I see a lot of people say stay away from Coats and Clark thread. I was told when I started quilting to stay away from Coats and Clark. When I was younger Coats and Clark was all I used, but the thread is not made like it was when our mothers and grandmothers used that thread. It is wound different and produced differently - it is not the same thread today.. Back when, Coats and Clark was the best thread you could buy - now it is a lower quality product.
Also, stay away from Walmarts etc., very cheap thread. That is what they refer to as the meddlings (spelling?). It is the thread picked up off the floor in the thread factories and re-wound into thread. It is very linty and very weak thread. Why spend all the time and money making a quilt etc., just to have the thread rot out after a few washings? Besides the fact that, that really cheap thread is not good for your sewing machine! Using Bottom Line or Serger thread is iffy too because it is a thinner ply thread. Bottom Line was made to use in bobbins because of the fact that the thinner ply gives you a lot more thread in your bobbin - you spend less time changing bobbins when quilting. Serger thread is made the same way because with a Serger you have double seams and the loopers to re-inforce the seam - so you can get by with a thinner ply weaker thread. I wouldn't use either to piece with. I want my quilts to outlive me - not fall apart because I used very nice fabric with cheap thread. I use Superior piecing thread, DMC all cotton, Mediera all cotton, or any good quality thread to piece with. I quilt with King Tut exclusively because I want my quilts to hold up for years and years to come! I may use Bobbin Line in my bobbin, but it is off set with the really good quality King Tut on top. I'd never peice with a cheap thread in the bobbin and on top. Just my two cents! Nancy |
I use to only buy Coats and Clark for my older machines it worked great, no problems after making sure I used the same weight for top thread and bobbin. In my Bernina, I have been using Signature and Gutermann, bought on sale of course, I kept breaking the Coat brand so tried others until I found the 2 that work best for my machine. I usually buy blades at Joann's but will look into Harbor Frieght and the other sites Thank you for the information.
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....and like buying groceries and price per ounce....check the length of the thread on the spools. Some spools are cheaper but the yards of thread are significantly less. I use Ariful and have found that I can use a more neutral thread for piecing most everything instead of having different colors to match the material. For me color is more important for the quilting that shows. Fewer colors of thread make a difference in the dollars too.
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Originally Posted by momto5
(Post 5746282)
I use JHittle wholesale for my blades...the last time I bought them they were about $136 or so for 100...and they seem to be good blades. As for thread, I use it all, including some my Mom had years, and years, and years ago...if you try to stretch it and it doesn't break, it should still be good. Hope this helps!
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Hi, I'm from MS too. Where are you in MS?
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Originally Posted by mommessy
(Post 5744783)
Harbor Freight blades have not been very good for me. They don't last long and skip quite a bit. I would stay away from them. I buy good ones now from JoAnne's with my half off coupons.
Robin in Brownwood TX |
tape a large paper clip to the machine and put the cones in a cup or bowl. This works fine for the larger spools/cones.
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It appears from reading posts that the "best thread" to use is whatever your machine likes. Linting is something we all have to deal with so just clean out the machine frequently. I sometimes get thread fro the thrift shop which works fine. If I find a store closing out and they have the old Coats and Clark, I buy all I can afford. Everyone has a favorite and the sewing machines have their own opinion......so my opinion is to use what works. Test the old thread and if it breaks too easily then toss it. Otherwise, all may be good.
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Originally Posted by auntpiggylpn
(Post 5744443)
Why do you say to stay away from Coats & Clark?
My favorite cotton for piecing is Aurifil. Several on-line places to order. I don't have my list here, but I imagine others have already posted. I find Connecting Threads cotton lintier than Aurifil. I like all of Superior Threads embroidery threads - especially the Rainbows. Ditto Floriani. Stay away from rayon - it isn't colorfast. All of this is my humble opinion. Others may disagree and have other opinions. That's the beauty of this board! Read what we all have to say. Then decide what sounds best for you. Rotary blades: I've been very happy with Harbor Freight's. We temporarily jammed up their system when we discovered them a year or so ago. So many of us ordered them that they were backordered by several months. I've found they DON'T work in Martelli's cutter very well. If you have a problem with one, it's so cheap, just throw it away! 2 for $1.99. |
Originally Posted by homecaregiver
(Post 5744836)
I also would like to know why you say to "stay away from Coats & Clark. They have been around for ever and I have never had a problem with it. I also use the Dual Duty.
