http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-44258-1.htm

it starts out with a written instruction, and then further down the pages, there is a pictorial, step by step tutorial ... It is super fast! and it will use up the strips.
How to figure 1600"? Consider that a strip of fabric from selvedge to selvedge averages 40" ... 40 strips will give you the 1600" required. You don't have to use full strips ... just make sure the strips you use end up with that final 1600" total.
Further on in the thread, you will find numbers telling you what different widths of strips will yield for a finished quilt (no border included) ... if you have any questions about that technique, just post on that thread, and the originator or someone else will help you - - that is what we are here for <wave>

In the picture, the darks were 1.5" and the lights were 1" ... if you reverse that order, you will have more color and less light ... lots of people like the larger light area for quilting purposes. (I think it is the "artist" in some of us <g>) ... if you use the "search" link at the top of this page, and type "log cabin quilts" in the search box, you will find LOTS of log cabin ideas in the Quilting Board for your inspiration. <wave>

To the original question, I love using 1" and 1.5". Love the curvy effect. I've made two of those. The others I've made were all 1.5" I believe. I've made at least five others. 2" is just too wide for me.

Great link! Thank you for sending it along. I found a log cabin variation that I would like to try - "Light and Dark." I certainly need to reduce my 2" width stash as I am constantly adding to it!

I am making a log cabin now from 2" flannel strips - all dark woodsie masculine solids (navy, brown, maroon, forest green, gray, etc.)and prints for my youngest grandson (age 2). I want it to look like it was from a real "log cabin" in the woods years ago. My plan is that it will grow with him, since it is not made with children's prints, and hope he takes it to college with him someday!

I just finished a twin sized rail fence with part of a jelly roll with insect patterns and an orangish border. Finished with applique of a large leaping frog on the bottom half. Came out great. If I ever get a photo I will post.

you get a very different look when you use wider strips, maybe make a few practice blocks using different widths to decide what you like, the ones you decide against can then be used to make potholders, or tote bags, ect. there are some log cabin quilts that have different width strips in the blocks too...make up some different ones and play. :)

Mine is .75".

This is a GORGEOUS quilt!! I love the "movement" in it. Does this particular quilt have a pattern name? Did you come up with the pattern, or did you find the pattern somewhere? I'd love to know the source of the pattern as I would be interested in attempting to make a quilt similar to this one. Thank you for posting the photo - :-)!!

http://www.quilterscache.com/L/LogCabinStarsBlock.html

here is the link for the log cabin stars. I am currentyly making one also. Somehow with all the requests for quilts though it has landed in the UFO pile for a little while.

For those of you that have made a log cabin quilt -- do you cut all the strips the correct length before you sew them together?? I'm sure that I would mess that all up! :lol:

I never have, and there are some forms of log cabin that it is nearly impossible to do it (diamond log cabin comes to mind) ... however!
I have read all the reasons to cut the correct lengths before starting, and I am beginning to think that those who propose it are correct!
Get yourself some clip clothespins (if you are very young <g> you may never have seen one, but we will help you! LOL)
Anyway, with a sharpie, you can mark the sizes of strips you need to cut, do some math to know how many to cut to that length, and then just put the correct strip in the correct clothespin - - with chainpiecing, you will be on a good path <wave>

First time I've ever seen the curved placement design...talk about dynamic and beautiful! Thanks for posting this photo.

I like to do this as it gives you a sort of running check that all your seam allowances are OK. If the strip you are currently adding is too long or too short, you can see straight away that a seam(s) must be wonky!

I tried, but found I lack the patience and fortitude to do this. It delays getting to the sewing a *lot*! Since I have strip-pieced log cabins without problems of accuracy, I have gone back to strip piecing and cutting to size as I go. Just works better for me.

Thanks everyone for your replies!! Since my sewing isn't ALWAYS that precise, it sounds like a good idea to cut all the strips ahead of time. I guess I'll just have to cut a little while sewing on another project so that I don't get burnt out on making the quilt before I get started sewing...

And, Omak, to really date myself, I had to hang out clothes when my daughter was little -- in the winter. Darn frozen diapers :lol: :lol: :lol:

That was fabulous.

LOL ... isn't life experience a WONDERFUL thing??? LOL <wave>

Check out quiltville.com for free patterns, many are made with 2" strips.

thank you all for the information. God bless. Penny

Thank you guys for this thread. I also would like to make my first log cabin from my scraps. But question, What about hand quilting - is hard to quilt with the strips not being so wide? Or would it be better to press open (now that scares me, 'cuz then the seams aren't protected as well) or am I being too parinoid (not sure of spelling). lol

With narrow strips in a log cabin, you have the prospect of a *lot* of seams to hand quilt through. One solution is to just hand quilt a line through the middle of each log. You can spiral, or make concentric squares to minimize the seam allowances you have to cross. With wider strips, you have the option of outlining 1/4-inch inside each strip, never crossing a seam allowance.

I'm not paranoid about pressing seams open if the seams are made by machine. The original reason to press seams to the side was to strengthen hand-pieced seams. Machine-pieced seams are strong enough. I wouldn't use a polyester batting or wool batting with seams pressed open, though, because of the higher risk of "bearding" through the seams. (As far as I know, cotton batting does not beard.)

I think it would be a pain to press seams open for log cabin blocks, though. It's more difficult and time-consuming to press a seam open than it is to press it to the side. The big reason to press seams open is to achieve better accuracy for intricately pieced designs.

I agree Prism, I have hand quilted several log cabins with no problem.

watching this thread

wow, fantastic link/guide - thanks

:thumbup:

this is gorgeous!! love the blue! I am just starting a log cabin, with paper piecing, because I struggled with making one block wihtout it getting all mixed up with lights, and darks in wrong posititon. lol. So I am cheating I suppose, and marking the paper I printed with an " l " and a " d" to help me remember! You did a great job!

Hello. Have you seen this site? Various widths of strips, you could use a lot of your 2" strips in these. I have made a couple different ones , very pretty.
http://www.ohfransson.com/oh_fransso...ilt-along.html

I want to make the quilt as u go log cabin, i just thought it would b fun, and using 1 3/4- or 2 inch strips, has anyone done one like that??? I want my squares to b 10 inches, or i might change to 12 inches. Is anyone good at math or know of a sight to help figure out the yardage for a king size quilt, i would appreciate it. I will add two borders all the way around and maybe sashings in between. thanks for the help. And a big thank u to the person who startest this great topic, i love log cabins and the color red, so mine will be reds. thank u