Terrific manual! Thanks for posting!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mRhcquZTM
Awesome! I had always been told to NEVER touch the bobbin tension. And then I got a long arm. Out of sheer frustration and at the end of my rope, I checked the bobbin tension and found nearly all my problems. I do the drop test as well, and am thinking I still have it too tight.
I never thought about checking the tension with the changing threads - great point!
Thank you for posting this. Again, Awesome!

I was having a lot of tension issues and found that my bobbin winder tension was too tight and was winding the bobbins too tight. Loosened it and tried a freshly wound bobbin...worked wonders. You might have to readjust your tension again with the newly wound bobbin, but then you should be good to go

Here is how I set the tensions on my TinLizzie18LS...and it should work for your machine also (works for most industrial type quilting machines).

Set the bobbin tension first:

Hold the loaded bobbin case in the palm of one hand (bobbin facing up)... pull on the thread coming off the bobbin case, and the case will start to come up off your hand, it may even stand on end...but then the thread should pull out straight and smooth, with just the slightest hint of tension. If the case lifts off your hand...loosen the larger screw on the side of the bobbin case about 1/12 of a turn (lefty loosey, righty tighty)...think of the screw as a clock face..loosen one hour.
If the thread just flows out and the bobbin case didn't move at all...tighten the larger screw on the side of the case one hour & test again.

Once you have the bobbin tension adjusted, you shouldn't have to adjust it again (unless you change the type of thread being used in the bobbin).

Now, you are ready to adjust the upper tension. Your tension dial has no "settings". Make a mark on the dial with whiteout or some kind of marker that will show on the black. You just want a dot on the very front of the nut that is used to adjust the tension. This will let you know when you have turned a full revolution or not. If you start with the mark at the 12 o'clock position and turn the dial a full turn, the mark will again be at 12 o'clock. This will really help you in adjusting tension in the future.

With the machine threaded, put the hopping (presser foot) down, and then pull on the thread coming out of the needle... the needle should hint at flexing/bending, but then the thread should pull out straight and evenly, with about the amount of tension a home sewing machine bobbin has. You feel tension, but not so much that you can't pull it from the needle without the needle staying flexed/bent.

To loosen the upper tension, turn the dial half a turn (lefty loosey, righty tighty) to the left...and test again.

Once you think you are close to what the tension should be...test on the quilt...check the underside for loopies (as you see in your pics) or pokies (small dots of the top thread color showing on the underside). I test for this by running my fingernail along the stitches...if you feel "tut, tut, tut"...tighten the upper half a turn and try again. If you see loopies...tighten a full turn and try again.

If the thread breaks while testing...then you need to back off 1/2 turn, then test..if you still get pokies...loosen the bobbin tension screw 1/12 of a turn...and test.

Other things that can cause bad tension (or what looks like bad tension) is the hopping foot is set too high, allowing the fabric to get pulled up by the needle. I think your pic shows the hopping foot in the up position, otherwise it may be a tad high (if the foot is down). Not sure you can adjust your foot..check instructions for how to raise lower the presser bar height.

You don't want the takeup bar too high above the bed of the machine. You should be able to just barely fit your fingertips between the bed of the machine & the takeup bar that goes through the bed of the machine.

You don't want the quilt too tight on the frame. You should be able to push up from the underside of the quilt with the fingertips of one hand, and just be able to grab them with the other hand.

I hope this helps.

You will need to adjust tension every time you change the type or even the color of thread...it's just how these machines work.

Also, make sure the keep the hook area and the tension discs clean of lint/threads/dust...tiny bit of lint can cause tension issues also.

Don't be afraid to adjust the tensions...this is not a home sewing machines...the "don't mess with the bobbin tension" rule is not in use on our longarm machines.

When you insert a bobbin into the case...the thread should wrap clockwise (thread feeds off the top of the bobbin) as you load it into the bobbin case. Thats a general rule...if it doesn't help...you can try flipping the bobbin over in the case. Most industrial type machines with feeddogs have to have the bobbin a certain way because they feed fabric a certain way...our longarms go everywhich way...so it's not as exacting as to how to load the case.

Don't be stymied because your longarm is older...the older machines are sometimes the better machines. Embrace it...learn what it likes and enjoy the learning process.
Marge

Are you using the correct size bobbin? and is the bobbin tension correct. I know those are simple, obvious issues, but sometimes we overlook the simple and the obvious.