Pat |
I haven't tried the blades from Harbor Freight as I use a 60mm wheel, which I love, it closes automatically. I would say to buy blades when you have a coupon from Joann's or what ever store you buy from, try harbor freight blades - but do not invest in a blade sharpener. Most of us have tried them, and there is hardly 1 or 2 quilters who like them. I have forgotten that I used to use scissors (1980's) to use fabric - never again. It would be like living without my microwave.
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I have not gotten around to trying it yet, but Leah Day is a big fan of Isacord thread. She likes the price and the performance. I've also not compared the prices in her shop to others on line but here's a link to her on line store.
http://www.daystyledesigns.com/isacordthread.htm |
I am looking for a pinking blade to prep my fabric before washing. I have an Olfa cutter. JoAnn's has a
Acme-Clauss Rotary blade. It looks like it has the same hub as Olfa. Has anyone tried Acme-Clauss Rotary blades in Olfa cutter? Comments? |
I am surprised to see only one mention for threads from Threadart.com I have used their threads for over 6 years now and have all my pupils on their threads. Very low lint on the cotton threads, http://www.threadart.com/c-661-cotton-thread-sets.aspx Their colour twist thread http://www.threadart.com/c-9-color-twist-thread.aspx is wonderful for embroidary and I have used it for quilting with great success.
I have an Elna 720 which loves their threads but my pupils have a huge variety of machines and their is not one that doesn't like it. Oh did I mention their prices, amazing low prices combined with superb service, do give them a try you won't be disappointed. As far as blades are concerned I get mine from EBay as being in the UK we don't have a Harbor Freight locally :) I don't have a sharpener but I do find that cutting thro' a few layers of tin foil gives a bit extra life. |
Thanks for posting this thread Megan, until about a year ago I didn't know there was much difference in thread or types, except when I took my first class in quilting. The teacher said to use 100% cotton cloth, and all cotton thread when using 100% cotton cloth. Last year someone had some comments on thread types and that is when I discovered there were differences other than price and content.
I have a whole new perspective to learn about thread now. Sorry for those who are out of work. I have my job which is good but less time for things I'd rather do, but the job allows me to have some money to do things with. Our wages are essentially frozen, we get about 2% raise, but contribution costs to insurance goes up about 4%, and parking is also up about 4% per year, so we are sliding in the wrong direction. |
I use Gutermann in my sewing machine. I have Viking Husqvarnas and they don't like Coats and Clark. I use Connecting Threads in my longarm. I've never tried any of their thread other than the Pro for longarms. I've been very pleased with it.
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I have a viking also and they ready do hate coats and clark, i found out the hard way.
my fave is Gutermann |
Originally Posted by Maggiemay
(Post 5744536)
I've had great luck with the Harbor Freight rotary blades. The Connecting Threads cotton thread I find quite linty- seems like I'm in the minority there. My favorite all purpose thread is Signature & I order it by the cone from http://www.wawak.com/
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I have been reading some saying some brands of thread are "not liked" by their sewing machines....I just don't understand that. How does the s/m know what kind of thread one is using? I have been sewing for a very long time, using all sorts of threads, new/old and all sorts of blends and the only time I really have to be extra careful is when using those metallic threads for embr/work and even then if using the right needle, correct speed and correct spool position it can be done. I also L/A and use either cotton or poly wrapped cotton, various weights..........If I find a thread breaks frequently while using even when all tensions, needle is correct, I have sprayed it very lightly with water, let it set a bit, or place in fridge overnite and this seems to regenerate the thread strands........just what I do, may not be for all
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No one has mentioned Aurifil thread. I love it for piecing. It is 50weight. Very skinny. I have used it for quilting also and love the way it sinks into the fabric. Aurifil isn't cheap, but there is lots on the spool.
