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I use 1.5 for piecing using a size 80/12 topstitch needle and 50wt 2 ply or 60wt thread. I use very thin thread cotton or poly. I use the 50wt 3 ply and higher weights for machine quilting.
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I use a 3.0 or 3.2 on my Janome 6500. I haven't had a problem with stitches pulling out and I can get them out easily if I have to.
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I use the Bernina pre-set for my regular piecing unless paper piecing. I shorten the stitch for PP to make removing the paper easier. I do backstitch at the edge of all my block seams. This secures them so the edge doesn't pop a few stitches before the quilt top is sewn together.
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I use 12-15 on my FW.
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Thanks a lot for your replies. Seems as if I'm in good company. :)
I will try 1.8 (which I think is the Horizon piecing stitch length) and see how I like it - just for kicks. Thanks again, Cathy |
I use somewhere between 2 and 2.5 for regular piecing. My older machine is not more specific than that. :) For paper piecing I drop it down to about 1.5, roughly.
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I use 2.0 for regular piecing and 1.5 for paper piecing. I would think that 3.0 would be closer to basting.
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I use 2.5 most of the time on my viking mega quilter.
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I'm with EasyPeezy and use 1.8 on the Janome 6600 as well ... same reasons!
The finer stitching creates a sharper seam, without the shifting you get with the longer stitches. While the default as mentioned above is 2.2 ..... I changed it to the 1.8. Also, I changed the needle position of 3.5 default .... to 4.5 as that's where my needle needs to sit for 1/4" seams. |
I usually use the 2.5 default but will cut it down to 2 when the fabric frays a lot. Paper piecing also requires a smaller stitch (or the seam will come apart when the paper gets pulled).
On most instances of seams coming apart, I believe that the problem is not the stitch length but an uneven alignment of the two layers. |
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