What did I do wrong? Continuous binding
 

I followed the directions from the tute below ...

http://quilting.about.com/od/binding...g_strips_6.htm

After I sewed the tube together with one strip on each side offset ... I started to press my seam open and I noticed that because of the 1/4" seam - my lines no longer match up. Should I have offset matching the lines by 1/4" to compensate for the seam?

assuming that seam is your last join .. you needed to line up the lines before sewing final seam. i find i have to sort of roll the fabric (drape) to do this. i use this tutorial all the time. riperout and try again. gl

Yes. ;-)
Take the stitching out. now you can see the stitching line on both edges. Stick a pin thru the intersection of your drawn line and the ripped out stitching line on one edge, then put the pin in the other edge, matching the same point. I usually pin every other line.

So the tute is wrong?

I should offset matching the lines by 1/4" ... or as PP pointed out, perhaps the easy way to do it is to match the lines exactly, baste, rip, then re-match the lines at the seam line - not the edge of the fabric.

I'll have to remember this the next time I do it.

Thanks!!

Stick with this method because after a few hundred mistakes, it just started coming together correctly and it is the absolute best way to cut binding...just remember " If at first you dont succeed, scream , and keep trying :)

Getting ready to try this myself, wish me luck! I will probably be ripping out to!

Somewhere on the internet there is a tutorial that shows marking a straight line 1/4 across the what will become the bottom of your tube, and stopping at that line when marking your diagonals for cutting. I used that the first time I ever made binding this way, and it worked perfectly. Of course, I apparently forgot to book mark the site and now can't find it again for a more thorough explanation. But, when I last made the continuous binding it was off until I remembered this and marked my fabric tube accordingly. Hope this makes sense

These are the instructions I use:
http://piraterodgers.com/tutorials/cbt/

In these, you also mark the 1/4" seam so you can match the intersections correctly.

Pinning is your problem. How do you pin? You need to match the lines as you pin. Poke through your line. Now line it up with the line on the other piece of fabric about 1/4 inch down. Poke. If you aren't poking IN a line, then you are not matched up. The matching up is at the SEAM not at the edges of the fabric.

I found this picture tutorial that may be easier to follow than the one you are using.

http://modernquiltlove.wordpress.com...-bias-binding/

Pirate does it well. I still think it's difficult. more work than i want do go into.

I did a photo tutorial based on Shelley's tutorial.

http://sandyquilts.blogspot.com/2009...-tutorial.html

I can get 15.5 yds from a 1/2 yd of fabric .... that's definitely worth it..

Like you I could never get those darn drawn lines to line up correctly for me. And the cutting with scissors my edges were never nice and clean like with a rotary cutter. So I just cut bias strips and sew the strips together. That works best for me.

I draw my 1/4 lines on the fabric then stick my pins at the intersections on both sides of the fabric and I get it pretty lined up that way.

Thanks! That seems like the best solution .. and a step that was missing from the tute.

Thanks everyone!!

This is the point where most go wrong-they do not match the lines at the 1/4" mark which is the seam line-the marked lines will make an X- Iamcatowned is correct.

I've only made my bias binding like this once. SInce then I find in infinatly easier to just cut the strips on the diagonal and sew the strips individually. More than one way to skin a cat as they say.

I never draw the lines; I offset the edges by the bias binding width and when the tube seams are sewn together, I put a cutting board inside it (works well on my ironing board) and using a ruler & rotary cutter, I start cutting at one end, turning the tube as necessary, until I've cut it all. I hate drawing the lines and this no-line method has always worked well for me.

I like this site. easy to follow

Ingenious. So what size cutting mat do you use? That would be a worthy photo tute if you are willing. In one fell swoop you eliminated both reasons why I don't use the tube method of making continuous bias binding.

I have 1 really small cutting mat & 1 that is 16" & 1 that is 17" deep; I only make large quilts so either of those bigger ones will fit inside the bias tube. With the method I use, I can just pin the fabric edges together at 2" intervals before I sew them, which is not as precise as drawing and matching up lines, but satisfactory for my purposes. Also, I was given many rolls of adding machine tape back when I worked in an office and, as it is very porous paper, I can sew all bias seams onto the tape and remove it easily when I'm done; it very much helps keep the top and bottom fabrics from going wonky as I sew.

I make hundreds of yards of this stuff. Rule is to sew together on the straight or crossgrain. Knick the bias edge at the width you want the bias tape to be. (then sew the last seam) then I put the tube around my ironing board, slip a small mat under the tube and then use a straight edge and just rotary cut to the desired width. Haven't done any marking in years.

What I just typed about the adding machine tape is beside the point of continuous binding issues, but when I came back to edit this post and remove it, it was too late. I usually only use the paper support when I sew on the bias; it's much easier than doing heavy starching and then having to wash the starch out afterwards.

Maybe this video by Jenny Doan will help: http://quiltingtutorials.com/all/con...ns-bias-ruler/

I have to refer to the directions on this type of binding everytime I use it. I just can't seem to get the technique to stick:)

You want to line up your lines at 1/4" down the line from the edge of the fabric. As explained earlier you put a pin thru both 1/4" points so they line up after it's sewn. I've also drawn a short line against that 1/4" place to "see" to line them up. Because your lines are diagonal they won't line up at the edge but at 1/4" in where you'll sew your 1/4" seam. Clear as mud?

This is a great idea. I immediately see what you mean. Boy is that a relief! Thanx