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Please don't skimp on the price of thread. The cheap stuff doesn't hold up very well. You want your quilts
to stay together for a few years. I have ablade sharpener and it works pretty good, but it needs a new piece of sandpaper in it and I don't know where to get that. I would love to have the new one that is electric so that goes on my bucket list for later. |
I have been using Star 100% Cotton thread and am very happy with it. I frequently purchase rotary blades with coupons and manage to keep a comfortable inventory, which allows me to change blades more frequently and has consequently improved my cutting skills.
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I bought 10 pkgs of blades from Harbor Freight when we first heard about them over a year ago. They all worked great and I was generous and gave several packages away. Second batch was worthless!!! Makes me think because we overwhelmed the company their quality control suffered. I have to order on line because there is no HF store within 100 miles from me so it's really not cost effective to return them for credit.
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I buy cones of 50 wt. cotton Presencia thread for piecing. It lasts forever and it's thin and strong. You don't need a big hole in your needle. Your fabric lays flatter, and if you do a 1/4" seam, it is a true 1/4" seam because of the thinness of the thread. Lotss of spools are 40 wt. which is thicker and needs bigger hole in needle and fabric doesn't lay as flat and not as true a 1/4" seam. JMHO.
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I bought Harbor Freight blades and they were dull! Them out. Never again. You get what you pay for. I buy Gingher blades. Using first one for 6 months, still very sharp. Don't buy their cutter - too expensive. Use Olfa's - it works with Gingher's blades just fine. JMHO.
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I'm one to always try something new but I definitely have noticed a difference in how sharp the HF blades are--I'd just buy fewer and get them with cpons or ebay. Skip the sharpener...I've tried 2-3 different ones and they don't seem to really work.
Thread...I'm not picky. I'm like the user who uses poly on the cones. It works fine. I buy the stronger for quilting as the cheapest tends to break. But, basically, I use the thread I have--I have some old and some new. I don't like my thread to be too thick. I've used a lot of C&C in my time. I've never had a problem. I don't buy the el cheapo stuff anymore, though (regular size spools)...as it does tend to be very, very linty. I buy almost exclusively the cone sized spools now. It is a lot cheaper. |
I took a class on threads, and we studied them under microscopes and with magnifying glasses. Many threads, including Coats and Clark apparently, are short pieces of thread sort of stuck together with many starts and stops; in other words, not good quality. Auriful is the best quality, as seen under the microscope. Superior isn't bad. Gutterman is so-so. I haven't looked at Connecting Threads. The best thread is long-staple Egyptian cotton, according to what I learned in class.
50 weight/3 ply of most threads is good for piecing and can be used for quilting. 40 weight/3 ply is for quilting, holding the three layers together. It is thicker. Most machines will take those threads. 30 weight and 12 weight are mostly for decorative uses. Rayon is mostly decorative; I would not expect it to hold my quilt top, batting, and back together when the quilt is used a lot. 60 weight thread would not normally be used for quilting (Bottom Line might be the exception, as is silk, possibly.) There are other threads, other weights, and hand dyes as well. Many machines will not take every thread. (I have one machine, called the Old Piecer, which is a Model 15 clone and excellent for piecing, but it will not sew with a thread heavier than 50 weight.) I am cautious about YLI. I was in a class where we used YLI threads and 30 of 32 machines from a variety of manufacturers had problems with it, five or six machines having to go for repair. The innards of those machines were so snarled with that YLI thread that it took me five hours to cut it out of my Singer 301, which until that time handled any thread, and I am a sewing machine mechanic I had to take the machine apart. It is very loosely wound thread, despite wonderful colors. Spun polyester is the lowest quality of polyester, I was told. I do use Coats and Clark for homeless quilts. I do not use it for heirloom or "good" quilts. I think the dual duty is cotton-wrapped polyester, which works okay for clothing. If you like cotton-wrapped poly, try Permacore. It is excellent for general sewing and even quilting; google it or try ebay. I've used it for years with no problems. It is also cheap. It comes in cones only. I have had friends sharpen blades for me with portable sharpeners and they were dull within the hour. (I do a lot of cutting.) I bought a large order of the Harbor Freight blades and the first blade was fine. The following six blades wouldn't cut and some had big nicks in them, straight from the package. I won't buy them again. |
Great Post!
