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Thread breaking and not locking
So I finally got a new machine, I picked the one I wanted (inherited a teeny tiny bit of money (just enough for us both to get the two things we've been saving for for years, from a great aunt who loved that I was taking after her sister-in-law, my grandmother, who taught me to quilt when I was 11) so I could finally afford it!) But I've been having small issues with it compare to my old machine. This one breaks thread a lot more. I think I broke thread only 3-5 times with the old one (that must be SOME luck I assume!) and this one does it almost weekly!? Also when I use #3 stitch (the locking one) it'll do one stitch and stop, I have to pick my foot up and start again where it stitches 2-3 stitches and then goes like normal. Why it needs that one stitch before working I'm not sure? It does it every single time. And with all my new quilts on it (4 so far) some of the threads using that stitch are popping and breaking where the locking stitches are. I've never used this stitch before so maybe I'm doing it wrong?? I've gone back to my old way of just doing 2-4 stitches at 0.10 and then going on at my longer length, like locking it myself. None of those break. It also struggles a LOT more over thicker stuff, especially where there are more than 2 points on a seam. Not even with the quilting, it's doing it while piecing!! It's breaking thread and it almost violently shifts everything to the left. I'm using 70/75 needles aurfil thread (50wt) and the tensions don't matter it does it at every level. When it goes over things it doesn't like, like thicker seams (cause 4 layers of quilting cotton is so thick! haha) the stitches get weird too, when quilting the line of stitches on the back looks great, but the front will look like one line in some spots. Even if there is one very teeny bit of lint the bobbin and the case both go crazy, sometimes one or the other, sometimes both. (and a nitpicky bit that pop-up plate sounded nice but it's REAL hard to get back in, I worry I'll break it every time haha!) Should I go back to my old thread, the coats and clark all purpose poly. (if you read my old thread when I was having issues with my old machine the "repair" guy told me to only use aurfil (which is of course all he sells!) and I loved it, but after using the C&C and a spool of something else that I can't remember now both worked great. Do you think this machine just doesn't like the aurfil? I know machines can be picky. I also have to change needles a lot more than the old machine, I used to be able squeak two or three smaller quilts with one regular needle, now I sometimes have to change it in the middle of a project?!?! sigh. I feel like I got a dud. Hope not since where I got it they were awesome before I bought it, now they don't really care. They just want to send me to the repair dept (when I had a question about use, not with an issue) they have no help center or aftercare)
But otherwise I do love the machine! The stitches are nice and even when things are going well, the amt of stiches might prove to be fun, the extra harp area is nice. |
Try an 80/12 Microtex needle. I got that tip from my service lady. My machine is a Pfaff and Pfaffs prefer 80/12 needles per my service lady. Found this to be true, I have way fewer issues with the 80/12 needle. I also started using Aurifil 50 wt. 95% time.
If I have issues I can pretty much chalk it up to operator error. |
It would be helpful if you'd tell us which machine you bought. Some of the newer machines have the capability for wider stitches (7-9mm) than the older machines (5mm). On machines with 7-9mm stitches the feed dogs are farther apart and when trying for a 1/4 seam, the fabric doesn't completely cover the right feed dog. That can cause the fabric to veer to the left.
Rob |
Agree to try the Micro-Tex 80/12.
My machine does not like Aurifil thread. It is gritty going through the threading guides and tends to break. Try a spool of embroidery thread and see what type of results you get. |
When the machine doesn't go over 4 layers of fabric, it may be helpful to tighten the presser foot tension. Sounds like your machine is a computerized machine, so it might have to be done on the screen. Mechanical machines usually have a knob on top of the machine, on the left side. Tightening the presser foot tension may also help with thread and needles breaking.
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Totally agree about using a different needle. I use a 90/14 in all my machines and have been using Glide thread. Please tell us which machine you have as all brands have quirks and solutions unique not them.
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Thank you so much everyone! I just love this forum!!
