Splitting batting into thirds for easier quilting?
 

I would like to quilt my giant king in horizontal straight rows but don't feel it will be easily done on my 9" harp machine. I thought about cutting the batting into thirds across the width of the batting and sandwiching/basting that middle section first. then using fusible batting tape to join the top third and bottom third? That way I'd not have as much bulk under the harp when working that middle section while trying to sew straight lines across the width of the quilt. Does this seem feasible? And if so, any precautions/tips for me?

I would glue that middle section with Washable School Glue, then quilt it making sure the "loose ends" don't get under the needle. (Been there, done that.) Then add section 2, glue and quilt that. And on to section 3. That way you will only have to deal with the full bulk of the quilt for 1/3 of the time.

Yes, this will work. It's a common QAYG technique. YOu can use the fusible tape, whip stitch, or zigzag the batting together. You can also leave the backing on one piece, or also divide it into thirds, seaming as you go. If you don't divide the backing, just make sure you don't catch it in the area you are quilting. Ask me how I know!

I did it sometimes in more than 3 sections because I like my quilts to be reversible. So, I do a large square middle section, than, I add the 4 large borders. I zigzag my batting by machine with a large and long zigzag stich without pulling or pushing the batting through but letting the machine do the work. Here a video that talks about it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry6QTj3fA1s

Marti Michell's book, Machine Quilting in Sections, explains how to do this, as well as various other ways to split your quilt into sections for quilting. She goes through each method and why it would work well on certain types of quilts. I quilted in sections before I bought my longarm, and I highly recommend her book.

This method works very well. I cut my batting into thirds the long way using a wavy cut. Be sure to mark your batting so you can get it back together correctly. This method makes the quilting much easier!

Thanks everyone! does the fusible batting tape work well to keep things in place through washings and wear? do you use it on front and back or just front?

What great timing on this thread. I was just thinking about doing this myself this morning and was wondering about whether or not this would work. Does it matter if you wavy cut the batting or not? I think it would be harder to work with when it comes time to zig zag the batting pieces together.

And thanks for the link helou, I'm going to check that out right now

you're welcome quiltingbuddy. I cut my batting in a straight line as in the video I have never tried a wavy cut and I am no expert on this. but it worked for me and because after adding the batting I quilt some what over while quilting the quilt I can not tell where was it that the batting was joined. I mainly use 100% cotton batting or 20/80 batting. I have never tried this with any other type of batting, so I can not tell how it would behave with polyester batting or other kind.

Trying to keep the backing from getting caught in the stitching would be hard for me. If I were to try this I would have to think very hard about it.
Good luck and I hope it works for you.

Here's today digest instructions on splitting batting ...

http://www.quiltingboard.com/resourc...iclenewsletter

The visible tape works well and would think that as long as you quilt over it sufficiently. Good luck with your project and make to show it to us.

I am Marti Michell's husband. #5, Dunster is right about the "Machine Quilting In Sections" book. It was published in 2004 and still sells well. Can we call it "Classic?" When you can, use the gentle curve method to cut your batt when you are going to put it back together. The gentle curve avoids a weak line in the batt created by a straight line cut. Plug for a product! Our Fusible tape is the only one we have seen marketed for quilting that is made from non-woven fabric. All the others we have seen are knits. Non-woven is more difficult to feel in the quilt because it is thinner; stability is wanted, not the flex of knits, and non-woven delivers it; non-wovens are much less expensive than knits and our 2" width is much more suitable for gently curved cuts.

Thanks for the info about the woven/non-woven fusible tape. Did not know that. I have your wife's book and it has so much valuable information in there. I plan on use her method on a sampler quilt. My thought is to divide and cut batting into 2/3 and 1/3 but leave quilt top and backing alone. Quilt is about 100" x100". My question, which I don't recall seeing addressed anywhere, is how do you get the quilted section taught (?spelling) enough to hand baste the unquilted section to it. I use the Sharon Schamber method of hand basting. Thanks to everyone for any help you can give me.

I would get to some large tables (library, town hall, church hall), and let the quilted part hang over the edge, but caught by large clamps onto the edge of the table(s). Then the unquilted part could be pulled taut and clamped or taped to the other side of the table(s).

I would roll up the backing and front together while quilting the middle section. That roll could be pinned or clamped if you like.

Now why didn't I think of that. I clamp small baby quilts and pin baste that way but my mind was just set on the boards and Sharon Schamber's basting method. Thanks. Also thanks for the correct spelling of taut. I knew it didn't look right! LOL.

WOW - great idea. This surely would reduce the bulk on a standard home sewing machine. I'll give it a go! Thanks