first purchase a good quality one. I prefer the invisible threads from Superior Threads and the one from Aurifil. Loosen the top tension just a little and use a 70/10 topstitch needle. (The threads from Superior actually state on the end of the spools/cones what needle to use.

I have successfully quilted a tshirt quilt in a crosshatch pattern, including across the rubbery areas. I did a regular stitch but longer, used a walking foot and used cotton thread.... I tried poly but it kept breaking. It seemed to help by stitching as smoothly as possible, limiting the stops/starts.

Did you use an iron-on interfacing on each piece before you put it together? It is highly recommended. My friend does it for other people and has it long armed by another friend and they look very professional, no sagging or puckers at all. They are absolutely beautiful. Good luck the next time.

I agree. It's more trouble than it's worth and personally, I think it detracts from the t-shirts, which is where the focus should be.

Does the interfacing stay on the quilt or do you pull it off when the blocks are sewn together?

I like using the invisible thread. I had to patch a quilt last week, and so I did some applique. But it was such a big area I used the invisible thread to quilt the area to hide as much as possible. When I used tshirts I used pellon iron on interfacing.. and it just stayed on the back of the fabric. I think it made the fabric much easier to handle

It stays on the back of the t-shirts and helps stabilize them when you're quilting. T-shirts can be pretty stretchy.