Originally Posted by cricket_iscute
(Post 5747999)
I took a class on threads, and we studied them under microscopes and with magnifying glasses. Many threads, including Coats and Clark apparently, are short pieces of thread sort of stuck together with many starts and stops; in other words, not good quality. Auriful is the best quality, as seen under the microscope. Superior isn't bad. Gutterman is so-so. I haven't looked at Connecting Threads. The best thread is long-staple Egyptian cotton, according to what I learned in class.
50 weight/3 ply of most threads is good for piecing and can be used for quilting. 40 weight/3 ply is for quilting, holding the three layers together. It is thicker. Most machines will take those threads. 30 weight and 12 weight are mostly for decorative uses. Rayon is mostly decorative; I would not expect it to hold my quilt top, batting, and back together when the quilt is used a lot. 60 weight thread would not normally be used for quilting (Bottom Line might be the exception, as is silk, possibly.) There are other threads, other weights, and hand dyes as well. Many machines will not take every thread. (I have one machine, called the Old Piecer, which is a Model 15 clone and excellent for piecing, but it will not sew with a thread heavier than 50 weight.) I am cautious about YLI. I was in a class where we used YLI threads and 30 of 32 machines from a variety of manufacturers had problems with it, five or six machines having to go for repair. The innards of those machines were so snarled with that YLI thread that it took me five hours to cut it out of my Singer 301, which until that time handled any thread, and I am a sewing machine mechanic I had to take the machine apart. It is very loosely wound thread, despite wonderful colors. Spun polyester is the lowest quality of polyester, I was told. I do use Coats and Clark for homeless quilts. I do not use it for heirloom or "good" quilts. I think the dual duty is cotton-wrapped polyester, which works okay for clothing. If you like cotton-wrapped poly, try Permacore. It is excellent for general sewing and even quilting; google it or try ebay. I've used it for years with no problems. It is also cheap. It comes in cones only. I have had friends sharpen blades for me with portable sharpeners and they were dull within the hour. (I do a lot of cutting.) I bought a large order of the Harbor Freight blades and the first blade was fine. The following six blades wouldn't cut and some had big nicks in them, straight from the package. I won't buy them again. I read this board a lot but don't post. Just had to say how much I appreciate your great info on thread sizes. |
I would buy the blades there is nothing like a sharp blade. I have a sharpener but I prefer a new blade and use the sharpened blade only when necessary. Go with the blades they are the best sale at Jo anns
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I buy the surger thread they have at joanns. It's about $2 for a big spool. It lasts a long time!!! I made a little contraption to feed the thread and just set the spool next to my sewing machine on the table. It is sturdy thread too.
Rotary blades...my mom found a good deal on ebay one time. If you can afford it, buy as many as you can(if you find a good deal). We haven't bought them in so long, I don't know where the best place would be to buy them at now. |
Try the rotary blades at Harbor Freight in their carpeting department. I use them all the time and they work just as good as the expensive ones and are 2 blades for about $2.49. As far as thread goes, I have used many different ones but I definitely prefer Superior Thread. I know it is a little more expensive but it is so worth it. The quality is uncomparable. I have also had good luck with Aurifil, my second go to thread. Stay away from the tread from Connecting Threads, there is so much lint that goes into your machine, you will be constantly cleaning it out.