I spent an entire day trying to solve a similar problem on my HQ16. I finally said,"Tomorrow is another day." and watched TV for the balance of the evening.

The next day,when I approached my machine, I saw that I had not elevated the thread on the 'high thread thing', so the thread was dragging and therefore not coming off the spool evenly. All was well after I re-threaded. Thank goodness. I can't see the spool on your machine so can't comment on whether the thread might be dragging because it is not threaded high enough to come off the spool evenly. Before that happened to me, I had no idea that could affect the tension like it did until I had the problem, so thought I'd mention it.

To set my upper tension, I turn the tension to its lowest setting. Then I sew a few inches, stop, check the back, adjust the tension to a tighter setting - then do the entire process over until the tension looks good to me. The back looks better with each turn of the knob, so I know I'm making progress. This system works well for me!

I have experienced the same thing with older machines. More than once I have cleared up this problem by installing a new "behive" spring. Stands to reason that the spring just gets tired after a whole bunch of years. Be careful when taking the tension mechanism apart, you want to be able to put the pieces back in the right order... This is a cheap fix, the spring only costs a few dollars, and it doesn't have to go to the shop, if you are reasonably handy, you can swap it out yourself like I have.

You have a mechanical machine (verses a computer sewing machine) Did you know when you change the tension, you have to have your presser foot down? I learned this interesting fact from a sewing machine repair man. He treated me like I was a dope, but honestly, I never heard of this before, and when I mention it to others they never heard of this before. So, you may have a really strange setting for your top tension. Once you get it to the right tension, you should be able to lift your pressure foot, and rotate your tension to the correct number. You may just want to try changing the number after you finish your project!

Couldn't one of the repair guys help you to be sure you have it threaded right? I don't know anything about this kind of machine, but if the repair guy didn't test it with the exact same set-up you're using, check anything that's different from what it had in the shop. One time my "tension issues" were actually caused by the thread catching on a damaged needle plate.

Am I seeing correctly in your pictures that there are some stitches that go along with no problem for several inches at a time? One other idea - really out of left field, but maybe not impossible - do you have flickering lights in your house? Slight disruptions in power could make the machine erratic. We used to own a house with aluminum wiring, built during the Vietnam war. Aluminum comes loose over the years, and the only solution was major $$$ electrical work. I hope you don't have that! If you suspect this, possibly get a heavy duty extension cord and plug it into an outlet on a different circuit. Even without aluminum wiring, it might be a good idea to get an electrician to make a dedicated circuit for this machine so that you don't have to compete for power with other items in the house. At least make sure it's not on the same circuit as the fridge, coffee pot, microwave, etc.. I just have a hunch that this industrial machine would draw more power than ordinary DSMs, and more than modern LAs.

I personally have no objection to reading a post like yours wherever it turns up.

Yes, when I first turn it on it runs perfect. Stitches are even and look great, then after that first uninterrupted pass it gets all wonky. Once it does that, then I have areas where the stitches are fine. Then the thread breaks or I get a jam or something silly. I have taken notes on all the great advice from ya guys and will be trying them out tomorrow. I didn't get time this weekend to put the additional thread guides on but that is next.
Last time I used it, it was a lot better just from the few changes I had made in my last post to this thread. Thanks a ton!! While it is frustrating to know the problem IS me, I am also very relieved that the problem is ME. I have learned a lot in the past few weeks with this old girl and starting to have some fun, which also helps if that makes sense..? Relaxing is a huge benefit to learning.

As far as the tension disks not catching the thread, I always adjust with the foot down and the disks are engaging. I did pop that out and noticed that there is a groove for the spring to sit in on the stem. After doing some research on that, I realized that when I put it back together I missed the part about rotating it 180* after seating the spring in that groove to set the initial tension. Now I don't have to crank it as far right as it will go just to get a little tension. This is a plus and has relieved the very thick looping as shown in the pics.
I don't remember who said it, I apologize, but the part about the height of the loaded frame was also a huge factor for me to begin with. I assumed that tension problems on a setup like this, only came from the machine. Wrong! If the quilt is too high, it messes things up. Same with it being too close to the bed as well. Or too tightly rolled. All these things work together with, or against in my case, the machine and the operator. I had my first one loaded, managed to quilt it over those first few days, even thought to adjust the height and tilt of the frame as I went along. When I loaded the 2nd one, I forgot all that I had learned the first time, about adjusting things as ya go, and just hooked and booked. Well, tried to anyways! Realized that a lot of my earlier "issues" were because the quilt was 2 inches above the bed and rolled way too tight, along with being tilted, this did not make for good results.

