What do you need before you purchase an embroidery machine?
 

In the fall the local library will be hosting a program on what you need to know before you purchase an embroidery machine. I will be doing the program along with a few of my machine embroidery friends.

Each of us did extensive research (we thought) before we purchased our machines. The dealers were great and gave each of us way too much credit for knowing a whole lot more than we did. We were so focused on research on the machines that we didn't do sufficient research on software, actually none of us realized we needed it. Stabilizers, thread, designs and many more aspects of machine embroidery surprised most of us.

The program will focus on the purchase of the first embroidery machine and will include information on the accessories necessary to begin with a few of the really want but not absolutely necessary.

One demonstration I would like to do is the same design stitched on from the smaller machine to the large machine. That way we can show the difference in time needed to stitch designs. These will be the regular machines not the multi-thread machines.

Please list what you wish you had known before you purchased an embroidery machine or what you would like to know now.

Thank you for your input and help.

I purchase a lot of my stabilizer from All-Stitch. They have a great FAQ page:
http://www.allstitch.net/department/...info-10242.cfm
I particularly like the info in the stabilizers - embroidery backings
The best thing I learned in my training sessions was to make an informed decision on choosing an appropriate design in the first place. While you can add a ton of stabilizer to a thin cotton and do a stitch intensive design, it's better to choose a more sheer design and keep the bullet-proof ones for canvas bags.

I am thinking about buying an embroidery machine so my friends that do have one have been giving me what I need to know lessons. LOL. The machines they have are high end Brothers and Berninas. One has a very inexpensive small size Brother bought at Walmart and her work is usually better then the high end machines. I found out she uses the best quality stabilizer and thread compared to what the others use and her work never puckers or wrinkles or is stiff. Why buy with a high end machine if you are going to use the cheap supplies? I think having a comparison of the same design using the best quality supplies and the less quality supplies would make a big impact on the potential buyers.

My low-end embroidery machine has a usb port and I didn't know about needing software to import and edit purchased designs. I thought I could just buy designs, put them on a usb stick and transfer them, but it doesn't work that way. After a month I found a reasonably priced on line program that works very well for me.

It was also amazing how much time I spent researching thread, what type, what brand, and where to buy it. The thread decision almost brought me to a standstill but I made a decision and bought enough thread to last me a while.

I think this is a valuable add-on to the embroidery machine info - Great idea!

You must realize that a design ANY machine stitches out is only as good as the digitizer created it - the machine only puts the needle down wherever it's told to. If you have a demo, the dealer will probably use a design built-in to the machine, so all machines should produce the same finish using the same design.
Be very choosy re buying designs - one can be overwhelmed by the masses on the internet, and you can end up with thousands of them, and hardly use any - also many are not well digitized.
Yes you do need a small software program to read the designs - shows them as pictures, not a list of names or no's. I think all brands should include one free with each machine, and dealers should explain how it works , before you purchase.
Also a brief explanation of what one needs, stabilizers, tear-away, cut-away, water soluble, types of threads and their differences. My Brother machines take all kinds of threads, so I don't believe in the 'best quality' spiel. There are some rubbish ones out there, but if it's smooth, fine and shiny, doesn't fall apart, it should be good.

Another decision is the size of blocks you plan to embroider. Do you just want to make labels or put names on things, needing a small hoop therefore a low end machine will do - or would you like to make, say quilt blocks, large, and need a large hoop provided by high end machines. How much embroidery will you want to do.
I am not a great fan of todays big machines, as all the new bells and whistles seem to take up more time, whereas the older ones, you mark your centre, put the hooped fabric in and away you go. Also some machines are simple to operate, whereas others are darn difficult.

Hope I've helped.

I was surprised to learn that not all sewing machines can handle all files -- even if the file type is correct. Some of the lower end machines I looked at could not do some of the more complex files.

Also, some machines can be hooked up directly to a computer to grab files and some use USB sticks (or other types of media) to transfer files from the computer to the machine. Decide which works best for your circumstances.

