Using Your Ruler, Squaring Up a Block
 

As I just now finished squaring up my last and 72nd block for the current quilt I'm doing...ahhhh....done. I thought I'd ask everyone else how they square up their blocks and what kinds of tricks with their rulers do they use? I'm working on a, simple, old fashioned, log cabin quilt right now, so there's lots of seams and marks that I can line up my ruler with. I use every dot, dash, number, diagonal line, etc. that I can on my ruler. It amazes me how many marks there actually are.

For example, with the log cabin pattern, I do the following:
- Use a small, square ruler, which has all the marks I need, instead of a rectangular one.
- Run the diagonal line through the corners of the, "chimney."
- I can also measure the last couple of, "logs," and trim off at the 3/4" mark.
- I add white dots with my correction pen to the ruler at the most used marks to make things go faster.

Other things that I do when making a block are:
- "Split the difference" when something doesn't align properly.
- Finger press instead of using the iron to reduce distortion and save time.

I'm sure there are a lot of other small ideas out there that can make a big difference. What do you do?

~ Cindy

I always use a ruler with a 45 degree line and place that on one corner to the opposite one. trim the two sides and flip block and place again, and trimming the other two sides if necessary. Makes a nice even center block every time.

I don't care how hard I try, or what size seam I use, 1/4" or scant 1/4", my squares NEVER turn out to be the size they're suppose to be. For example, right now I'm in the process of making snowball squares out of 5" charms. Most, but not all, measure 5", some however, are 4-1/2", or 4-3/4" square. I finally gave up trying to be so accurate. If not trimming a block to the perfect size is good enough for Fons and Porter, it's good enough for me! :thumbup:

I found that I did a better job on log cabin blocks if I took the time to square up after adding each round. I also use my 45 degree line and have been known to fudge the seam if a block is a hair smaller than needed. I think the thing that takes the most time to do but ends up saving the most time in the long run, is to mark exactly where each block begins and ends on sashing and borders. It also helps to keep the blocks in alignment if I am not using cornerstones. I do follow the old carpenter's axiom: Measure twice, cut once.

Oh Munner, have you measured the charm squares BEFORE turning them into snowball blocks? I have found that not all charm squares and layer cakes are created equal--in size that is.

When I did log cabins, I always found I was short just a hair so my outside fabrics I cut 1/8" wider so that I could trim them down perfectly to the size they should be.

thanks for all the hints... i put a sticky on the ruler at the point i want to line up so i don't have to squint for the numbers

I'm like you, I square each block or else I'm so out of whack at the end that it can't get squared. That is one reason I paper piece as much as I can so the blocks are square almost automatically.

I find I am more careful about squaring if I consider the project as "special". Right now I am sewing a pre-cut kit where parts of it is missing and I don't seem to care about squaring anything. It's mostly HST's that had already been cut as triangles. I do still iron everything carefully, and ironically, after I checked the center medallion's first four rounds, I am within 1/4" for every side at 36 1/4". I did trim one small edge of an HST that bowed out.

When I do square I do it by centering the 45 degree on the center of the block with whatever square ruler I am using. I have all sizes. My favorite is my 6.5". Next is the 12.5", although the 8.5 & the 10.5 do get used every once in a while. I trim any and all sides that are oversized. There are fun times when I get to rip a block back up and make those seams smaller to bring it up to size. I fudge one way or the other if I have to.

I learned the hard way to trim each square as I go. Makes it look better when done. I am making a variation now. Heartstrings 45 x 45" I need to add to it to make it 45 x 65" Crib size. The pattern is in Log Cabin Fever by Evelyn Sloopy OR Sloppy. I don't remember the right spelling of her last name.

I have a ruler that is actually 14" x 14". The cutting area is 12" x 12" with 1/2" slots for cutting. It has a diagonal
line from each corner that crosses in the middle. The only draw back with this ruler is that you have to put your finger on the part of the ruler close to where you are cutting (the slit befor the cut) to keep the plastic of the ruler from moving. But I have learned to do it right and I love it.

I have a square ruler for every size of unfinished quilt blocks I make. I like to put the exact size on the square and it's so simple to see exactly what needs to be trimmed. If the block is smaller then the ruler I know I messed up somewhere. My biggest square is 20 1/2" and my smallest is 2 1/2". I seem to use the 12 1/2" and 8 1/2" the most. Olfa has a 7 1/2" square ruler that I have used more then I thought I would.

I have both sizes of the Block Maker ruler and it is essential for squaring up blocks when I have to use the blocks made for a quilt, example Friendship or Swap blocks.

This is kind of my experience, too. And I think I'm getting worse instead of better. When I made my first quilt my blocks seemed to be uniform....or maybe I was just too ignorant to know they weren't....but in any case they went together well, and that quilt turned out fine.

My practice now is to square up each block but in my current project I've realized I am lax in making them all the same size. I think I'm reluctant to cut off too much or am too lazy to find the smallest block and make sure all the others are the same size. But when sewing these together, with sashing, it shows if they are different sizes. I'm fighting that right now in the little, sans jars, "I Spy" I'm making. I can see that some are "off" a bit and it annoys the heck out of me.....but not enough to take it all apart and recut all those little blocks. I just resolve to know-- and do--better next time!

I have also found this to be a problem. I was supposed to cut charms in quarters to make 2.5" squares and had to add a border to the quilt to come out to the required size.

The size of your thread makes a big difference in the size of your blocks. If you are using 50wt 3 ply in top and bottom that is a very thick seam and will make your block smaller when seams are pressed to one side. Thread and pressing are the two major issues for blocks not to be the right size.

QuiltnNan, try using a correction pen for that job. (IE: White out pen.) It works great! You just make a small, white, dot close to your mark and it wipes off with a little water when you're done.

On this log cabin block, I found that using the 3/4" mark helpful to measure the width of the last 2 "logs." There is a small dot in the corner that matches up with the point where those logs meet up. It's just one more mark to go off of. I also use the 45 degree diagonal line.

~ Cindy

OnebyOne, what is special about Blockmaker ruler? What about specialty rulers?

I like the idea of the slots. They have to help keep your cutting lines nice and straight.

I don't have any trouble squaring up the blocks providing they are not too large. Recently I had to square up something to 18" and that was a problem for me as my largest square up ruler was 12.5".