What is wrong!
 

I swear I can make a pinwheel no seam issues. Not one. My block comes out 12.5. Yet I follow a pattern to the t triple and quadruple checking every measurement and I'm coming up 1/4 short for 12.5. What is wrong!!!! I am trying to tweak my tape line to make it right because my 1/4 guide foot just ain't cutting it.

Hi, have a lie down. Eat some chocolate. Breathe. If you read lots of posts on this site, 1/4" feet on most machines are not really 1/4". You have to move your needle (if possible) or do like you are doing with another fabric guide. Here's a good tutorial:

http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ce-t89997.html

The 1/4" foot is approximate. I have one and have to change my needle position if I change thread size or go to flannel or homespun from just quilter's cotton.

Another alternative is if your quilt is made out of just the pinwheel blocks, then go with the 12.25' ones.

This would be the time my mom would have told me I was done sewing for the day. I agree with PaperPrincess, just walk away for a bit.

One of my favorite quilter gals is Mary Ellen Hopkins. As she would say, "That is YOUR measurement." Stay with it. My quarter inch foot gives a very generous quarter inch seam. Unless I've got a pattern where the quarter is crucial, I just go with my measurement. When I do need to make an adjustment, I either move my needle one place or use a focal point on the foot to bring my seam out a bit. I'm not quilting scientist. I try to make it fun. My quilts do have inaccuracies. But I'm having so much fun. I hope you've relaxed and are having a better day.

Go back and measure each seam, to see what's causing the problem. If all else fails, I'd just make the pinwheel section a tad bigger, then trim it down to size.

Another reason for the problem, may be your HST seams. Some patterns assume you'll use a scant 1/4" there. I never did like the scant 1/4" practice, as IMO the bias seams need more stability, not less. However, many people seem to think scant seams are the way to go. :rolleyes:

I had the same problem of blocks not being the right size when I first started sewing 1/4" seams.
After many classes with great instructors and knowing my fabric is cut to size I learned:
1. Use thin thread in top and bobbin
2. Press my seams open or tug and press the seam to one side. Keep iron in place longer for it to do it's job.
3. Twirl intersecting seams open
4. Use a longer stitch length 2.5 and backstitch at beginning and ending.
5. Keep index finger against the left side of the foot when coming to the end of the seam. This keeps the seam from veering right.
6. Sew slow, slow enough to count each stitch until you can tell by sight the seam is perfect.
7. Hard to match seams, glue baste them then sew.

One thing I learned that has held true and it's not known by most is if you are cutting strips of fabric you have to true up the edge after the amount of cuts the width of the strip. Example: if you are cutting five strips at 2 1/2 " you have to true up the edge after cutting 3 (rounded up) strips. Pieces cut 5 inches you have to true up the fabric edge after 5 cuts and so on. This is where a lot of frustration comes from, fabric being cut just a tad off even thought it looks fine.

One thing I forgot. I guess because it has become second nature to me now. I use a clapper to flatten all my seams after pressing.

I'm trying to make a star block and that's where my issue is. After ripping it out a thousand times I think I got the issue fixed.

I'm going to put together another one to make sure it's all fixed up. I did a simple block that I just had to trim to size so I got rid of some of my frustration. My mini Oreos are all gone so that took care of what was left. Lol.

The blocks I'm making are for a swap so they have to be 12.5 unfinished. And I'm determined to make this star block dagnabit. I've always wanted to make one and I'm finally going to do it. After these blocks are done I'm gonna do a simple patch quilt that will give my brain a rest after all this. I'll be happy to never see another 7/8 measurement again lol

We feel your pain. Many of us 'have been there and done that'. Chocolate, wine and time away will help :)

I also agree that the problem could be your 1/4" seam. Thread and pressing can also effect your blocks size.

I have tape on my machine that I have marked 1/4 seam. Since I have done that, 95% of the time my block are spot on.

Good luck

If that happens with all of them then the quilt will be fine. Just about everything I do is a little off/wonky. Like PaperPrincess stated take a break. And let's thank her for sharing her 1/4" link.

I had the same problem and as others have mentioned, it was because my 1/4" foot was NOT 1/4". Fortunately on my machine I can set a custom needle position and save it, so now my machine defaults to the correct position to give me a 1/4" seam with my 1/4" foot. I just have to remember to reset it to true neutral for other feet or other seam allowances!

That last sentence caught my eye.
Do you have a name of the star block you are working on? Sometime if 'we' know the block, the questions and answers are clearer.
When I am working with 7/8 measurement, I will round it up (3 7/8 = 4), then when I have the HST sewn I trim the square HST to 3 1/2. BECAUSE I almost never can get the right 'scant' 1/4 seam when working with 7/8.

Sounds like this might be made with a lot of triangles? The first thought that came to mind was the triangles not being cut to correct size - thus finishing out a smaller size than expected.

I feel your pain though. Been there a few times - sometimes because of the foot on my machine and sometimes just because I figured the measurements wrong in my head. I agree with stepping back for a while and coming back to it. It's easier to think of a solution when you're not full-blown frustrated.