How long will the machine, its hardware and software, be supported? We all know that computers become obsolete within a few years. Technology changes; who do you know that is still using a ten year old computer? And if you are, you cannot use any new software. I know that some expensive embroidery machines are no longer supported. How long will the current crop last?

You have great comments and suggestions. Thank you and keep them coming.

My first embroidery machine did designs up to a 5" x 7" which was great. The stitch count was limited to a stitch count less than 50,000 stitches per design. The maximum speed was 650 stitches per minute. Some of the machines doing 4" x 4" designs maximum size will do less stitch count. The new top of the lines will do as much as a 9.5" x 14" and will do a design with a stitch count up to 700,000. They have a maximum speed of 1050 stitches per minute.

The choice is all about how much you will use it, purpose and then the all important part...what does it cost! The program will hit on these elements along with stabilizers, designs, thread, etc and all of the things you suggest that can be incorporated into the materials.

When the professional sales people start showing you what the machines will do, sometimes they don't mention what you will need in addition to the machine to achieve the dreams you have in mind. One lady I know bought a machine at her dealer and thought she got everything she needed...the machine and thread. Somehow she wasn't aware of needing stabilizer or how she would load designs into her machine. Just want the information given in a way that the shopper is more savvy before going shopping. All brands have great machines. It is just a matter of fitting the right machine to the needs of the shopper.

Again, keep the information coming and thank you.

That's what some of my friends think but I could tell the difference in their work then the one that used the best quality supplies. It does make a difference if I could see it and feel it, and I'm not an embroiderer.

I would say the right amount of stabilizers(very important so design doesn't gather up when stitched, the right size machine embroidery needles or top stitch needles, colors of thread(I like Polyester machine embroidery thread because it for it's strength( doesn't break much) & has a beautiful sheen). Scrap fabric to test the design out first before you stitch it out on something for real.

And I forgot something. If you want to purchase the embroidery software how much is it going to cost you for it and then for each new version. Some.... Like Bernina embroidery software costs you each time you upgrade it to the new version. Some don't charge for upgrades to the new version. Each embroidery software has it's pros & cons that come with it.

I think it's mportant to know if your machine uses a usb stick, what is the best size to use, do you need to use manufacturers usb, the difference in stabilisers and that you need different thread for embroidery machine than you use for regular sewing.

You don't need a computer program to transfer designs to your machine if you're not doing any editing to the design other than what you can do in the machine itself. All you have to do is format the USB stick to your machine before you load the design onto it. I have 3 machines and the only program I have is the free Wilcom Truesizer for changing formats between my machines.

No you don't have to use the USB sticks they try to sell you with the machine. Any USB stick will work, but the smaller the stick the faster the machine will load from it.

Cari

First thing is a good hunk of $$$$ LOL!! Sorry add to try and add a laugh about now

You need to have lots of money.

For me - the first hurdle was stabilizer and how to properly hoop a design; it makes a huge difference on the finished design and how it looks. Also, I have since learned that certain hoops are much easier to hoop than others, i.e. how sturdy is the hoop itself. After purchasing my machine I added on a 6 x 6 hoop and it's design is much thicker which makes the hooping process so much easier and it reduces the distortion/pulling of the stabilizer and resulting registration issues. Other things I have recently learned was the use of two layers of stabilizers in the beginning rather than floating tearaway on the back of the design while stitching. Other tips I needed related to products such as "Grip It" or wrapping the sides of the hoop with self-adhesive tape to reduce the stabilizer distortion.

First off a dealer that is dedicated to his/her business and will provide all the classes that you will need to learn to use your machine. I purchased 2 top of the line machines before I purchased the Bernina I have now. My dealer is now always giving classes showing us how to use our software and machines. The first two dealers were not so user friendly.