I got a Janome 6650. I've tried the needles that came with the machine the purple tip ones, and wow, I HATED those, they produced the absolute worst of the problems (to the point I thought the machine would have to go in straight away after buying it, but then once I tossed the needle the problems weren't so bad). Thread breaking horribly, the machine slightly jamming a couple times, the stitches were somehow very uneven, it was bad. I switched to my normal Superior titanium 70/10, I also like the 80, I'll sometimes piece with the 70 and quilt with the 80. Honestly unless the fabric requires something specific I grab whatever I grab either the 70 or the 80. I have used their 90 too, but not as much, mostly the 90 sharper ones for the occasional batiks, which I don't really like working with as much as the regular quilting cotton. I really liked the aurifil when I use the old machine, but I do find it to be very linty for me. With this one I just can't find my groove with it. I do have some of the C&C on hand so I might try to go back to that. When going over thicker seams isn't it better to have a lower number on the pressure foot? When doing lighter/thinner fabrics I keep it around 2.5-3 and when I go over thicker stuff I have it closer to 2. (and with real thick stuff like denim I put it lower than 2) Is that wrong? And Rob, thank you!!!!! That might just be the veering issue! I'm used to the smaller feed with my old Janome 6300 (5mm), going up to the 9mm might be the reason I'm struggling more with my 1/4" seam!! I really yanks the fabric over compared to my old machine. I'm slowly getting used to it, but it surprises me sometimes. haha. |
I do all my piecing with a 70/10 needle, but I use BottomLine thread, which is 60 wt. I like it because it's not linty, and it doesn't take up as much space in the seam, so it's easier for me to get the right seam allowance. The needle size is determined by the thread, and the needle type is determined by other factors, such as the type of fabric. There are charts and articles online to help you decide what needle to use.
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What WonderDunster said!
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there might be a problem with the machine if it is new I would check with them
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Have you tried doing a You tube search for something like " how to get a 1/4 inch seam with a Janome 6650? Or maybe on how to thread and use it? I sometimes find that watching a video helps me a lot. It looks like this machine came with two stitch plates and I have also found it helpful to use the single straight stitch plate when piecing. Just have to remember to not try and do a zigzag with that plate on. Have you tried using a scrap piece of fabric to start your stitching with or tried to hold on to the threads when starting? It looks like a nice machine. Whenever I have stitch problems, I unthread my machine, take out the manual and go through threading the machine step by step. Also I will pull out the bobbin and do the same. Sometimes I find I have missed a thread guide or not remembered to lift my pressure foot. Does the shop offer classes on the machine? I really like to take those beginning classes when I get a new machine. Oh, and I went from a 5mm machine to 9mm machine, and I had problems getting a nice quarter inch seam, finally problem solved to get an ok seam, but it was still more fiddly then I wanted so I get another machine going back to the 5mm machine for my piecing as those 9mm machines just don't seem to do as well because of the wider space for the feed dogs.
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I'm in the same camp as Dunster and Peckish.
Best of luck to you solving your dilemma. |
Originally Posted by gardengirl1331
(Post 8589008)
Thank you so much everyone! I just love this forum!!
When going over thicker seams isn't it better to have a lower number on the pressure foot? When doing lighter/thinner fabrics I keep it around 2.5-3 and when I go over thicker stuff I have it closer to 2. (and with real thick stuff like denim I put it lower than 2) Is that wrong? Just the opposite. Go to a higher number, it will help feed the fabric through better if the pressure is heavier. |
My Bernina has the wider 9mm feed dogs. I use my regular, clear presser foot (#34D), bump the needle position over to the right 3 bumps, then guide the edge of the fabrics just inside the feed dog hole. It works soooo much better, because the fabric is being fed by both feed dogs.
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I have a Janome MC6600P - it is about 12 years old, are you using the thread holders on the spindle?It may sound crazy but sometimes the thread will catch on top of the spool. Also, I use Sewer's Aid on my thread. It helps the thread glide thru the machine. And my machine has been serviced twice in 12 years and the repairman didn't find any problem or build up of stuff. I clean out the bobbin area often, and put the machine oil in the wick and around the edge of the bobbin thingy. If it's not completing the stop - that sound mechanical and I would take it in. There is no reason to fight with something that may be a glitch in the program. My machine came with three free lessons, so hopefully you can get this taken care of quickly.
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Well the stitches seem to work ok, aside from when it hits a seam and wants to pull to the left, now known to most likely be the wider 9mm machine. The problems seem to be thread breaking, not shredding or anything else, just breaking, and the breaking after the fact when I use the locking (#3) stitch. When I manually lock the stitch, by turning the length down to 0.1, it works fine. All the other stitches I've tried (which really isn't many yet since it's only a few months old now) seem just fine. But I've had 2-3 threads per quilt pop right where those locking stitches are after I've assembled and/or washed the quilt (I'll notice them when doing the binding or when getting it setup on the floor to take my photo after washing it). It'll do that weird one stitch thing, then it'll do 2-3 locking stitches and go just fine, then when I tack it at the end it'll tack it just fine. It's just the starting bit, it doesn't break anywhere else. So I'm assuming it's user error, or the thread.
