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Originally Posted by katier825
(Post 7751757)
I've had the best luck with the 1/4" foot that has the edge guide.
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Welcome beginner, I have several ways not sure what machine you have; but all machines come with open toe foot if your machine does not have needle move position to 1/4" seam. Align your fabric edge with the edge of your open toe foot, (please use scrap fabric) then one you have stitch seam take it out and measure should be prefect 1/4" seam.
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As a "true beginner," I used a Fons & Porter ruler; draw a line to follow. Later used a "free John Flynn card" that had a 1/4 inch ruler guide. My new Janome has a 1/4 foot and has multiple coded patchwork 1/4 settings. I use a 1/4 metal guide to check accuracy. This was suggested on a Training Online course.
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I have tried all different ways. For a long time now I just use the 1/4" line on the throat plate on my machines. Works great for me.
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Originally Posted by mamagrande
(Post 7751860)
I have been quilting for over 20 yrs and was taught to stack masking tape several layers thick, be sure that the edges are straight, find the 1/4 inch and place the tape. 20 yrs later I still use that method..even if I have a quarter inch foot.
This is the method that worked best when I gave summer camp sewing lessons. Each student had a different machine so just adding tape worked just fine. These were children 8 - 12 yrs old. It was lots of fun we tied the comforters and I bound them on the machine.[ATTACH=CONFIG]567005[/ATTACH] |
Or you can use a stack of "post-it" notes at the 1/4". Pull off the bottom one when it no longer sticks. This is how I have taught children. And just a reminder as I used to tell the children. Watch where the fabric feed along the guide. The needle is not going anywhere, just up and down but the fabric needs to feed accurately.
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Fantastic diagram Jan in VA! Thank you.
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I marked the quarter inch measurement on the long side of a 3" x 5" index card, then put my needle down through center of the line (no thread), and used the edge of the card as a template to draw a line with a permanent marker right on the bed of the machine. It does fade with time and use, so I draw it again as needed. I do extend the line past the needle position to avoid the "cut corner" problem I seem to have at the end of seams. Works great.
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Originally Posted by Bearpawquilter
(Post 7752349)
A true 1/4" seam is too big and doesn't allow for the space taken by thread and folding. Another thing that has helped is using thinner thread. When I started using Aurifil 50 wt. thread for piecing, the clouds parted and the sun came out!
I made a strip set of seven different fabrics, then cut them up into squares. I should have gotten three squares out of WOF strips, but they were too short. Because of the scant seam, the squares were a little bigger. Those squares (two squares and a short one) are still sitting in my sewing room. I haven't the heart to try to figure it out. I could sew each seam on the two of them just a little closer to 1/4 inch. Then at least I could use them with the rest of the quilt . . . . when I get back working on the rest of the quilt. |
Originally Posted by maviskw
(Post 7753807)
You have that so right. But sometimes you have to be really careful about getting the 1/4 in too scant.
I made a strip set of seven different fabrics, then cut them up into squares. I should have gotten three squares out of WOF strips, but they were too short. Because of the scant seam, the squares were a little bigger. Those squares (two squares and a short one) are still sitting in my sewing room. I haven't the heart to try to figure it out. I could sew each seam on the two of them just a little closer to 1/4 inch. Then at least I could use them with the rest of the quilt . . . . when I get back working on the rest of the quilt. |
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