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I have foun Connecting Threads thread is very linty and sure full up my sewing machine! So don't use that anymore and gave what I had away to a friend
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I use primarily Connecting Threads thread. But actually I have pretty good luck with anything, including Coats and Clarks. Back when I bought my Viking 870 I was having all kinds of trouble FMQ. Every shop recommended a different thread, as it turns out - the one they were selling. So I have quite a few threads, but to be honest don't really see a big difference except the some are a little shinier - sulky for instance. But they don't quilt any better. Blades - bad luck with Harbor Freight. They are cheap, but the one's I got (4) were all quite dull. Have one of those hand held sharpening gadgets - doesn't work very well. Interested in what other people have about the blades. Now I do what you are thinking - stock up when there is a sale.
People do say connecting threads is linty. I think all cotton threads are linty. I do brush it out every few bobbin changes. |
Harbor Freight Blades
Originally Posted by dunster
(Post 5744435)
A lot of us have purchased rotary blades from Harbor Freight. They're meant for carpet cutting but fit the major rotary cutters. I've been happy with mine, but some people have had problems. (Harbor Freight reportedly will replace or refund if you're not happy.) If money is tight, you might try their blades - much, MUCH cheaper than anywhere else. I have heard more bad reports than good ones on rotary cutter sharpeners. Usually when my blades go bad it's because I ran over something I shouldn't have and caused a nick in the blade. Sharpeners don't help with that.
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I have another reason why no one liked C&C. Until recently, the spool was the pits. They used a slit to keep the thread in place. Regardless of how you placed that spool, used a spool cap, the thread would get hung up somewhere. One thing about Coats - they usually have the color if you want to match older fabric. Metrosene and Gutermann seem to change shades every year. I've used serger thread, I like Aurifil and OESD. I've used some quilting threads, especially the multicolors for embroidery.
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I have found that if you sharpen your blades before they get dull it does extend their life. After cutting for a couple of hours run it through a blade sharpener and it really helps. I've used all kinds of thread from Connecting Thread, Missouri Star Quilt Company, Guterman, Coats and Clark and various others. Some thread make a lot more lint it's true but I clean out the lint after three bobbins go through it and it doesn't build up. I use long q-tip type and it grabs the lint to remove it.
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Originally Posted by Deb watkins
(Post 5744535)
"Connecting Thread is great for quality/price." I just ordered 4 cones of the polyester from the thread sale. It came very quickly. I ordered polyester, but it seems to actually be the cotton???? I have some other polyester that has more shine to it. I usually use the Robison Anton rayon thread and wanted to give CT thread a try. I love the fabric from CT!
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I invested in an electric blade sharpener which does the small blade as well as the next size up. Thirty seconds on each side and I have a blade which can slice through bone....just joking about the bone part, I still have my fingers. This has been such a good purchase, it has already paid for itself, and I have a brand new blade each time.
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I have the harbor freight blades and have been very happy. For the few I have had to toss it still works out a lot cheaper than the brand name blades. As for thread, my thoughts are I am making a gift for someone. I want this gift to last and hold up to the many washing and all the love. I took the time to pick the fabric and the pattern why would I skimp on the thread to construct it. I use Aurifil thread because it is the best. I buy my large cones from Sue's Sew Ez Designs. I purchase the black and white large cones for $30 each. Great price. I find if I use certain thread brands my machine is a pain in the butt. Rather than deal with the breaks, lint and knots I would rather enjoy the process and not the constant maintenance that comes from these brands. Lucy may not know what brand the thread is but she still lets me know if makes her ill.
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I have used Sulky, Mettlzer, Guttermann, to name a few for embroidery. I used cottons of Sulky, Connecting Threads, Coats and Clark, Serger thread, pre-wound bobbins, old thread of my Mom's, thread I bought at junk stores. All the threads, to me cause lint. It's the nature of cotton. Most of the time when I have a problems with threads, it's really the needle. I forget how long a I have used a needle some times. I was sewing on velco last week and the next day I couldn'tget the machine to sew although everything was threaded correctly. Then I remembered I had finished with the velco on that machine. Sure enough I felt the needle and it was sticky, gummy-like. I changed the needle and off I went... I think we have to be more frugal in today's times. Sometimes expensive is not always the best as I have learn as and I travel down this path of sewing, quilting, embroidery, threads, pins, and needles.
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