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I'll try to grab the 80 needle over the 70 to see if it helps. I do mostly stitch in the ditch and around shapes. I rarely do any kind of fancier stitching since I have health issues it makes it hard to much. Like I said above I do use the 70/80 titanium topstitch needles, but maybe the 70 is what's giving me the trouble. I'll switch the needles and if it keeps doing it I'll switch to poly thread. I hate to say it but this machine has been more of a learning curve then I thought it would be, it's making me want to sell it and just stick with the 6300, but I worry about it's longevity and getting parts for it since it's an older machine now, and janome seems to be moving away from the 5mm machines, at least where I've seen.
Edit: it does seem to give more resistance when pulling thread through compared to the 6300, like it's tighter, I always thought the 6300 was too loose with that and assume this one is normal, but it takes a little more effort to pull it through, and yes I believe it's threaded correctly because it's a tighter pull before you even get over to the left of the machine. I do use the thread holders that came with the machine, but I'm using them the opposite way (which maybe that's the difference, I didn't know the, pardon I have no clue what anything is called, sticky up bits were supposed to face up and away from the spool, I always thought they faced down to hold it better, with them up it just clicks on kind of. |
it's making me want to sell it and just stick with the 6300, but I worry about it's longevity and getting parts for it since it's an older machine now, and janome seems to be moving away from the 5mm machines, at least where I've seen.
I noticed how much fiddling it took to get a good 1/4 inch seam on my new Bernina about 2 years ago. I tried everything, I can do it, but it does take some fiddling and I have to pay more attention when I stitch. Well, seems like I have not been the only one. Bernina now has added a couple of 5mm machines to it's line up. I just bought a new 475 and I am loving it, it will now be my main piecing machine. They also added a new one to their 7 series machine, the 735. When I bought my 475, the sales person told me one of her other customers had bought a 3 series machine (5mm) in addition to her top of the line bernina with the 9 mm feed dogs, just so she could piece with no fiddling on the 3 series one. The 9 mm ones are wonderful for regular sewing and those decorative stitches are wonderful. But it sure is nice to have a machine that has more bells and whistles but also has the 5 mm fed dogs. |
My regular seams are fine, I only seem to struggle when it hits another seam, then it REALLY yanks it to the left. If I go super slow and really go easy it works, but I can't waste that much time when I'm sewing 90" long seams and have to pass over 20++ cross seams! It'll take me forever to do that! But when I'm just starting and doing just a simple 4-8" seam I find it easier to get a real good 1/4" seam compared to the 5mm (but that might be slightly more due to markings on the machine and foot).
For the decorative stuff I just play around with it. I don't use it often. On my old machine I only used it to make blacklight costumes for my husband's band, and for a dress for me to wear to the shows. Otherwise I'd mess around for fun, nothing serious. I mainly bought this machine for the harp space, the hopefully better control over things and for something that will take me through the rest of my sewing life. But now I'm not sure. I don't use bells and whistles for anything in my life (don't own cell phone etc) which is why I bought this machine over a more expensive one (since I did have a bit of the money saved I spent the extra $500 or so on fabric!) but I wanted the bigger space and thought the 9mm would be a good thing. |
Originally Posted by gardengirl1331
(Post 8589153)
My regular seams are fine, I only seem to struggle when it hits another seam, then it REALLY yanks it to the left. If I go super slow and really go easy it works, but I can't waste that much time when I'm sewing 90" long seams and have to pass over 20++ cross seams! It'll take me forever to do that! But when I'm just starting and doing just a simple 4-8" seam I find it easier to get a real good 1/4" seam compared to the 5mm (but that might be slightly more due to markings on the machine and foot).
For the decorative stuff I just play around with it. I don't use it often. On my old machine I only used it to make blacklight costumes for my husband's band, and for a dress for me to wear to the shows. Otherwise I'd mess around for fun, nothing serious. I mainly bought this machine for the harp space, the hopefully better control over things and for something that will take me through the rest of my sewing life. But now I'm not sure. I don't use bells and whistles for anything in my life (don't own cell phone etc) which is why I bought this machine over a more expensive one (since I did have a bit of the money saved I spent the extra $500 or so on fabric!) but I wanted the bigger space and thought the 9mm would be a good thing. I would take your machine back to whomever sold it and have these issues you are having sorted. There’s no way your machine should be having these problems. |
Originally Posted by JanieW
(Post 8589159)
I would take your machine back to whomever sold it and have these issues you are having sorted. There’s no way your machine should be having these problems.
Would using a 70 topstitch needle really not be compatible with 50wt thread and quilting cotton? |
aurfil recommends using an 80 needle on it's Aurfil 50 weight thread. It is on their website.
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