My machine is a cheap one that only does a 4 in design. I only wanted it for quilt blocks. It does the job nicely.
Had to buy Ped-Basic which was another hundred dollars.
Mine is a card insert not a usb stick.
Would have liked one with a big enough design to use to quilt blocks in a quilt but these cost as much as a longarm.
I love my little machine which was less than $400.
Downloaded designs for leaves, fancy red work designs, teddy bears, and nursery story designs. All for 6 in blocks.
It would be nice to have a high end machine but can not afford one.
Made a tablecloth with the leaf designs and a baby quilt with the teddy bears.

I really, really wish I could have borrowed an embroidery machine for a month or even KNEW someone that had one... just to see or ask what I was in for. There is a learning curve but its also an expensive endeavor.

I took a few craftsy classes on stabilizers (the first learning curve hurdle) that helped tremendously and refer back when needed. As someone that loves to machine appliqué on my DM, I though I knew a LITTLE BIT about stabilizers...WRONG!!! lol The classes discussed how to stabilize various fabrics, design density choices and needles. Hooping is another hurdle, it can be tricky and needs practice. A person can be shown or told how to do it but one needs to get a feel for their own hoops and fabric themselves, through trial and sometimes a bit of error.

I also wish I knew that I needed extra patience with myself, plenty of money to play with, lots of various stabilizers, tons of threads for all the beautiful designs, lots of needles, a pile of clearance fabrics and old clothes and towels for practice and testing. Machine Embroidery is more resource intense than I knew going into it. Once the learning curve is conquered one will see where and where not to be a bit more or less frugal with the resources. Cheap is not a concept that works with ME, for the most part.

I wish I knew more about thread when I started ME too. Good thread can also be expensive initially but does last a while. Some people can get away with cheap thread but some machines will simply not stitch with them. I certainly would have been thrilled to save a buck and use cheap thread if I could have; I had a Brother Designio that would not stitch with them period...not even ONE no matter what design, needle, stabilizer or fabric I used. Before buying large amounts of cheap thread, buy one or two and test if your machine will stitch nicely with it. It cost me more than I want to admit to learn that lesson. I'm a thread snob now but wasn't always so inclined...I was forced into snobbery by an uppity tantrum throwing EM.

Definitely how much extra expense is involved. Stabilizers, designs, embroidery thread, bobbin thread.

It always seems so simple when they demo -- just choose your design and embroider to your heart's content.

There have been really good points made here about stabilizers and threads and knowing what's involved in digitizing, deciding if you want to make your own designs -- again a lot more expense to purchase software and make it compatible with your machine. Often, designs purchased online also need additional software to make them compatible with your machine, or even just to resize them.

I think I would have liked to know more about how long it can actually take to make a design, and how it will tie up the machine during that time. You pretty much need to babysit it too -- not just get it started and walk away till it's done.

There is that patience requirement. It really IS a learning curve, and there is so much to learn! A person needs a reliable source to help them learn and get good information and that is often NOT the person you are buying the machine from.

I have a 10 needle, I started 12 years ago with an inexpensive Brother. Doesn't matter what machine you have or what you want to buy. You need to go to a dealer and test drive a machine. They will sit down and do their demo, but you need to sit down, thread it, change the bobbin, hoop something, make sure you can read the screen. Some of the less expensive models have do not have clear images of what you are embroidering. Ask to be shown how to go back a few stitches in case the thread breaks. As how to forward it to the next color in case for some reason you want to skip forward. Make sure they tell you how to transfer designs, not just how to use the ones in the machine. It should have a USB port so you can download designs from the internet with it. The machine should have some software built in for simple editing, and color changes. Purchasing software can be very expensive. Check into Embrillance or Embird. Very inexpensive and you can just purchase the basic module for starting out. Also, make sure the software is compatible with your computer, some are not compatible with MAC. Starting out you do not need $1000. software, if it comes in a package deal, tell them no and ask for a price reduction. You will need stabilizers, and thread, lots of both. I like iron on mesh for t-shirts, ironing it on keeps it from stretching when hooping. A medium cutaway is a must have on my list and for doing towels I like a medium tearaway. When embroidering towels, fleece or anything fluffy, I use a water soluble on the top to help keep the stitches from sinking into the fluffy fabric, it will get lost and won't been seen very well. I have black stabilizer for black t-shirts, beige for lighter thin fabrics, I mostly use white. I buy prewound bobbins, I do wind my own for some things. If you choose to wind yours you will need bobbin weight thread and of course bobbins that fit your machine. I purchased a bobbin winder from Brother. Do not buy any after market hoops, or fancy hooping aids until you get used to your machine and figure what you really need. The issue of thread is a tough one. I use embroidery thread, polyester, I get most of it from Metro Threads. I have tried some of the big name brands and a few other off brands. My machine will take anything, never have had any problems. Some people say their machine doesn't like xyz brand, the machine doesn't know what brand you use. It's probably a tension problem or some dark colors I've heard do break a lot, I don't know why. If a design calls for Floriani #123 yellow, you can use any color yellow you want. The machine will tell you to put #123 on but you can put any color number or color you want, it won't know you put green on instead of yellow.

