Quiltingboard Forums - Stitches to the inch

Quiltingboard Forums (https://www.quiltingboard.com/)

- Main (https://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/)

- - Stitches to the inch - 10 12 14 or more? (https://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/stitches-inch-10-12-14-more-t252188.html)

I use the default setting when piecing. I do change it to 1.5 when I paper piece. I've never had any issues with the default setting.

and our foremothers sewed it all by hand

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunster (Post 6853063)

But that doesn't explain SueSew's experience. Her blocks were too small until she changed to a shorter stitch length, and then they were large enough. Just the opposite of your explanation. I can sort of understand that more stitches would result in the fabric being pulled smaller, though I haven't experienced that. (And haven't experimented with it, so can't say it isn't true.) But why would that give greater accuracy? Most times the problem reported is that the blocks come out too small, not too large, so a looser stitch would be better if that were the case.

I watched an Eleanor Burns video where she recommended a high stitch count per inch (15?) for sewing strips that are going to be cross-cut, so there's less chance of the threads coming loose when they are cut. I understand doing that, but how does it contribute to accuracy? Inquiring minds need to know. :)

Dunster, I hope I didn't say it backwards. What I did was measure the not-joined strips before joining, and they were accurately cut at 12 1/2". After sewing at 1.8 they were almost 1/4" shorter in length. With sewing at 2.2 they were looser. So I sewed at 2.0 :) and when I cross-cut the threads stayed put - but they were Aurfil cotton, not that slippery Oh So Fine/Bottom Line polyester combo.

I think it is also related to the machine thinking it knows what the tension should be. On my old Elna I could get in and adjust top and bottom tension.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannem (Post 6854936)

and our foremothers sewed it all by hand

And they managed the top and bottom tension admirably, one stitch at a time! Imagine!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghostrider (Post 6852825)

I won't even set mine down below 2.0 for paper piecing because it messes up the block size too much. For regular piecing I use 2.5 (a bit over 10 stitches per inch).

Here's how to convert back and forth easily between the settings and stitches per inch.

The basics:
The metric machine settings are the length of the stitches in millimeters. Example, a 2.5 machine setting means the stitches are each 2.5 mm long.
There are 25.4 millimeters per inch.

To get how many stitches per inch that setting equals...
25.4 ÷ 2.5 = 10.16 stitches per inch.
Dividing 25.4 by the machine setting gives you the stitches per inch.

If you want to get the setting to sew 8 stitches per inch, you go the other way...
25.4 ÷ 8 = 3.06 (round to 3.0) machine setting.
Dividing 25.4 by the stitches per inch you want gives you the machine setting you need.

Easy, yes?

Yes, easy! But, being empirically oriented, I had to go and measure. And my machine is not conforming in its actual stitch lengths to the mm/in conversion. 2.2 on my machine is 14 stitches to the inch, whereas the conversion formula result for 14 stitches to the inch is 1.8 (25.4 / 14). I should double-check the settings from top to bottom using a millimeter rule, which should be easier to interpolate.

Why my machine is so out of whack, I don't know, but as long as I measure each setting I should be able to work properly.

Thanks for the conversion formulas!

Are you kidding me? 1.8? That's less than the default setting. Surely that dealer hasn't ever had to take out a seam! I guess you had no problem with seams coming apart though. I usually use 2.8 or even 3.0. If I'm strip piecing I use the 2.8 as 3.0 tends to come apart when cutting through that. I want it to hold together but still easy to take apart if need be.

I have a Janome and always use 2.4 for piecing. No problem with my seams or ripping when called for.

Just think of all the quilts that have been in use for decades, washed with all kinds of methods including the old wringer machines ( and probably even washboards in some cases). You are just used to the high number of stitches per inch; even 10-12 stiches per inch on your machine will hold up as long as the tension is correct. Just keep working with the lower number of stitches per inch; you will quickly get used to it. (Your eyes will cheer; I can't even think about ripping out your early work without getting a head ache and crossed eyes):shock:

Joyce in Delaware

This is so interesting - I've just had this experience the past few days working on a Bargello. On my Baby Lock Crescendo, the quilting stitches set to a default of 2.0, but on utility stitches the default is 2.5. So, I used the quilt stitches (to get 1/4 seam) but I moved the length up to 2.5. I sewed all the segments together and after cutting crosswise to get the strip sets together, guess what - the seams were separating an the ends. Once I noticed that, I have had to go back (2.0) an sew several ends together again. It has been so frustrating. Yesterday, I started using Elmers glue to match up seams so I don't have to handle the fabric so much. That has really helped. So lesson learned - trust the machine's default settings. :) For me, anyway.

I was having puckering problems and mentioned it at my LQS. She told me that my stitch length was too short and to use a 3...whatever that is on my Bernina. It did solve my problem.