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bearisgray 05-19-2016 05:56 AM

If a grain line is very important to me - and the fabric was very expensive or I did not have any "extra" - I will pull a thread to find the straight of grain.

It is a rather tedious task, but sometimes worth it to me.

The trauma to the fabric caused by ripping can be extensive. Also, some fabrics are not cooperative about tearing easily or neatly.

bearisgray 05-19-2016 06:00 AM

If a fabric has been washed many times - I will try to make the first cut on the lengthwise grain and "live" with however the crosswise grain is.

There are some fabrics that have been processed so that one can not straighten them. Then the choice is to use it as is or to go to a different fabric.

DawnFurlong 05-19-2016 06:05 AM


Originally Posted by rryder (Post 7553652)
I think the bruising that Jan is talking about is caused by the stretching that can be introduced when ripping along the cross grain.

Tearing with the grain (lengthwise, parallel to the selvage) should not cause any fabric distortion if using all cotton fabric and if the weave structure is what is known as a "balanced weave". Other kinds of weave structures can cause distortion when tearing with the grain.

Rob
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Then I am wondering why quilt shops rip cross grain. Because they are not ripping parallel to the selvage. I guess it can still take youto a straight grain. But it seems moreproblematic because of the extra stretch there.

GingerK 05-19-2016 06:12 AM

I insist that my fabric is cut instead of ripped. If the store is unwilling to accommodate my wishes I take my business somewhere else. I also often cut just off the grain when I have fabric that wants to fray. It seems to lessen the fraying a bit.

Mariposa 05-19-2016 06:21 AM

I prefer to have my fabrics cut, not ripped. Have had experiences where they ripped the fabric, and I had to basically lose 6" of fabric to get rid of the fabric damaged from ripping. Not in my budget! So I ask shops before purchasing.

Macybaby 05-19-2016 06:23 AM

I was at one store that ripped, however they measured 2" past the yardage and ripper there. The local LQS I shop at will rip the extra wide backing, however they also go a bit longer to allow for the damaged edge.

I prewash all my fabric, so I rarely end up with something that will hang with the edges even. I always buy a bit extra than needed since I make mistakes - and I also love having scraps!

way back when I did garment sewing, it was normal that fabric stores would give an extra inch or two to allow for the fabric being wound on the bolt off grain, since straightening it was required before cutting the pieces. I was surprised when I stated buying quilting fabric, and saw them cut it as exact to the measure as possible.

Bree123 05-19-2016 08:06 AM

Thanks so much for all the great info, Rob. I feel better prepared to advocate for cut fabric now. :)

rryder 05-19-2016 08:26 AM

Glad it was helpful. I would always advocate for cutting fabric when it is across the grain. Or if they insist on ripping, they need to include extra length to counter any distortions.

Most quilting cottons should be fine for tearing with the grain, which is something I regularly do when I'm doing borders. But folks selling yardage are not likely to need to do that.

Rob
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rryder 05-19-2016 08:32 AM


Originally Posted by DawnFurlong (Post 7553710)
Then I am wondering why quilt shops rip cross grain. Because they are not ripping parallel to the selvage. I guess it can still take youto a straight grain. But it seems moreproblematic because of the extra stretch there.

You are right, it is more problematic. Theoretically, you will have a straight edge and if your fabric is hanging crookedly, you could pull it back into straight by tugging at opposite corners. This is what we were taught years ago when pulling a thread, however, pulling a single thread to then cut along puts less stress, hence less distortion, on the fabric than actually tearing it across the grain.

Which is why I prefer to cut across grain and save the tearing for situations where the tear will go with the grain.

Rob

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DawnFurlong 05-19-2016 09:09 AM


Originally Posted by rryder (Post 7553888)
Which is why I prefer to cut across grain and save the tearing for situations where the tear will go with the grain.
Rob
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Thanks Rob (and to all - such great information!!). I finally feel like I have an understanding of length wise and cross grain as well. That after about 13 years!!

Love this quilt shop, so hopefully they don't mind accommodating the customers request for cut (and not torn) fabric. Not a lot of choices around me for fabric.


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