Some factors in getting a block to finish at "the intended size"
 

Or - why your block is not finishing at "the intended size"

There will be absolutely nothing in this post that has not been mentioned many times before - but there might be something that a "newbie" has not thought of yet.

1) Some unwashed fabrics shrink when they are steam pressed. This will alter the finished size.

2) If one is not using a die-cutter for cutting the pieces, there may be variances in the size of the piece from the "exact" size. The way I cut squares - for example - I know they are about +1/32 of an inch from the "true" size. That does make a difference in a block with many pieces.

3) The seam allowance - what really matters is what is "showing" between the seam allowances. Doing the three strip test to check before starting out is worth the time and effort.
Here is one reference for how to do that:
http://www.connectingthreads.com/tut...ance__D95.html

4) If one uses starch - don't press/iron a soggy wet piece like you are rolling out pie dough. It will stretch the fabric.

5) Flatten rumpled fabric before cutting it. Iron or press it - I think using steam is better than a dry iron, but that's my preference.

6) I've heard that thread thickness matters. I have a huge supply of Coats & Clark cotton covered dual duty thread that I want to use up. Lots of threads about preferred threads on this forum.

7) Make a test block to see if it is turning out the way you want it to. Then make the adjustments. (of course, knowing where and how to make the adjustments comes from experience!)

Good post - thank you!

good list, thanks for posting them

We only do 3 things in piecing - cut, sew, and press - and you've covered all 3.

Good summary of many helpful tips. I would add 1 more...quality of fabric. Learned the hard way that quality fabric behaves much better than cheap fabric.
My New favorite piecing thread is Presencia 60wt, my seams are finally flat! Yay!!

You forgot unsewing and resewing!

I think washing before cutting is very important - I've had enough grief with not-washed fabrics, that I just don't want to take the chance of using not-washed fabrics.

So much emphasis seems to be placed on that seam allowance - and while it matters - the size of the pieces matters as much or more.

I have been meaning to measure the size of a strip when/if I used the June Tailor thingy as compared to "my" size of a strip. Or the size of the strips/pieces when cut by a die-cutter. Or using pre-cuts.

Even 1/64 variance of an inch across eight pieces -

Example - on eight strips - if the seam allowance is consistently only 1/64 inch more or less - on the first seven seams - 14 edges x 1/64 - 14/64 - that is almost 1/2 inch.

Great post, Bear

good info, Bear. I'd add not squaring up the "units" that make up the block--especially when a block has lots of pieces.

I recently ran into a new one. I was using a 4.5" square and always coming out shy on my 12.5" blocks, about three weeks later I found another 4.5" square in my rulers by another company and discovered that it was larger. If all else fails you may want to check your rulers for accuracy. I would have never thought about this had I not seen it with my own eyes.

Thanks for posting this. Those "rules" have been in my brain for some time, but the taking time to do them is often lacking in my eagerness to get on with what I want to make. I tell myself, as long as I stay consistent in my cutting, piecing, pressing, it will be okay. Most of my quilts do not end up the finished size the pattern stated. I really must get into better habits of checking my block in the beginning (measuring finished block) and then making necessary adjustments. Interesting that the thread we use may be one of the factors I hadn't given much thought to.

One thing to try is when making a test block use a basting stitch so rips out easily if it requires adjustments. This also works on piecing blocks together when trying to get intersecting seams to match. Sew with a basting seam and check it if all is okay, clip the baste in several spots but still holds the blocks together, sew with a regular stitch and pull out the basting. This really helps with multiple seams.

The modern alternative is to use Elmers Ultra Washable school glue.

Good idea!

I now have a question for you-all:

When making a test block - should one use the "good/intended" fabrics for it? I have noticed major differences in the "heft" of even different "quilting type" fabrics.

An extreme example would be heavy weight denim as compared to organza or plush upholstery fabric as compared to sheer curtains.

I think it would be better to use the components that one is planning to use in the final item for the "test before cutting out everything" step.

I think using "throw-away" scraps might be okay for the first test run.

Another suggestion: If you need/want to put a project away for awhile - leave notes for yourself - which rulers were you using - which machine and which settings you were using -

The reason I am mentioning this - I did not do that - and I wish I had.

Most of my suggestions come from having NOT done some of these things - and I made more work for myself or things did not turn out as intended.

I would like to put this in caps - Not all rulers are accurate! I have come across at least two that were not.
Not all templates are accurate, either.

Thanks for this list, I see a problem I have right now in ironing wet starched fabric.

I find that some of my blocks come out better when I finger press the individual components and don't press with an iron until the block is finished.
Another important point for me is that a little bit over and a little bit undersized can easily be matched in the next seam. However, I have gotten blocks in swaps that were from 12 to 13" when the goal size was 12 1/2. Those outliers won't make the cut.

I have to say that #7 on Bearisgray's list--make a test block--is one I always want to ignore, to my regret! All too often I get things cut and then want to just start string piecing and THEN figure I have problems! Hopefully I'll get more patient and precise. Thanks for this thread.

Thank you,partsalot! I thought I was losing my mind. I have suspected this to be true and just could not bring myself to believe that measuring devices could possibly vary. In my case I suspect variance between two cutting mats from different companies. I quit using the "culprit" and things settled down. It still works as a mat but my go to rulers will do the measuring from now on.

I, too, have better luck if I only finger press the components of the block. Somehow pressing with the iron seems to distort the fabric.

I find that my cutting should come from one method. Such as: if I use the accuquilt, I should use it for all the pieces in the quilt. I should not mix some accuquilt cut pieces and some long ruler cut by hand. Then I bought an Altos2 which looks like a glorified paper cutter. You use your own rotary cutter, but this device ($250.00) lines everything up and holds it in place. The DVD makes it look so slick, but I am having a little trouble with accuracy on it.

And that is just the cutting. Then there is the sewing and the dreaded pressing. It's a wonder I can get anything to come out at all.

Marcia

Make sure that your rulers are still have straight edges. I wore a couple of mine down so much that I was cutting curves instead of straight lines.

Thank you!

Some very good instruction here to make life easier. A long time ago this tip about test blocks was passed to me. Pick a selection of fabrics from your stash or buy a coordinated set that work well together and set them aside for the task of making test blocks. Only use these fabrics for this purpose. After a while you will have a collection of blocks and you will know what to do with them. A coordinated sampler quilt of course.