I have sewed on many different makes of sewing machines. The only one I found that the 1/4 in. was true was my Bernina. And its a scant 1/4 in. I love it.

As long as all your seams are the same your finished quilt will be fine.

Ahhhhhhhh. Ok all together now. Happy dance happy dance happy dance!!!!!!!

I fixed it. My star block turned out right!!!!

And I told df if he ever touches my tape I will chop his fingers off and feed them bit by bit to the cats!!!!!

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7471f4e3.jpg

I don't know if that will work but that's the block I've been working on. It took a couple hours last night cutting the pieces because I went so dang slow.

Very nice block and well done to boot! I, too, round up to the full inch and then trim my hst's to size. So not worth the aggravation to me to be that stressed over sewing. It takes a bit more time with the pressing and trimming but it's worth not having to rip, at least for me. Also press all my seams open which I find makes things line up easier as well as laying flatter.

All of the above mentioned are things I do try to do, am wondering what is a clapper to flatten seams after pressing? I do know that achieving the 1/4 inch seam is something that is not that easy to end up with. Not sure why. Just a little variance along the way and there you have it. I think anyways.

Love your advice.

I found out that when I used my steam iron, some of my fabric squares would shrink ! I really have no answer for you, but measure again your seams.

Here is a link to a basic clapper. I prefer the clapper with handle. June Tailor use to sell one but discontinued it. I heard it was coming back on the market for quilters now that most know what an excellent job it does for seams. The wood absorbs the heat fast and any moisture if using steam. If you see one at a thrift store or yard sale, grab it. The professional tailor clapper is very expensive.

http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/tailors+clapper.do

LOL, I have always assumed the "scant" 1/4 inch seams are because they didn't do it right in the first place, not because of me. I have never heard of anything so silly in my life than when I started quilting and learned about "scant".

Took awhile but after several blocks got my machine needle set so my blocks come out the right size.
Try a simple three strip test with 2 1/2 in strips, to see if the middle strip finishes at 2 in.
Had to adjust my needle to 2.3 on my Viking.
I bought a half in ruler also for marking blocks for HST.

Scant 1/4" seams are necessary for those that use thicker thread. Thick thread fills out the scant to make a full 1/4". 50 wt 3 ply and 40 wt thread was the standard for piecing years ago. Sewers learned to use the scant seam to get accurate seam width. Most haven't changed threads to the thinner ones available now.

Just because the manufacturer says it is a 1/4" doesn't mean it isn't a tad off and as we all know that can really make a difference when pieces absolutely have to match up. I use the tape method and it works for me very well. The "scant" 1/4" seam drives me bonkers, exactly what is a "Scant?" Anyway I'm about to embark on a project that specifically states use a "scant 1/4" seam" and that if you don't the pattern won't work. Well that should make me put the pattern away, but I love a challenge and it is a gorgeous pattern so break out the chocolate and let the games begin.

Thanks for the info on trueing up the edges after cutting a few strips. I thought I had done something wrong, couldn't figure out what it was! This was happening every time I needed to cut more than 1-2 strips of the same size.

DON'T USE A 1/4 INCH. Use a SCANT 1/4 INCH and you should be fine....try it and see if that works for you.

I have started using 60 wt Aurifil or if I'm using 50 wt. I press my seams open. That way I can use a regular 1/4". "Scant" means something different each time depending on thread and fabric thickness. Adjusting the needle can take a while to get the right combination. I've sewn garments for years and had no fear about an open seam not being strong. If an open seam can hold clothes together through wearings and washings, I think it will hold a quilt together. Also they are easier to hand quilt and many award winning quilters use open seams.

I have created a piece of heavy cardboard with an exact 1/4" edge on it and since I have several machines (including a couple that think "they" want to reset the needle every time I turn them on). I put a piece of 1/4" painter's tape (which actually is a scant 1/4") on the edge and measure from the line on my machine to the to the actual needle point every time and on every machine before I start sewing. My faithful 1950's 301 and Featherweight are always right on the money every time , the newer ones always have to have the needle reset every time I turn them on. Maybe this will help. After having to redo a number of strips because the needle was off just a tad, I came up with this. I can put the needle down slowly exactly to the correct setting on my "needle setting creation".

Have you tried
 

What is wrong!!!! I am trying to tweak my tape line to make it right because my 1/4 guide foot just ain't cutting it.

Using starch? I don't cut anything now unless I have starched it (regular spray or newer non-flaking kinds). Especially when making triangle anything. Also I have quit using steam until the block is complete, I found that steam will "let" me distort the block. Good luck!
Barb in Kansas

My blocks used to do that too. Now I don't iron until my block is done! finger press along the way. Ironing stretches the fabric. When I started doing this ALL my blocks come out perfect!!!

If you don't true up the edge you end up with strips that make a V shape at the fold.

Not if her blocks are going to go along with other quilters blocks! Her questions are good, find out why, then fix it.