So, for now, I can roll with the random thread break so long as the thread that does stay looks okay. I sure do appreciate all ya'll, more than ya can imagine, believe me. You sure have helped my studio go back to a PG-rating, and my hubby thanks ya'll too! Especially for that, he says. ^_^

The part with 3 holes mum only threaded into top and bottom. No idea why but she always did it this way and her machine ran like a dream. I would undo and drop a some sowing liquid on and with a drop on finger wipe needle and bobbin area. It is only small amounts. Not like drop of oil. Good luck it looks like a great machine.

I have cleaned dried up oil off beehive springs and seen a tension work a lot better. Is the take up spring behind it gunked up? Some times I've taken a tension all the way apart, cleaned in de-greaser and put back together and for what ever reason - it works much better. http://www.tfsr.org/pub/technical_in...echanism_2.pdf I have found the info on tensions to be very helpful. You do have to be able to follow directions to a T.

I had a similar problem. I was trying to remember yesterday, what it was, but I remembered it had something to do with the bobbin. Now I remember. my thread guide for my bobbin was set wrong, and the bobbins were not winding evenly. Sometimes it would sew nicely and other times it was a mess. I adjusted the thread guide and rewound all the bobbins and the problem was solved.

****update****
 

Okay, first I have to say that all y'all are angels and I truly do appreciate the time and effort y'all put in to helping me!!!

I threw together a quick quilt to see if I could make some progress on this machine. I also added 2 more thread guides on the top of the machine, removed the nicked up thread bar of the top rear of the machine and really paid attention to every detail while loading this quilt. Took me 90 mins to load this lap-sized quilt, I was being so detail oriented. Lol! Then I ran off some bobbins, now I have been playing with the tension and position of the winder daily to get a good-looking bobbin. I think I finally got it, or at least close enough. They now look evenly wound although I am not too sure about the tension but, for now this setup is working good enough. Once I got all this going, I let her rip. Oh my! I was truly amazed and felt so competent, for once, on this machine. The biggest factor or lesson, for me, is to keep the quilt LOOSE! Not falling off loose but a lot looser than quilting on the domestics. I have gotten to the point now where I can actually hear the change when it's too tight, is that not crazy? I can also hear when the thread breaks and thus stop immediately instead of going all the way across with tons of holes.
I quilted this quilt, using a panto, in just a few hours with only 4 thread breaks! I know that doesn't seem like much of an accomplishment but for me, 4 for an entire quilt on this machine is HUGE improvement!! I also know why the thread broke those 4 times, it was my fault. Going to fast or the quilt was too tight. Like I said, thanks a ton! Y'all have no idea how much your help has meant to me, and the confidence I have gained by it.

I have a KenQuilt and I was having trouble. I finally figured out my bobbin was winding crooked, and breaking the thread when I sewed. Now it works perfectly if I watch and use my hand to make sure it is not wound at the edge too high and full. Check yours out. Turn you tension looser if your bobbin gets correct.

It was interesting to read this thread - I don't have a long arm but I learned a lot. I'm so glad you figured out your problem. I think you are on the road to being a master quilter!

I just noticed how you have threaded the 3-hole thread guide. Did you get that threading from a manual or threading diagram for the machine? If so, then you may want to ignore the rest of this post.

My Voyager 17 is a stretched industrial Singer and has a similar 3-hole thread guide, although mine is slanted. My manual has me threading it differently in that the thread goes through each hole in the same direction (not back and forth). On mine the thread goes left-to-right through each hole.

I'm thinking that the way that 3-hole guide is threaded could be causing your breaks, as the thread will not be evenly tensioned in that area (being threaded left-to-right then right-to-left then left-to-right). I would try threading each hole left-to-right and see how that works. If it's a problem, I would try threading them all right-to-left.