Make sure you have hoop sizes that will produce larger designs--some machines only come with a 4x4 hoop and that is not large enough--5x7 is very popular but get a machine that can handle larger hoops. Also, a machine that will cut jump stitches is very convenient. Learn how and when to use the stabilizers--sometimes you have to float another piece under your embroidery to produce good stitch outs. The various machine manufacturers want to sell you their software but there are several that will do the same thing and are a lot cheaper. A lot of free designs are by beginning digitizers. Over time you will learn who are the better digitizers.

Seems like there is a lot to be aware of -

How much time do you have for these classes? How many sessions?

So far, some of the topics that could be covered are:

Machines
Hoops- hooping
Threads
Stabilizers
Designs/ computers
Cost

So far, I have been avoiding embroidery machines because I do not want to start a new category of expenses for supplies!

Today I read a machine embroidery trick that I am going to do. The article said to put a baby monitor next to the embroidery machine while it was stitching so if you had to step out of the room you could hear if a problem developed. That will be the thing I begin my garage sale search for soon.

Please keep up the suggestions, tips and questions. Thank you

Great observation. Worth sharing esp because machine embroidery has a steep learning curve and it is an expensive hobby. Kind of like fabric...buy the best you can afford.
sandy

Who presented the library program? What does machine embroidery have to do with a library or was this a presentation from an outside expert? Keep your presentation general and not too mired in details. An overview vs a lesson. Each machine is different and unless you are familiar with each, you will become the teacher.
sandy

Embroidery machines are a whole different facet of sewing for sure. I do not have one nor do I want one because I know that the cost is great and all the 'stuff' you need is also expensive. I know from discussions with friends who have them that they spend far more for thread, software, stabilizers, etc than I spend on fabric. I guess you could say they have a thread stash. I do think that the product they produce is an engineering marvel.

I will be doing the program. The program will not be about selling machines. It will be informational. My embroidery friends and I have found when we were buying our machines you can do all sorts of research on the actual machines. The dealers are great to show the wonderful features each of their models boast. What is sometimes (not always) missing is the information concerning software needed to view designs on your computer. I am not referring to digitizing or anything more than seeing the design and maybe changing the format. Somehow that is not referred to in research done on machines. There is the stabilizer, thread and many of the things already mentioned by all of you creative thinkers.

The goal is to have consumers aware that buying the machine is not all there is to the embroidery experience. For instance one lady was thinking about buying a machine and she told me she had plenty of thread. She didn't realize thread she used for piecing or quilting wasn't necessarily what she was going to need. Those are the types of things...not information on a particular brand, model, etc of any machine.

Please keep the suggestions coming. They are helping so much.

PS: The local library offers a variety of different programs. Lots deal with crafts then there are the book club meetings, etc. Our library is wonderful.

The baby monitor works well, I bought the cheapest one Wal-Mart has, probably spent about $25. I've had it for about 5 years. My husband has a wood shop and we use it for that also so I can call him for dinner.